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Clutch Roll Pin Replacement

h_____

New member
Well Minty is back on the road - here's how (as promised).

First how do you know if you have this problem? Well if you press the clutch pedal, and the slave cylinder shaft doesnt move, likelihood is your roll pin has broken. (you will need the pedal board off to check this.

Part number  N 0235511 (mine cost 67p so I bought 2![:D] I felt guilty having the free cup of coffee)

Here's what you do.

1) Remove the floor pan/board (or if you have a RS carpet, well...you can work that bit out.).  My floor board is secured by 3 x M5 hex holts
2) Remove the small ball-joint securing clip on the back of the throttle linkage, where it secures to the throttle pivot.  To do this, reach behind the pedal, feel down the rod, and flick the clip around, it will now pull up and out.
3) pop the ball joint of the throttle linkage off.
4) Now you can see all 3 screws securing the pedal board (as one is hidden by the accelerator pedal. Unscrew these 3 screws (philips, with washers)
5) Remove pdeal board
6) Remove brake linkage clip, and take linkage off the pivot 
7) Remove clutch linkage clip and take linkage off the pivot.
8) Undo 2* 13mm nuts securing clutch master cylinder
9) Pull down the connector for the brake light switch
10) Remove ball joint clip on the throttle -> throttle cable joint, push cable ball joint connector off.
11) Remove 4x 13mm nuts (and washers) that hold assembly to floor pan.
12) Lift assmebly forward and up (to clear studs), if tight remove throttle pedal (2 x 11mm nuts)
With whole assembly on the bench
13) Remove the clip on the clevis pin, that secures the clutch linkage to the clutch spring., and remove clevis pin.
14) Slide clutch pedal assembly out of shaft, and remove spring linkage.
15) Remove reminants of Roll pin, and clean holes.
16) Grease and reinsert clutch pedal mechanism, and attach spring linkage on the end.  Align the holes.
17) Tap new roll pin in (A Birmingham Screwdrive may assist here [:D])
18) Ensure roll pin is visible to the same extend from both sides.
19) Assembly is the reverse of removal (Always wanted to put that!)

Its worth cleaning the general area, and regreasing the other bushes on the pedal assembly at the same time.  During reassembly, dont forget to ensure that all the clips are put back on correctly.  The clutch pedal height can be adjusted by the long screw, with a small (4mm hex bolt) that is secured in the white spring carrier.  Be careful not to move the clutch slave cylinder too much when lining backup, as it is attached to a solid pipe.

Thats it! I have some pics to follow
 
after a trackday or when engine/box gets hot sometimes my pedal sticks down about about 20mm,which can be pulled up with foot, only happens sometimes,have changed master cyl,and slave,clutch aint that old either...is this my problem also?
sounds straight foward,is this the revised pivot thingy?
 
hummm, I'm not sure. Unlikely to be heat related in the pedal box. Sounds more likely to be a fluid issue (although not sure on that either). I cant see how once the roll pin issue manifests itself, it can go away again.

someone with more knowledge will be along in a minute.
 
thats what i thought,have bled the entire system,might be dodgy slave me thinks

what happens when the pin problem starts?
 
Sounds like a dodgy slave and/or hydraulic pipe to me. Had the same problem a few years back. Changed both and had no problems since. (Probably spoken too soon!)

Martin

 
For me the pedal drops a bit at first, as a bit of give occurs in the pivot, but then the pin breaks up. Pedal goes to the floor - game over!
 
Thanks for the write-up Hugh. It's now added to the '964RS Hints & Tips' stickie thread at the top of the 964RS forum.
 
yea was thinking of changing both again,i have replaced slave hose with braided,had one of these leak already on my brakes maybe same problem

so who runs braided or standard brake and slave hoses?

and again thanks for the write up,very good
 

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