Door innards refurb

[pauljmcnulty]

Hi all,

Finally getting around to my doors, which were thrown back together after the respray as I intended to take the cards off and do some little jobs. 18 months later....[&:]

Few questions, as I only want to do this once.

Handles: What's the best thing to lubricate them after cleaning the old grease and muck out? They stick solid in winter, and are stiff even in this hot weather.

Vapour barriers: Are these available, or do you just buy a sheet of plastic and cut it out?

Speakers: the 6x4 ones. Best option without spending a fortune?

Any other jobs whilst I'm in there? Thinking of cleaning and lubricating all the window mechanisms and waxoyling the inside of the doors and clearing the drains.

 

[zcacogp]

ORIGINAL: pauljmcnulty
Handles: What's the best thing to lubricate them after cleaning the old grease and muck out? They stick solid in winter, and are stiff even in this hot weather.

Vapour barriers: Are these available, or do you just buy a sheet of plastic and cut it out?

Speakers: the 6x4 ones. Best option without spending a fortune?

Any other jobs whilst I'm in there? Thinking of cleaning and lubricating all the window mechanisms and waxoyling the inside of the doors and clearing the drains.

By Handles, do you mean the bit on the outside of the door? I'm a big fan of Bilt Hamber's Ferrusol - this stuff:

http://www.bilthamber.com/lubrication/ferrosol

It's easy to use and lubricates well (and smells nice!) It's the mutts nuts on the boot catches as well. Failing that, I'd use a good quality light oil once everything is nice and clean.

Vapour Barriers - I'd buy some builder's sheet and go from there; it'll be thicker, tougher and a lot, lot cheaper than the Porsche option (if you can even still buy them.) Not sure what to stick them on with around the edges, but you could do worse than glue gun glue, although others will have better suggestions I am sure.

Speakers - Alpine do good ones which won't cost a fortune. Beware though as not all will fit as the depth available is limited. It's also worth remembering that a cheap speaker that is well-fitted will always sound better than a badly-fitted expensive speaker. Also, if you have a fairly stock installation at the moment then you will do better spending your money on a small amplifier and some filtering capacitors than on new speakers.

Yes, clean and lubricate the window mechanisms and waxoyl everything in sight. Tidy up any loose wiring as it will prevent rattles. And check the operation of the locks and central locking servos as well; clean, lubricate, and tighten the fasteners.


Oli.

 

[bmnelsc]

ORIGINAL: zcacogp
...
Speakers - Alpine do good ones which won't cost a fortune. Beware though as not all will fit as the depth available is limited. It's also worth remembering that a cheap speaker that is well-fitted will always sound better than a badly-fitted expensive speaker. Also, if you have a fairly stock installation at the moment then you will do better spending your money on a small amplifier and some filtering capacitors than on new speakers.
...

Oli.

I thought Blaupunkt was the original supplier of speakers yet whilst repairing my window I found Sony speakers in my doors - sorry I didn't note the model number but I could get for you - email if you want them.
P.S. my car was originally delivered to Japan. It had a Sony head unit with an FM band that did not include North America. I'm guessing that the Japan delivery vehicles were "prepared for radio" or that the wiring harness was standard with 4 speaker radio and the importer (Mizwa) installed the head units and speakers.

As for plastic liner - I would follow Oli's suggestion. Spray glue is available and should work fine for sticking down the new stuff (apply sparingly). On mine - the foam outliners around the door handles were perished - I went to an upholstery shop and got a bit of black 3/4" foam, cut out the holes and stuck them to the plastic liner with spray glue. Door cards are nice and tight with no rattles or drafts.

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Great point about the foam bits. I guess anything is better than the 20-odd year old crumbs in there at the moment...

The vapour barrier is my biggest concern, apart from re-assembling it all if I take it apart! The original isn't glued on, so it's easy to peel areas back and re-stick if needed. Given that an original door card in good condition will probably cost £1000 in a few years, I'd rather it was protected. [8|]

What was the original plastic? Mine was falling off all over, but it seemed to be sticky-backed clear film that was removable, and would stick back on at least a couple of times.

Oh, Lord.... I've gone all Blue Peter when trying to maintain a Porsche! [&o]

 

[Kongsodoken]

Buy the original vapour barrier I did they are still available and cost about £15 each side

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Buy the original vapour barrier I did they are still available and cost about £15 each side

Any idea of the part number?

 

[Kongsodoken]

Don't trust these numbers it is confusing with RH/LH drive etc but I think this is correct

944 555 177 05
944 555 178 05

It is about 2 years since I did my doors I replaced everything Glass, seals, sound deadening and every nut/bolt clip etc
locks were cleaned and lubricated with lithium grease, door handles powdercoated etc,

I remember thinking what good quality the water shedders were, they are very thick and strong

tied to find some good pictures but this is the best I could do

 

[tref]

I used a 3M double-sided sticky-tape around the edge to hold the vapour barriers on - a lot easier than trying to spray glue onto the right places.