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Door Seals.

Gwyn 686

Gwyn 686

New member
My next job to tackle on my 3.2 is to replace the door seals, I have the new seals and glue. if anyone has done this job before I would be grateful for any advice, tips, it appears a straight forward task, but just in case it turns out to be "I wish someone had told me that before I started" kind of job. Many thanks[FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"]Gwyn.[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
 
When you remove the old seals hopefully the original adhesive will have become dried and degraded so you can just pick it off but a solvent like the one evo-stick make will be handy to get the difficult stuff off. When you've done that do a 'dry run' to ensure a good fit and get used to handling the material, put wax crayon marks or similar on the seal and bodywork once you are satisfied the fit is correct. When applying the glue coated seals aim to fit to the marks you made this way you won't end up with seals that are too short or long as the rubber can bunch up or stretch depending on how it's handled.
 
Mine had already been replaced by the previous owner, but I've done it on other classic cars.

One thing to look out for is the size/shape/flexibility of the replacement seal. If any of these are vastly different from your existing ones they can put pressure on the doors when you shut them causing them to "bounce". This is more of a problem with aftermarket products. With seals I would always suggest spending a little more on the OEM item and checking them carefully before gluing them in.

Just my experience that's all.
 
Gwyn,

I've done the same job on my 964 - I believe the seals on the 3.2 are the same - and, I have to say, my recommendation is FORGET THE GLUE!!! Mine have been in for 9 months or so now and there has never been any suggestion of them moving or causing any sort of problem. Attempting to glue them in place, IMHO, makes a very simple job unbelievably messy. Without the glue it takes less than 5 minutes. I suspect things are not so clear cut if you have a Targa or a Cab, but the Coupe seals fully surround the door aperture and seem to stay in place with no trouble at all. The best bit is, if you decide that glueing IS best, you can always go back and do it later!!

Regards

Dave
 
I agree with Dave above. Try fitting the seals without the glue first and see how you get on.

The the ribbed section on the back of the seal grips the aperture well enough to make applying glue redundant. I fitted my new doors seals approx 3 yrs ago without glue and they have been fine.

Hope this helps

Anil
 
Wish someone'd told me to skip the glue before I did mine......now on third attempt and have loads of gunk to scrape out.....seal keeps popping out when my size 11s brusch over them when getting in or out....also seem to be contributing to mystery water ingress to rear drivers side footwell - even when cover is on the car (methinks must be a condensation thing ?)...
 
If you use glue you need to do a 'dry run' first and mark the bodywork and seal when you are happy with the the fit. Refit with the glue and it should fit perfectly if you align the seal with the marks on the bodywork. Sounds like you have allowed the seal to bunch up when fitting and there is a little 'excess' seal in that area or the seal is a poor fit.
 
Wish I'd posted here first !! Here are some "sorry but I haven't done it before" basic q's :-

- What Glue do you use ? Someone recently recommended a marine sealant called Sikaflex ?
- The seal has some small round holes in it at points - should these be aligned to anything in particular ?

Ta !!
 
Old fashioned brown evo-stick works great. If you can source a good marine glue that might be even better.
 
Turns out the one I've been struggling with was an inch too long (not a complaint I'm over familiar with !!). Out with the stanley knife and perfect fit, no glue required (sounds like a Phil Collins album...)
[:)]
 
Guy's,
Skip the glue, removed the old seal, scraped the old glue out, sections of the old seal remained stuck to the car, took ages to remove, placed new seal in position without glue, seal stayed in position, no problem, use the car every day, seal has not budged since Sat. Only problem I had was with the felt like seal/strip that appears to be attatched to the top of the door apperture, this seal is dry and I must have been too rough with it and caused it to split at one end, has anyone ever replaced this one ?. Pls keep your eye's on the Members "4 Sale" section I have a large tin of glue that will be up for grabs.
Thanks for all your help...Gwyn.
 
I have. I removed my felt strips for the respray - unfold the top of it and you'll see pop-rivets holding it on. Carefully drill the heads off and punch them through. You'll lose the tails into the body shell. Pop rivet the new one on - use a little sealant on the new rivets to keep moisture out. Easy.
 
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