Clutch stalve cylinder

[sawood12]

I knew I had a leak in my clutch hydraulic system so at my recent service I asked for the specialist to keep a beady eye out for signs of a leak. He has reported that the leak is coming from the clutch master slave cylinder. It's not a big leak - maybe requiring topping up every 3 months or so, but I want to replace sooner rather than later. I've swotted up on this job in a few workshop manuals and it looks a real faff, especially the bit about bleeding the system.

Anyone done this before and is it as much of a faff as the manuals make the job out to be?

 

[Big Dave]

Dead easy job...
So long as its the SLAVE cylinder thats leaking...

Disconect the battery,
Remove the starter motor,, its easier with it out of the way...
You can now get to the slave cylinder...
Remove the 2 bolts holding it in place,,
remove the fluid pipe ,
+ hey presto its removed...
Obviously replacement is the reverse...

Apart from bleeding the system....
Ive got a Power bleeder from the US....
Its easy peasy with that....
But without it can be a real pain without....

PS bleed it b4 replacement of the starter...
Oh + i did mine on a 2 post ramp,, so if your on axle stands it could be a pain.....
I did this on Saturday so its still fresh in my mind...

 

[berg944]

Master cylinder also easy .

Mike[:'(]

 

[Fen]

Replace both if you're doing it - the parts are cheap enough and you know it's good after bleeding it rather than have to do the other one in a few months. In terms of bleeding I remember that there was a lot of it went on with my Turbo but I was just pedal pusher so I don't really know what was going on underneath.

 

[sawood12]

The manuals i've read goes on about using a bleeder like the power bleeder. Would it be the same type that you can get to bleed brake systems?

It pains me that the alternator needs removing. I've done this already this year and it's a real pain in the backside on a Turbo with A/C.

 

[Guest]

yep. same bleeder. you have to use a power bleeder as the line comes up from the master and over it, then down to the slave. potentially as the line is higher, this leaves you an air pocket unless you use the powerbleeder. the fluid for the clutch system is actually in the same reservior, so if your bleeder fits that....... whatever you do though, clamp the hose at the slave when you disconnect it. the last thing you want is for all the fluid to drain leaving you a potential problem of having to bleed the brakes too! (it shouldn't be possible, but rather safe than sorry...)

you may have to remove the starter heatshield to get to the slave, but that's not a PITA (of course unless bolts are cruddy and siezed!). I don't see how the alternator needs removing. It's miles away!.... ?

 

[Fen]

The fluid is not in the same reservoir in a RHD 944; that's a LHD thing like the front-mounted battery.

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

The manuals i've read goes on about using a bleeder like the power bleeder. Would it be the same type that you can get to bleed brake systems?

It pains me that the alternator needs removing. I've done this already this year and it's a real pain in the backside on a Turbo with A/C.

It isn't the alternator that needs removing, it's the starter motor. It's dead easy.

As for bleeding it. That's dead easy, as long as you have an assistant to push the pedal for you.

I've never found any of the super automatice bleeding systems that have ever done a proper job. All you do is get a brake bleeding kit from Halfords. It consists of a flexible tube that you attach to the bleed nippel, and a pot to collect the oil in.

The procedure is:
1. Attach the pipt to the nipple.
2. Loosen the nipple about 1/4 turn and shout "ON". Your assistant plants his/her foot on the clutch and keeps it there.
3. Tighten the nipple again and shout "OFF". Your assistant removes his/her foot from the clutch.
Repeat 2 and 3 (periodically topping up the clutch fluid) until you're just getting clean fluid with no air bubbles in coming out of the pipe.
4. Chech that the nipple is fully tight, remove the bleed pipe and check the fluid level.

The whole job is so simple, a child could do it.

 

[Big Dave]

WHY would you want to remove the alternator.???? OR have "we" got mixed up .???...

Regarding the Power bleeder.. Its possibly THE best tool ive bought for the car...
Its SO easy to use ...
Especially when doing the brakes...
Just fill the chamber with fluid, presurize the system + go round the whole car cracking the "nipples"....Its a one man job....No brainer realy....
Never had any problems with it...?????

 

[dlknight]

Here here []

Power Bleeder is a most useful product - I've used it twice now on my car and never had spongy brakes using this method. My brakes feel better than ANY car I have driven pedal is very firm needing almost no pressure to apply. Mind you I also have ATE Super Blue Racing fluid which maybe a contributing factor []

Cheers

Dave K.

 

[9xx]

Instructions for the job:

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/clutch-04.htm

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/clutch-02.htm

I changed both of them and it wasn't that difficult. At first I had problems bleeding it but I slept it over and managed to do it properly the next day. I'm sure that the Power Bleeder is very good but it is not necessary. For example patient female companion behind the steering wheel will help (pushing the clutch pedal). []

 

[berg944]

All you do is get a brake bleeding kit from Halfords. It consists of a flexible tube that you attach to the bleed nippel, and a pot to collect the oil in.

Thats how I did mine.

I did it on my own without much trouble but it would be easier and a lot quicker with 2 people.

Mike[:'(]

 

[pauljmcnulty]

To correct the previous posts, the slave cylinder on my Lux failed 2 days after I bought it. Replacement is as follows....

1 - Obtain new part from German and Swedish. Return part as wrong.

2 - Now at work, so send Jane to buy part with c. £45.00. Return numerous missed calls while she is sitting in their "showroom", finally get right part and book session with Relate.

3 - Sunday morning, jack up front of car.

4 - Visit Halfrauds and buy low-slung jack

5 - Find that my head is too small to fit under car after Halfrauds jack is fully extended

6 - Flatten my head with hammer as is easiest option

7 - Remove the bolts that hold on the starter. Oh, yes, they were last touched by Herr Porsche Fitter in 1986 and won't move. Longer leverage is not an option as you are only just off the ground. Suggest hitting with a hammer, alternately bolt/head/bolt/head....

8 - Starter lands on your forehead

9 - Swap clutch cylinder over

10 - Replace starter

11 - Get out from under the car. This may take some time

12 - Bleed clutch hydraulics. Basically, persuade Jane that the new car will benefit from her pumping the pedal while I fiddle with the nipple.

13 - Back to Relate, as an emergency case

14 - Swear that all future repairs will involve a trip to Jon Mitchell......

Easy, isn't it?

 

[Big Dave]

Paul
Its easy peasy when the car is 7ft off the ground....[][][][][][] + its electricaly operated ramp....[][][]
Not that i mean to rub it in or nothing....[][][]