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Door Lock Barrel Removal

mik_ok

mik_ok

New member

I have an intermitantly sticky drivers door lock barrel. Tried a couple of WD-40 applications and it aint fixing the issue. Can make getting into the car a pain......

OPTION1

I therefore want to pop the barrel out and strip it down.

From the manual (thanks Rick) [:)] it appears to be :-

1. Door card removal ~ appears to be screws only. Can someone confirm there are no nasty "self-destruct" clips?

2. Internal "door pull" removal.

3. Window and rail removal. Can anyone confirm whether this is absolutely necessary? I'd obviously rather not if I can avoid it.

4. External handle removal.

I assume the barrel can then be removed from the handle (?)

Thanks in advance folks [:D]


OPTION 2

Can I buy a new barrel to match my existing key? I'd rather not change both doors and boot just 'cos of this issue.

If I currently had access to a computer other than my laptop I guess I could check PET myself via the disk that Mr Coull kindly sent. [&:]
 
I haven't checked Darren's link but:

Door card has a a few self destruct clips. There are 2 screws under caps front and back at the top, one behind the pull handle, loads along the bottom of the door card, 3(?) through the speaker pack (I think you have 10 speakers from memory) and 3 in the bottom of the door handle. The clips are down the back and front edges.

The exterior handle comes off without taking out the window mechanism I'm sure.

I think you can get a barrel to match your key but it might cost. It will also cost to replace all 4 locks though even from a breaker (remember the ignition) plus the fuel cap.

You could swap the passenger and driver's barrels over? Or have an alarm fitted with C/L activation on it?
 
Ooh - thanks Darren. very interesting link. [8D]

Cheers fen - will call the OPC tomorrow and chat about new barrel availability and cost. (I'd forgotten about the ignition and the petrol cap! DOH! ) [:)] A few quid for a new one that I KNOW will work vs stripping down and potentially knackering the old one and leaving the car lockless..... choices choices
 
If you get the handle off without removing the door card you might still struggle to get it back on as you have 2 rods to reconnect and it will be a bit like keyhole surgery - literally [;)]
 
hmmm. (insert rubbing-chin whilst pondering smiley)

Had a decnt look at Darren's link now :-

1. I reckon there is only one po-on rod, and the central locking connection. (?)

2. Since I don't need to remove the whole lock assy, I think I can leave the handle pretty much attached (or at least leave the central locking do-dah in place). I think i can bypass the "small pin" removal and just remove the screw to get the barrel out and leave the lock in place.

I'll plan for this ~ if I have to strip it further I can. And if everything goes "da-doiiiiiing" back inside the door....... I'll just remove the card! [:mad:] [:D]
 
On my original 924 I had a barrel failure. Travelling (Mobile!) locksmith arrived with a new pre-ordered barrel and altered it internally to fit my key - so they can be altered. Didn't cost over much IIRC - but it was three years ago and the bills travelled on with the car.

HTH

SteveS
 
£140 inc vat for a new handle assemly, with lock matched against my chassis number.

Minimum of 4 weeks delivery time.

Not sure what I'm doing at the mo. [&:]

Interesting comment re auto-locksmith....... hmmmm
 
Good post.....I am looking into fixing 968 handles next weekend.

I was going to buy the 968 kit but did not want the expence to find out they might not fit.

The Kit states 86 onwards, but the posts I have seen say all 924/944?

I dont know what year my doors/handles are, only one handle has logo.

I managed to get one new 968 handle (casting only) off ebay, will use this for experimental fitting.

If anybody can answer the following questions it will save me some time, if not I will post my findings.

- The 968 handle was sold as near side, does this matter (casting looks symetrical)?

- What 968 bits do I need other than gaskets? I think I will need the chrome bezel, and can file the casting to take the arm (Link from flamingeye)

Mike

 
£140 inc vat for a new handle assemly, with lock matched against my chassis number.
Click to expand...

