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Compression test results

Jacob

New member
I have had a few problems with my car recently and booked in a compression test with my MOT.
I was expecting the worst and got these results:

1: 150
2: 150
3: 160
4: 170
5: 170
6: 160

These look pretty good (would be better if they were a little closer together).

I had budgeted 3k for a top end re build over the winter, now I'm wondering what to spend the money on............
 
Don't you need to do a leakdown test as well to see where you are losing compression from? A skilled mechanic can hear where the compression is lost and determine if its top end or rings.

If you want suggestions for spending money, I am full of them. Suspension has been probably the most rewarding area for me. What do you use the car for? Fast road? Track days?

RB
 
I was told that there was slight wear to the rings, but nothing to cause me any concern. I should have done a leakdown test at the same time, but never thought to ask.

I use the car for fast road use primarily and I have definitely been bitten by the track day bug.
I have so much more to learn about my car and my own skills to get my times down before I need to get 'more power' (although that would be nice!)
I have a few performance mods, but nothing substantial. My first initial thought yesterday was to upgrade my exhaust system to the same as yours, loads of really good reviews on Pelican and that sound.......[:D]
 
Best bang for buck improvement for light track use is probably 930 rear torsion bars, make sure bushings and shocks are good, track alignment and corner balance plus 7/8x16s with R-compounds. You would need race pads and some cool air ducting to keep the pedal firm for more than a few laps but then you have a car that driven well can hang with 964s, Boxster S etc. Not much other than GT3s will come past you in a hurry.

Two words of warning on the exhaust. First its too loud for most track day noise limits, so you have to sort that issue - a 2-in 1-out may just be ok. Second you need to budget for the SW chip or remapping to get the best from the exhaust. I think 245hp is acheivable if you budget on a couple of dyno runs - one to get the AFRs to send to SW and the other to test the new chip. The next step is cams. If you do 964 cams without doing the top-end you might get 250hp+ for a very reasonable price. I think 3.8 Supercup cams warrant the protection of valve springs and Ti retainers (plus rod-bolts if you can) - which starts to get expensive - because they love the revs, but you could just drop them in.

While I love my engine (and its not right yet - pulled apart again next week!) and don't regret spending the money for what is to most intents and purposes a new, bulletproof, 7,000+rpm motor, I think taking weight from the car makes a more dramatic difference than 15 or 20 hp. You really notice the lack of weight in the way the car picks up from 3000-4000rpm which is where the 3.2s are weak(ish) and where you find yourself all too often with the relatively long std gears.

Just my $0.02 - happy to discuss offline some time.

RB

RB
 
I think 245hp is acheivable if you budget on a couple of dyno runs - one to get the AFRs to send to SW and the other to test the new chip.

Agreed - and if it isn't clear already, do all the mods prior to the RR / AFR readings. Dont do a re-map, then add exhaust as it will have an effect of the AFR. SW has gotten my AFR perfect (literally) using this method.

Also, check the recent post by CS_SP on AFM / Cylinder head temp sensor, and perhaps treat yourself to an injector clean out.

Fact is that the biggest "free" HP you can make on a 3.2 is to lose weight from it (as per RB) - It's quite tail heavy so look carefully at everything behind you.

Mine was raced in it's early life and has all the sound deadening removed - great for noise, bad for "I think I can hear a noise and wonder what it is..." [&:]

Good luck

S
 
ORIGINAL: Richard Bernau

Best bang for buck improvement for light track use is probably 930 rear torsion bars, make sure bushings and shocks are good, track alignment and corner balance plus 7/8x16s with R-compounds.

How much of a difference will that make to the handling and characteristics of the car. It's an upgrade I have never considered before. Would you also recommend a front strut brace?
 

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