Different Clutch Problem

[EddySpaghetti]

Hi,

I wrote a post a few weeks back describing the fact that I couldn't get anything but third gear. Basically the problem seemed to be a dragging clutch, because third gear was a fluke - I couldn't really engage / disengage any gear.

Since then I have changed the slave and master cylinders, and the flexi pipe from master cylinder to the solid pipe. I have also thoroughly cleaned out the reservoir and trimmed the short flexi from the reservoir to the master cylinder to cure a little bit of splitting which had appeared (but not yet made it past the jubilee clip.

The fluid in there was brown with rust, and I think I found a leak at the slave cylinder - basically both seemed well past their best.

Unfortunately I finshed the bleeding process last night and my 'fix' hasn't worked - I was able to go backwards and forwards a few times in first and reverse, then thought I'd brave a journey on the open road and before I had got to the kerb my first gear 'locked in' and reverse wouldn't engage - I had to turn the engine off to select the gears required to park up again. Shit, and I was suposed to be driving it to Scotland this weekend...

I am still hopeful that I don't need a replacement clutch, becasue the distance I had between the actuator arm and the front of the inspection housing was well below the 34 mm quoted in Clarks garage and the haynes manual - has anyone got any tips on what else this could be, or how I can check to make sure I have bled everything properly? - the fact that the fault occurs a couple of minutes after the last bleeding I have done suggests to me it isn't a collapsed clutch, but a problem with my bleeding technique?

I used an Eezibleed kit though - and thought I got the procedure correct? - do I need to cycle the clutch pedal while bleeding under pressure - that would kinda stop this being a one man process....

Thanks for any thoughts - I'm a bit distraught that I can't drive it this weekend, which means no visit to Alasdair in Bonnybridge, as well as the thought of having the clutch done....

Cheers,

Eddy

 

[u63af]

Eddy,
I think with the eezibleeds, you just open the bleed nipple enought for the fluid to come through and just leave it open. I always prefer just using a standard bleeding hose and do it with two people. You may just have some air in the system.

 

[robwright]

No need for pedal pumping with an eezibleed mate. Sounds like you did it fine.

 

[EddySpaghetti]

Yes - I have thought that in this case the Eezibleed may struggle because the bleed screw is about 2 feet lower than the top of the loop in the hose.

The trouble is I have let a lot of fluid pass through the system - I've collected about half a drinks can at the bottom, so I would have thought that could drive out the air.

In the Clarks guide it talks about filling the master cylinder before putting all the hoses together - have I missed something here - I thouhght the Eezibleed would ensure the whole system gets filled because it has the pressurized reservoir of fluid that gets driven into the 'on car' reservoir when you start thte process.

I'm still hoping this is a bleeding problem and not the clutch, so any novel bleeding advice would be very much appreciated!

On the plus side I have proven to myself that it is just possible to bleed the slave cylinder with the starter in place - though it certainly helps that I'm an amateur contortionist.

Cheers,

Eddy

 

[tref]

I believe that if the clutch wasn't bled correctly the clutch pedal would go to the floor and stay there (until you put your foot underneath it and flick it back up) - a function of the "overcentre" spring assitance.

 

[robwright]

That is exactly what it would do. If the pedal is firm and not spongy then it is bled correctly.

 

[EddySpaghetti]

I can't tell whether the pedal is firm to be honest - it doesn't feel as hard to push as it used to, but that could be my imagination, and I wouldn't call it spongy really.

Certainly not as firm as the brake pedal!

The biting point got closer to the floor before this happened, and is still quite low - I know this from when it worked temporarily last night. But I have adjusted the Master Cylinder clevis so that it is right at the end of its travel (ie only just stable on the thread of the Master Cylinder Rod) - So I think I have taken up all the slack I can there...

Hang on, have I adjusted it the wrong way? so that it isn't getting enough fluid from the reservoir and through the bore with each push???

Hmm, maybe that's one to try? Could I have adjusted wit hthe intention of taking up the slack and actually prevented the cylinder filling enough?

I also don't understand what's behind the fact that the pedal gets stuck down if there isn't fluid in the system - that confused me (and nearly cost me a finger) when I first emptied it...

 

[sulzeruk]

I use an air operated vacuum bleeder and you need to keep the pedal down to bleed it. Otherwise the relief port in the master cylinder is not exposed. They are a pain in the arse to bleed though on your own. Let me know how you get on Edd,
Alasdair

 

[DivineE]

It's been a while but just a thought, isn't there some adjustment on the pedal itself to allow you to set a little free play at the top? Could this adjuster have stripped/broken etc and be causing problems? If not maybe a mechanical failure of a clutch component rather than wear.

After changing my leaking master cylinder I used an easi bleed kit and although it wasn't entirely straight forward (I think it took some pedal pumping at the end) it worked fine. The clutch pedal definitely pings to the floor and then refuses to return to the top until the system is bled properly.

 

[zcacogp]

No helpful suggestions, but I hope you find the cause of the problem Eddy, and that the trip to Scotland is salvageable. To do all that work and be so close to making it work must be very distressing.


Oli.

 

[944_85]

A few months ago I replaced all the brake fluid in the car using the easi bleed kit. The old stuff coming out was also of the brown version and not clear.

For the brakes the easi bleed kit worked fine as a one man job. However for the clutch it was still a two man job. I assembled the easi bleed kit as you would do for the brakes, then had the wife push the clutch down, and then opened the bleeding nipple on the clutch slave. This worked fine for me, but it was definetely not a one man job for me.

Give this a shot, you can only hope that it does not need a new clutch. Unfortunately that is where I am today, as the rubber center is going on my clutch.

 

[JM1962]

When you bleed the slave cylinder it can get air trapped in it because of the angle it sits at on the car and the position of the bleed nipple. I think if you bleed it before finally bolting it in position you can get all the air out.