There hopefully shouldn't be any need for you to get a new handle. Out of interest (and yes I know it seems blindingly obvious) have you tried using your spare key? Otherwise if it isn't the key, remove the handle and unscrew the barrel (this can be done fairly easily without removing the door cards, just don't 'lose' the bits you unclip inside the door). And remember to leave the key in the lock when you remove the barrel [:D]. Now you can see if any of the pins are standing out suspiciously. If one of them is, try removing the pin, reassembling the lock and see if it works okay. If it does, maybe the pin chamber(?) is gunged somehow or maybe you need a new pin, obtainable cheaply from locksmiths. Or you could leave the pin out for a marginally lower security lock...

Failing that, there is a fairly painstaking method whereby you remove all the pins, buy a new set and then install from scratch with the key in the barrel.

If none of this works (a good clean, lubrication and refit may be enough) I know I have a spare barrel & pins lying around somewhere so let me know if that would be any use.

Cheers
Dan


 
Berg944 I have a set of 968 handle to fit, not done it yet but taken a few peeks at it.

To sort of answer your questions, although the handles do have a L and a R on them, they do look the same in shape. The only difference seems to be (green arrow) the location of the pin. It would be on the other lug for the other side.
These lugs (red arrows) are the only difference, they are larger on the 968 handle and in the link this is referred to as being able to file them down.
As I have the arm already fitted (blue arrow) it would seem a shame to take it off and file it down. But the alternative is almost impossible as you have to operate inside the door popping ball links on and off.

587ABB90A8774ED6835AAF8C68406E14.jpg
 
ORIGINAL: danmason


Failing that, there is a fairly painstaking method whereby you remove all the pins, buy a new set and then install from scratch with the key in the barrel.

If none of this works (a good clean, lubrication and refit may be enough) I know I have a spare barrel & pins lying around somewhere so let me know if that would be any use.

Cheers
Dan
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan ~ new pins option sounds very interesting actually.

This is the kinda thing my dad loves (he's always tinkering with locks ~ making all doors of his and friends houses work off a single key), so I'm sure I could coerce him into helping out [;)] If I have the out lock anyway, this would seem a fairly sensible "spruce up" opportunity.

Your kind offer is much appreciated [:)] , but (unless you genuinely have no future use for them.....) I'm quite happy to source new pins for myself. Would I get new pins from *any* locksmith, or are they specialist?

PS - spare key acts in the same way.


 
I'm here... sorry, what am I supposed to be saying? [&:] Did you want me to pop some pins in the post to you? I've realised actually that I have two spare barrels knocking about (one of them is still on the car [:)] ) so there should be plenty of pins in decent condition between them. I would have a full spare set if it wasn't for the fact that some kids jimmied the ignition with a screwdriver [:mad:]

I'd recommend you at least remove and inspect the existing barrel first, you may be able to spot pretty easily what the problem is. IIRC each pin is stamped with its size (will try and have a look later).

To answer your earlier question, I would think that any locksmith specialising in auto-security would be able to supply new pins to the correct size - this after all is a common enough auto lock. Don't know where in Scotland you are but you could try this search on Yell.com
 

ORIGINAL: danmason

I'm here... sorry, what am I supposed to be saying? [&:] Did you want me to pop some pins in the post to you?
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan - was mainly looking for confirmation on the pins ~ which you've provided!
[:)]

I'll try and source some pins first and if I hit a blank (which sounds unlikely) I'll come begging for your spare bits. [:D]
 
Can't source the pins from any of the locksmiths I've tried. [:mad:]

Now trying "sniffydog" to trawl scrappies for a suitable barrel. [&:]

Dan - I'd be interested if you were willing to let one of your spare barrels go ~ let me know how much you'd want for it please sir (email in my profile).

 
Just a thought - and I don't know if this will work or not - but I have still got a tailgate lock barrel in the back panel of my car, not connected to anything. It is my intention to replace it with a rubber grommet and you are welcome to the barrel if it might donate the bits you need.

I know nothing whatsoever about how locks work though so I have no idea if it will help you out.
 
Ooh.... [:)]

I'm not 100% certain Fen, but my dad (amateur locksmith that he is) reckons the barrel should be the same.

Can anyone verify this?

Regardless - I'll gladly take you up of your offer Fen. [:)] Will send you an email when I get back from washing it!
 
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