Correct jacking method, if you know what I mean........

[Hilux]

I love doing my own mechanical work..............

I have pondered how to safely lift these cars and see that the sill spoilers get in the way of a standard jack. Also I will want to lift front and back seperately rather than tilt to one side.

I`ve researched and found this adapter for a standard car jack

and am thinking of getting a second hand one of these

there`s a couple on e-bay

Is it correct that provided you lift on all four of the `corner` jacking points there is no damage to the car? I assume the bent floorpan/sticking throttle syndrome is caused by lifting the whole car from either of the front jacking points only.

Where can I get the adapters that fit the front and rear jacking points?

Thanks in advance...............



Paul

 

[Fen]

I've always jacked under the castor mounts at the front or under the shock mount on the rear arms at the back.

That top thing looks way wobbly to me somehow.

 

[Diver944]

If you just want to jack one side then use the jacking point half way along the sill (under the diamond indentation). Because of the 50/50 weight balance, both wheels will lift up perfectly. Then just place axle stands under the fore and aft supports for safety.

The only axle stand point to worry about is the front driver side (because of the accelerator issue you mentioned). The other three points are fine for jacking

 

[Hilux]

Understood all, thanks.................

but

I intend to go over the car completely this winter, fuel/brake line replacement, lose the cat etc etc and want the car off the floor at a workable height (my previous westy/ginetta etc were easily stripped bare and the chassis lifted up and down by hand)

I presume that in a garage on a four or two post lift the four corner points are where its supported and jacked from? I`ll ring a Porsche garage methinks.............

That top thing looks way wobbly to me somehow.

Its actually getting it under the car that is the issue, using it would be the same as lifting a car using its axle, the axle becomes the beam anyway and the wheels still on the ground mean it cant topple.

 

[Fen]

ORIGINAL: Hilux

That top thing looks way wobbly to me somehow.

Its actually getting it under the car that is the issue, using it would be the same as lifting a car using its axle, the axle becomes the beam anyway and the wheels still on the ground mean it cant topple.

I thought that later after I posted actually so I guess I can see that. I hadn't thought of the problem getting it under though. At one point my Turbo was in my garage on 4 axle stands and I think I did that a corner at a time using the rear arm and castor mount as jacking points. I don't remember where I put the stands but I think it was the front crossmember (remember it had no engine fitted though) and the rear torsion tube mounts. With sufficiently high stands you could do the same but you might have to go around twice rather than take it really high on one corner at a time.

The other thing you posted with the Cobra on it might be OK but it's difficult to see how it works from the pic.

 

[Guest]

You could use this method (see pic)
Or click HERE and scroll down to the Startrooper lady[] May be of some use?

 

[sawood12]

In the workshop manual it shows the workshop jacking (i.e. the proper lifts garages have with the large diameter flat rubber pads) points to be in-board of the corner points which aren't actual jacking points but can be used. You might be able to use these with the device you pictured at the start of your thread. By the way you can also get these from screw fix direct for about £40. They look good but I struggle gettng my jack under the car without adding to it's height.

I have used the corner points for jacking before with no drama's but am extra carefull with the drivers side after reading about the sticky throttle problem.