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Dragging Clutch = Clutch Change?

Mrkjblue

New member
Hi all
Just uncovered the 924 after a winter hibenation and she started first turn, great stuff, but I'm having great difficulty engaging gears 1,2 and R when the engine is running but its fine when the engine is turned off.
Clutch all looks to be adjusted well so its going to have to be a new clutch isnt it?
This will be my first clutch change so any tips that arent in the Haynes greaty apprectiated.
(1979 N/A Man)
 
ORIGINAL: Mrkjblue

its going to have to be a new clutch isnt it?
(1979 N/A Man)

YES.
Thats how mine went...No adjustment lasts for more that a few miles then there is none left.

It is not the easiest clutch to change. Don't rely on Haynes, get help/advice from someone who has done one.
I used a simple tool... my chequebook [;)] however my garage wasn't happy when they heared that I now have a second 924 (Turbo) and are making rude noises about clutches[8|]
 
Actually now I think of it when I first adjusted the clutch it seemed really tricky to get the balance right and was probably the first sign.
But, the new clutch is here, special tools have been brought, so I'm going in.[sm=spanner1.gif]
 
ORIGINAL: Mrkjblue

But, the new clutch is here, special tools have been brought, so I'm going in.[sm=spanner1.gif]

If you don't re appear within 3 months we will send a search party.[;)]
 
You are working on a 79 manual? 4 or 5 speed? 5speed the gearbox cannot be pulled back far enough, because the extra ratio makes the gear box 100 mm longer and there is only 13mm clearance to the gear box so the box had to be tilted down. The plastic sleeve in the rear bell housing through which the gear change rod passes should I think ease forwards so that the box can be diconnected, and tilted down and out, Separate the torque tube from the front bell housing and draw it backwards. This will pull the drive shaft out of the centre plate. I can't remember if the cover at the base of the front bell accepts the clutch plate, but you can get to the pressure plate bolts that way. with the torque tube out of the way it is so much easier and quicker to undo the engine bell housing bolts if you have too. Its been a good ten years since I did mine and I never wrote it down. Draper (usual disclaimer) make a good alignment tool. It works by allowing you to centralise and clamp the friction plate to the pressure plate before offering them up as a pair to bolt to the flywheel. I used one, brilliant. That much I do remember.
 

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