Clutch
- Thread starter 944Turbo
- Start date
My clutch is playing up, I thought it was hydraulics to start with as gears were difficult (impossible at times) to engage but hydraulics seem to be fine. There is sometimes a clonk from within the bellhousing when depressing the clutch and pedal feels wierd. Had it on a ramp and the round bit that the release arm pivots on is very rusty what does this run in? I vaguely recall hearing issues with this before.
If I keep driving will it do further damage. Car is parked up for now but need to decide whether to drive it back or call RAC tommorow,
Cheers,
Tony
If I keep driving will it do further damage. Car is parked up for now but need to decide whether to drive it back or call RAC tommorow,
Cheers,
Tony
Indi9xx
New member
Its possible from your description that the clutch fork fingers are cracking or bending. The other option is that it could be a faulty release bearing, they can wear so much that they are not tight enough to pull the clutch pressure plate fingers back enough to release the clutch. The other option, it could be the hydraulics, the only way to tell is to examine them. It may be worth changing the fluid, if it comes out black, its often a sign the seals in the master or slave have disintergrated. One last option, which does happen, is that it could be the spiggot bearing has rusted/seized.. this means whatever happens with the clutch, the torque tube keeps spinning relative to the crank/flywheel... thinking about it, if your car has been stood up a while, this could well be an option. You can take the engine out to change the clutch, but unless your planning an engine swap ;o) its easier to take out the gearbox and pull back the torque tube.
thanks Jon, It does come and go, with the engine off pumping the pedal it did sometimes go stiff and not all the way to floor then would clonk (from inside the bellhousing) and release. Am I likely to cause it any damage driving it? Not worried about bits that may already be failling but dont want to damage other bits. Tony
Indi9xx
New member
Hmm... sounds like the fork or release bearing then. If you drive it, the worst that would happen is that the fork which may have a crack will finally break... Additional damage would be possibly the slave cylinder over extending and the seals going west. But thats about all that could happen. If there is something wrong with the clutch, the only additional damage would be to whatever is already faulty. If you said it was slipping, then I would probably say do not drive it, as flywheels are getting harder to find used, a new one is expensive and a slipping clutch can knacker the flywheel.
Exeter OPC had 2 new flywheels in stock when I bought mine - and they only wanted 55 notes for them as well. Probably the other one is long gone now, but you never know. Also the flywheel is about the only bit of my engine below the head gasket that didn't have a hole in it so if anyone gets desperate I might have a spare in Devon as I think I got one on the race engine as well.
JamesO
New member
Sounds like a good idea although to do more than two cars in a weekend you would need a fair amount of space. I did mine in the spring and I would factor a day per car with two people working assuming you have every part including flywheel bolts, rear main seal, spigot bearing, exhaust hardware, gaskets and misc spare nuts/bolts. A good selection of tools go without saying A Transmission jack would be handy or possibly hire a workshop? I'm happy to help with a car but my back is screwed so unless its on a ramp not much help at all.
Diver944
Active member
Too late. We are doing Tony's tomorrow (and maybe Sunday if we are S.L.O.W [8|]) and will do mine later in the year. John it's good to hear that your Spec clutch has worn in now [
], I tried it once when you'd only done a few thosuand miles and it was pretty much off/on and nothing in between []
], I tried it once when you'd only done a few thosuand miles and it was pretty much off/on and nothing in between []
Would hope to be able to return the favour of all the help I have recieved so far, and I am a lot more knowledgeable now, Clutch is out and centre was knackered all of the smaller centre springs had escaped and bits were loose - many had been for quite a while I think - its rattled for as long as I can remember. Just reassembly to go then Tony
Indi9xx
New member
Paul, I think the torque is just getting beyond what your clutch can take. When we decided to put the current clutch in there there wasnt much else worth using unless you wanted to build up massive leg muscles or put up with a juddering clutch. Since then there has been some developments for something much more suitable without the clutch being super heavy or juddering. If your interested, I can tell you what to buy and where from, and we will fit it for free!! With a promise that you can drop your car down one weekend and collect the following weekend garaunteed! Or if you want to stay in a B&B overnight, we would also be happy to do it over 2 days. We will also contribute towards the cost of the clutch for you It was always going to be a bit of development.
It was always going to be a bit of development.
Diver944
Active member
I may well take you up on that (later in the year when the piggybank has recovered [:-]). In the meantime LIL is absolutely fine at 0.8 bar boost and Tony had a drive of her yesterday and showed me that being just a little bit gentler with the throttle between 3000 rpm and 4000rpm can eradicate the slip at 1.0 bar and even 1.2 bar of boost. I couldn't help Tony with the installation today but I've just got off the phone to him and he's very nearly there now, just the CV joints, gear linkage and then exhaust to reconnect. I'm very much a basic DIY mechanic and it is a long, daunting process on a Turbo with lots of things to remove before you can get to the clutch but it is very much within the reach of two people working together and a good set of tools. Hopefully Tony will be on here before the end of the day to announce his success [
]
Well the clutch is about complete but I was just torquing up line from the fuel filter and I put a very little bit of pressure on the neighbouring return line, unfortuantely this gave way and split behind the clamp so now I need to repair fuel lines before I can start it up- oh dear I might have muttered. [] Still I suppose better to find it while I am still all oily than have it fail in a couple of months time.
] Still I suppose better to find it while I am still all oily than have it fail in a couple of months time.
Well after a quick visit to Jon on Monday morning to pick up a fuel line repair kit the car was back up and running. The clutch was much much much lighter than ever before and the biting point is now somewhere near the floor. One side effect I had not expected was the smoothness. For as long as I can remember I have had a vibrition at 3000 rpm but even at idle it was much smoother. I guess I shouldnt really be suprised I guess 9 springs and other assorted bit and bobs falling to the low point of the flywheel each time the engine stopped was not good for flywheel balance. There was nothing really complicated about the change, there are some very awkward fixings to get too, the earth on top of the bellhousing, the speed and reference sensor, some of the exhaust fixings onto the torque tube. A selection of extensions and wobbles, UJ's. Also hex star and torx bits for various fixings. Had to remove the sensors mounting bracket to get the bellhousing off - neither the clarkes guide or the workshop manual mentioned this. Removing a couple of the nine pressure plate bolts was a pain as they are very shallow and soft (new ones a V good idea) I ended up drilling down the centre (6mm) and banging in a torx bit, they then came out easily. It is easier with a pit (luckily we dug when when we rebuilt my mums garage) or a ramp and with an assistant - Thanks! Tony
Diver944
Active member
Phew - I was beginning to worry you hadn't got it going yet [8|] I wonder just how long those springs had been falling out? Sounds like it might have been a while if you have had that vibration for so long. The idle smoothness is an unexpected side effect of a new clutch []
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