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Cold running

F

Frazerb

New member
Hi,

Slight problem with the Cab S2 when really cold so any ideas really welcome. The car always starts really well and never cuts out, but when running cold is sometimes gives the feeling it "misses" a stroke. There is not consistant but does require a run for 20 mins then a restart to clear it. This happens in all gears but when driving if it happens and I then floor it the car picks up immediately and it never happens while accelerating hard. Generally happens at steady speeds

My first course of action is a thought to replace the plugs and leads. I am not really sure when this was last done and there is no mention of this in the past three years (4000 miles). What do you think?

Also if I was to do this where and what should I buy in the way of plugs and leads. I drive the car at the weekend only (this will change in the summer however!!!) and will never take this car on the track.

So as usual comments and advise really welcome and thanks in advance for this.

FB

 
S2's eat distributor caps, rotor arms (1/2 the rate of cap), and spark plugs. This took me 2 or 3 years to learn since a couple of specialists had said the car was fine when it really wasn't. I guess that most S2's have poor ignition and or fueling components and hence don't run as well as they should so the expected state of the car is not as it should be. You can tell when these components are fresh, the engine spins from like a hair dryer. I am not kidding! I can rest my hand on the cam cover and it feels like holding a hair dryer as the engine spins up past 3K. There should be no roughness whatsoever.

IMHO the plugs are shot by about 10K so I decided several years ago to forget about 12K intervals and do the main service every 10K and replace the cap at 20K or rather to replace the cap and rotor every 3 years or so (I only do maybe 3K to 6K a year now).

I have never replaced the leads, IMHO a lot of ppl waste money on new leads when there is nothing wrong with the leads. Measure the resistance with your multimeter along each one, if one of em is way out then it is definitely bad. Can't remember if the workshop manual has a spec on em.

One last point is the idle control or bypass valve. Mine is shot so the car has a habit of misfiring up to about 2K rpm when cold but this quickly clears and is not a problem if I just drive off rather then let the car idle or rev it gently a couple of times.
 
Thanks Neil for this. I think I will call Berts today and order a new cap, arm and a set of plugs. I am sure this will solve the problem.

Thanks again for the help.

FB
 
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