I've bought some new hinge pins for my drivers side door but getting at the old pins to knock them out and knocking the new ones in looks tricky due to the lack of space, I suppose there's a tool that makes it easier but has anyone done this job without removing the whole door. I know the weld could be broken inside the door but it's worth replacing the pins first I thought.
Door hinge pins
- Thread starter pauly
- Start date
Mine too - on a 993.
The top pin is not completely home (I suspect they were removed in past to fix the "normal" 993 door-stay problem).
But I can't work out how to get at it to push it home.
I say this with the most extreme caution, but the method used for making doors fit in both the Jag factory and the RR factory in the 80's involved a length of 2"x2" timber, and holding the door half-open. You can guess the rest ...
I believe it works for sagged doors as well as for newly-fitted ones.
Oli.
I believe it works for sagged doors as well as for newly-fitted ones.
Oli.
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
That sounds a bit like what we witnessed at the Morgan factory. The way they bent the bonnets so that they fitted onto the body was incredibly crude, but clearly effective.
Dave Wilkinson
New member
Mark,
I wonder if the fact that the top hinge pin protrudes at the bottom is the reason you believe it's not fully home?? The top pin is actually inserted from the bottom and looks like it's not fully home when it actually is. I had mine all replaced when the car was repainted a couple of years ago and the new pins completely solved the dropped door syndrome. The pins are designed to wear in order to avoid having to replace the hinges.. Even if the pin were not driven fully home (unlikely) it wouldn't be the reason for the door dropping.
I seem to recall that the new pins were remarkably cheap and I suspect any decent bodyshop would change them for you in a few minutes.
Regards
Dave
I wonder if the fact that the top hinge pin protrudes at the bottom is the reason you believe it's not fully home?? The top pin is actually inserted from the bottom and looks like it's not fully home when it actually is. I had mine all replaced when the car was repainted a couple of years ago and the new pins completely solved the dropped door syndrome. The pins are designed to wear in order to avoid having to replace the hinges.. Even if the pin were not driven fully home (unlikely) it wouldn't be the reason for the door dropping.
I seem to recall that the new pins were remarkably cheap and I suspect any decent bodyshop would change them for you in a few minutes.
Regards
Dave
Paul,
One end of the wood resting on the sill, inside the door aperture. Middle of the wood under the door. Other end of the wood in your hand.
Pull upwards .... gently but firmly.
Peter - Morgans always struck me as being very crude cars anyway. But effective, yes! I suspect their bodybuilders are nearer to their 'coachcraft' roots then some. (Along with their counterparts on classic jag and RR production lines ... )
Oli.
One end of the wood resting on the sill, inside the door aperture. Middle of the wood under the door. Other end of the wood in your hand.
Pull upwards .... gently but firmly.
Peter - Morgans always struck me as being very crude cars anyway. But effective, yes! I suspect their bodybuilders are nearer to their 'coachcraft' roots then some. (Along with their counterparts on classic jag and RR production lines ... )
Oli.
Dave,
Thanks for that info - I have to visit a body shop to get my rear bumper resprayed - so I'll get the door pins sorted at same time.
Mark
Thanks for that info - I have to visit a body shop to get my rear bumper resprayed - so I'll get the door pins sorted at same time.
Mark
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