The opinion of experienced forum members here to potential new owners is generally pay 5-6K for an excellent car rather than 2-3k for a car with a lot of potential trouble. I chose to test this hypothesis mainly because I did not want a concours car as it was bought only as a track day project, but also I wanted the pleasure of polishing up a shabby car. I reason that I would rather do the work or get the work done myself on an old car because at least I would know for sure what I was dealing with.
So...........
I bought an '89 S2 with no log book or service history and 185,000 miles on the clock. It had been through 7 owners, with the seller only having 9 months of ownership and no real use of the car. So I had to go on my own knowledge. I had genned up on what to look for (this forum, TIPEC and Rennlist are a mine of information) and deliberately driven cars from the top and bottom of the price range. So when I found 'my' car, I was reasonably confident that, although near the lower end of the price range, it generally OK given that I would be spending money on it to make it fit for my purpose.
The car was mine for 2K. I did some work myself where possible
Essential expenditure to get the car safe and reliable (all costs inclusive):
Belts/idlers/camchain + slippers = £430
Filters and sundry service items = £86
Clutch master cylinder = £80
Promax Ignition tune up (leads, cap, rotor plugs) = £184
Koni Sport shock absorbers = £582
Battery £63
Labour = £350
TOTAL = £1775
So, for under £4k I have a car that I know will go well and reliably.
Other costs to 'personalise' the car for track work include:
Race Seats and harnesses £195 (off fleabay, self fitted).
Spax front lowering springs £126
Toyo T1R tyres £324
So now, for £4420 I have a track day ready car where I KNOW that all the essential bits are new so I can have full confidence in it.
Probable costs in near future.
Sill outer panel cosmetic repairs (inners are OK on direct inspection)
Clutch. I have no idea how old the current one is. It seems to be working just fine at the moment.
I am not really worried about these potential hidden costs as I know they are far less than the cost of depreciation on a new(er) vehicle so I will put money aside in lieu.
I enjoy fiddling with the other 'faults' a car like this carries with it. So far, I have restored to life the courtesy light, the rear window defrost, the handbrake light, the windscreen washers, the sticky headlamp, the leaky waterpump hose, the minging carpets. Having a tussle with the rear hatch operating mechanism (WHY has the key operated microswitch decided to cash in its chips?....fuse is OK!).
Key element is I am having fun and have really got to know a cheap performance car that is built by hand so can be repaired...by hand.
So...........
I bought an '89 S2 with no log book or service history and 185,000 miles on the clock. It had been through 7 owners, with the seller only having 9 months of ownership and no real use of the car. So I had to go on my own knowledge. I had genned up on what to look for (this forum, TIPEC and Rennlist are a mine of information) and deliberately driven cars from the top and bottom of the price range. So when I found 'my' car, I was reasonably confident that, although near the lower end of the price range, it generally OK given that I would be spending money on it to make it fit for my purpose.
The car was mine for 2K. I did some work myself where possible
Essential expenditure to get the car safe and reliable (all costs inclusive):
Belts/idlers/camchain + slippers = £430
Filters and sundry service items = £86
Clutch master cylinder = £80
Promax Ignition tune up (leads, cap, rotor plugs) = £184
Koni Sport shock absorbers = £582
Battery £63
Labour = £350
TOTAL = £1775
So, for under £4k I have a car that I know will go well and reliably.
Other costs to 'personalise' the car for track work include:
Race Seats and harnesses £195 (off fleabay, self fitted).
Spax front lowering springs £126
Toyo T1R tyres £324
So now, for £4420 I have a track day ready car where I KNOW that all the essential bits are new so I can have full confidence in it.
Probable costs in near future.
Sill outer panel cosmetic repairs (inners are OK on direct inspection)
Clutch. I have no idea how old the current one is. It seems to be working just fine at the moment.
I am not really worried about these potential hidden costs as I know they are far less than the cost of depreciation on a new(er) vehicle so I will put money aside in lieu.
I enjoy fiddling with the other 'faults' a car like this carries with it. So far, I have restored to life the courtesy light, the rear window defrost, the handbrake light, the windscreen washers, the sticky headlamp, the leaky waterpump hose, the minging carpets. Having a tussle with the rear hatch operating mechanism (WHY has the key operated microswitch decided to cash in its chips?....fuse is OK!).
Key element is I am having fun and have really got to know a cheap performance car that is built by hand so can be repaired...by hand.