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Cycling Valve Question

robwright

robwright

New member
Following a recent post by sulzeruk I got to thinking. If you have a dual port wastegate fitted can you simply delete the cycling valve. As far as I know it now has no function in my car. Is it simply a case of removing the pipes and plug connector, plugging the pipes that are left for good measure and be done or is there more to it than that? If it can be removed without effecting the car I think I will get rid of mine. If that was the case then Alisdair you can have my old one when I take it out. If you still need it that is mate.
 
The cycling valve lives under the manifold and should be bypassed when you have an MBC/DPW

If you want to remove it, the metal lines are connected to the metal crankcase breather pipe - that all comes out in 1 piece I believe. You just run a longer hose back to the AOS.

When I had the DPW fitted I left the cycling valve in - just not connected at all.
 
Thanks Ed I thought there may be more to it than that. Are you saying that the inlet manifold will probably have to come off to do the job? I am familiar with the metal pipework you describe. Had most of the top end off when I changed the turbo.
 
That's how I understand it - didn't do it myself, ph sporstcars did it with a couple of other jobs for me. You can see in this pic the lines were just left open & it worked fine. You can see the MBC mounted up by the clutch fluid reservoir.

engine.jpg


AFAIK the cycling valve is connected to the KLR and forms part of the factory boost control system. You're bypassing this when using an MBC/EBC anyway.
 
Yeah that's how I understand it Ed. I don't think it has any other function??? The silver device with the pipes connected behind the bonnet catch. Is that your oil catch can? I was thinking about fitting one of these.
 
That's right - you can pick them up off ebay reasonably cheap. Finding a place to locate them is a bit more difficult. I made up a mount from 2 bits of the oil cooler mounting strips I had left over. Not pretty but it worked ( I think - used to get a bit of brown watery oil residue in the bottom). I still have it if you're interested - £15 + P&P

Something similar here

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RatSport-Alloy-Oil-Catch-Tank-Catch-Can-Fitting-Kit_W0QQitemZ120501275516QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item1c0e6f8b7c
 
Might be interseted in taking that of your hands Ed. Lol after crimbo though I think [:D] Might treat myself to a birthday pressie in January. Can't see the missus wanting to buy me something second hand and oily for my birthday.
 
Yes you absolutely have to bypass the cycling valve as it will interfere with the external boost controller function and you will risk dangerous overboosts. The cycling valve serves no useful function once you go DPW. ALot of people remove it and the associated pipework to simplify the engine bay and remove some opportunities for boost leaks.

 
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