Ok new problem. In this cold weather my heater is taking over 20 minutes to get even Luke-warm now, even though the temp gauge is up within 5 or 6 minutes. Anyone else experiencing this? Plus now when I start it in the morning it is really chugging so that when i rev, it is chugging as I rev - if that makes sense. As I said before, after leaving for 7 or 8 mins it is smooth again.
Cold weather.
- Thread starter the_dr38
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robwright
New member
I was going to post something similar although my heater is working it definately was struggling more in the icey cold this morning. My theory is that as my thermostats haven't been changed in well ever as far as I know my engine is actually running colder than it should be. Consequently the coolant in the heat exchanger will be colder than was originally intended. Debate anyone??? In the same vane does anyone know why hot air usually comes out of my centre vent but occasionally it goes colder whilst the other vents remain nice and hot. Some kind of voodoo or something I don't know???
robwright
New member
It's not that it doesn't get warm it's just struggling more than usual. The cooling system had a good overhaul when I did my turbo. All good deionised water (thanks to work) and a 50/50 phosphate free antifreeze mix. I think I will have to +1 myself about the thermostats. Another job for the new year then. Does it ever end???? [8D]
Another strange thing, always been like this too. When I press the full blast button it is toasty warm but then when I turn this off and switch it to speed 4 on the dial it is less powerful and cooler. and guess what...
I went downstairs last night and MY FAN WAS STILL ON!!!!!! I thought I'd sorted this one. My temp gauge went up very high and very quickly. even though the engine could never have warmed up that quick and it felt freezing when I lifted the bonnet. Cant think what is going on
I went downstairs last night and MY FAN WAS STILL ON!!!!!! I thought I'd sorted this one. My temp gauge went up very high and very quickly. even though the engine could never have warmed up that quick and it felt freezing when I lifted the bonnet. Cant think what is going on
Diver944
Active member
Ah - this points to one of the HVAC sensors having failed. The full blast Demist button overrides the HVAC and delivers full heat to the windscreen vents no matter what other vents are open.
www.clarks-garage.com has a good explanation of the system but mine had a similar problem many years ago and it was the sensor that reads the outside temperature. It had failed and the HVAC system thought it was a hot day outside so hardly mixed in any warm air from the matrix. This sensor is by the fan inlet under the bonnet, it's the 5cm cylindrical rod by the metal grille in this picture. I'll have a reciept at home with the part number but IIRC it has the number stamped on it too
There are two other sensors for the HVAC, one is at the end of the flexi pipe beind the small circular vent by the cigar lighter, the other is at the back of the twin dash vents
Slighty OT but it is cold and now there is a blizzard outside. Looking forward to an empty car park [
]
]Thanks for the replies. As I continue to investigate.....................................
I filled up my water tank about a week ago and tonight when I looked it was quite empty so I filled up again, went 5 minutes down the road and the heater was nice and warm so that was obviously why I wasnt getting any heat. When I stopped again to top up with anti-freeze I notice that the water level had sunk again. I cant see any obvious leaks and hope it isnt my head gasket. I lifted the oil cap to see if there was any creamy solution and there was a slight pinky coloured matter, only minimal amounts on the underside of the cap. I wonder if I have a Head Gasket about to need replacing? Would it run differently if this was the case? Surely if the water was mixing with the oil then it wouldn't happen that quick?
I filled up my water tank about a week ago and tonight when I looked it was quite empty so I filled up again, went 5 minutes down the road and the heater was nice and warm so that was obviously why I wasnt getting any heat. When I stopped again to top up with anti-freeze I notice that the water level had sunk again. I cant see any obvious leaks and hope it isnt my head gasket. I lifted the oil cap to see if there was any creamy solution and there was a slight pinky coloured matter, only minimal amounts on the underside of the cap. I wonder if I have a Head Gasket about to need replacing? Would it run differently if this was the case? Surely if the water was mixing with the oil then it wouldn't happen that quick?
JamesO
New member
Could be the headgasket, a sniffer test may tell.
You will see some condensation on the filler cap this time of year anyway though.
Is the coolant brown? The other common issue causing coolant/oil mix are the oil cooler seals or matrix, as the 8 valve cars use an oil to water cooler.
The Head gasket is not a bad job on these cars. If it was a choice between the two I would prefer head gasket.
You will see some condensation on the filler cap this time of year anyway though.
Is the coolant brown? The other common issue causing coolant/oil mix are the oil cooler seals or matrix, as the 8 valve cars use an oil to water cooler.
The Head gasket is not a bad job on these cars. If it was a choice between the two I would prefer head gasket.
mik_ok
New member
If you are lucky.....running low on water and effectively suck in air can create airlocks which may - as they are "exhausted" from the system - cause your freshly filled expansion tank to empty again.
I'm afraid it does sound likely to be early HG failure symptoms to me though. []
I'm afraid it does sound likely to be early HG failure symptoms to me though. [
]Any ideas how much a HG job is? If it seems like I'm going to throw money at this car, fixing one problem after another, especially with majors, then I may just jack it in early, especially as I was only keeping it for a short while before upgrading. Would be good to see 6 months out of it though []
]
robwright
New member
If it was HG I am sure you would be noticing other symptoms. Low power, overheating etc. I would exhast everything else before deciding on HG. Try and find the water leak and defo get a sniff test done on your coolant. The kit to do it isn't that expensive IRRC. Hope your probs are trivial mate. In my experience I'll bet you have a water leak somewhere. The engine bay is that packed they can be hard to see though. Have you tried bleeding your cooling system to eliminate airlocks? Again pretty simple to do.
JamesO
New member
No idea what it would cost at a garage, it cant be that bad, the seal/gasket kit is around £100 so the rest is labour and it is just a fairly basic eight valve sohc engine. Probably cheaper than a modern eurobox labour wise.
I think it has been said before but these are 'classic' cars which either means big bills on occasion if looked after all their life or a money pit if not. Unless you dont mind getting oil under the fingernails and even then it can get spendy (£300 water pump).
I think it has been said before but these are 'classic' cars which either means big bills on occasion if looked after all their life or a money pit if not. Unless you dont mind getting oil under the fingernails and even then it can get spendy (£300 water pump).
robwright
New member
Don't know how much you paid for her but if she is a goodun and you look after her she will look after you. Remember they are just about classics now so if they are tidy shouldn't depreciate. Well at least not too much anyway. Also rememer that unavoidable repair bills for a classic car are invariably less per year than the depreciation of a brand new people box!!!
some moisture in the oil is not uncommon at this time of year, when topping up the coolant it is important to bleed it correctly. The coolant caps can get weak springs and hardened seals, if you can get a container on the overflow pipe from the header tank this will fill if the coolant is escaping here. It is quite rare for a standard car to lose a HG. Other coolant leaks can be hard to spot, do you have the hard pipe that runs above the exhaust manifold this sometimes goes to pinholes which spray onto the manifold and the coolant evaporates almost immediately.
Tony
Tony
Another thing to bear in mind ... if I fill the header tank of my S2 to the 'Max' mark, it will push the water out to just about the 'Min' mark, and then stop. It always has done it, and seems fine.
Yours may be doing something similar. Does the level carry on dropping once it has reached the 'Min' mark?
Oli.
Yours may be doing something similar. Does the level carry on dropping once it has reached the 'Min' mark?
Oli.
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