Menu toggle

Drive shaft blues

Manick

New member
Hi there,

I have recently encountered an ominous knocking noise so have taken my 2.7 lux off the road and will be getting the driveshaft replaced in the near future. Besides wheel bearings which i know are due, what else (if anything) would it be strongly advisable to replace and does anyone have a reasonable estimate for the labour costs involved?

Thanks for your help

Nick
 
Hi. Welcome.

Drive shafts are an easy DIY job, if you are so inclined. A couple of hours will see it done. If you have to take it somewhere, certainly don't pay more than two hours' of labour (preferably less.)

Parts should be less than £200 for all four.

As the job is pretty simple (unbolt old ones, bolt new ones in) there is not much else to consider while you are there. BUT make sure it is the CV's which are at fault - there are a number of other things in there which sound like duff CV's when they go wrong (ask me how I know ... [:'(] ). Particular culprit is the brake pads - make sure they aren't loose, as they rattle and make an identical noise. (I don't know how much of a problem this is on the Lux's, but it certainly is on the S2/Turbo.)


Oli.
 
Thanks Oli, that is definitely what I wanted to hear. Looks like a weekend job if the weather holds up as I dont have anywhere undercover to do it. Best be this weekend as bank holiday weekends are usually wash outs!

On another point, I recently was given a set of Design 90's from I believe the turbo model. (9" and 7.5" respectively). They have an almost brand new set of tyres on so I am considering replacing with my teledials as they will need new tyres soon.

The rear wheels should fit no problem, however the fronts are (seemingly) not suitable because of the larger offset. Would spacers be an option or would the handling be adversely affected if this were indeed an option?
Is there anyone who has tried this and has an opinion on whether its is worth doing?
 
It is also recommended that the driveshaft bolts are renewed as I found out some came loose even when lock tighted in[:mad:].
Intrested to know when the noise ocurs and is it all of the time?[8|]
 
Your 2.7 will have the later offset hubs so should have no problem with fitment of the D90's as they are designed for the later offset hubs also.
 
The knocking noise occurs when the car is in drive only. It is more noticeable in the lower gears (which tbh I have not gotten out of since if I could help it) under acceleration and engine braking. Although the harder you accelerate the nastier it sounds. As soon as you depress the clutch all knocking ceases. It sounds like the offside rear is the main problem. Although I will certainly be checking the brakes before purchasing any parts.
 
That'll be identical to mine then. Except that mine had a definite looseness at the back, not from the tyres but a lateral movement of some sort. I'm assuming that it means any front-to-back parts like the torque tube or gearbox are fine, and it's only a small, cheap driveshaft. [&o]
 
This is similar to mine Paul,It isnt major but I susspect I will need to do something before the end of the year[:eek:]
ORIGINAL: pauljmcnulty

That'll be identical to mine then. Except that mine had a definite looseness at the back, not from the tyres but a lateral movement of some sort. I'm assuming that it means any front-to-back parts like the torque tube or gearbox are fine, and it's only a small, cheap driveshaft. [&o]
 
Diagnosis of problems from typed descriptions on t'interweb is never a good idea, but CV joint problems start with a 'clicking' or 'ticking' noise, usually associated with one side or the other, and usually when cornering and not applying power. The joints wear such that the balls in them are free to move fractionally when there is little torque being transmitted through the joint. When you apply power, the torque transmission is high and the balls are clamped in place so the clicking stops (but this doesn't always apply). It will happen in all gears, and can often be pinpointed to one joint from within the car (although if it is one of the inner ones, it can be harder to determine which side it is.)

A badly worn CV will not transmit the torque as well as an unworn one (and will transmit it coarsely), so can cause the car to pull to one side or the other, although I'd have thought it would have to be pretty worn for this to happen (particularly on a RWD car.)

I have never had a problem with the torque tube, but wouldn't have thought that a failure here would cause the car to pull to one side or the other - it drives both rear wheel equally, via the differential in the greabox. Having said that, a problem with the torque tube may cause the gearbox to be twisted, which could cause a pull to one side or the other.

It may be helpful to get under the car and give the drive shafts a good wiggle. There should be very very little lash in them (although a fair amount of endfloat) - twist them by hand and see what happens. You may be able to spot a worn CV in this manner. If you take the driveshaft off and take the CV joint apart (messy, but not hard at all) you will easily see whether there is any wear on the drive faces - the surfaces get pitted when worn, which is very easily seen.

An alternative option for diagnosis would be to take the driveshafts off and fit them to the other side of the car (left to right, right to left). This will reverse the drive on the CV's - using the 'other side' of the drive faces. (It doesn't matter which way 'round the driveshafts are bolted on, you just have to swap them from one side to the other. If you doubt this, work it out with a pencil and paper. Hint - look at where the drive is applied on the inner and outer joint.) If this cures the problem then you know you have a worn CV joint, but the clicking will now occur in reverse gears instead of in forward gears.

If you DO start taking driveshafts off, you'll find that they are held on with bolts with an insert head. Do buy the right tool to undo these with - it's called a "triple square" or "cheesehead" or "spline drive" tool, and should cost around a fiver from a good tool merchant. And take care - removing the drive shafts is easy, but if you mangle the head of one of the bolts then you are suddenly into a world of misery. Clean the head out carefully with some spray cleaner and ensure that the tool is fully inserted before putting any force on it.


Oli.


 
If any of it works, you owe me a beer. [8|]

In fact, I reckon you owe me a beer anyway. On account of my good looks. Make mine a pint of Landlord's, thanks.


Oli.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Just need a free (dry) day to check things out and see where I go from here.

Nick
 
Just started mine, despite cleaning all the bolts head out when I did the O/S one 11 bolts came out easily. The last took 45 minutes of swearing & sweat! I ended up using the angle grinder to cut the bolt head off! Even then I had to grind all of it off as it wouldn't let go. Once the driveshaft was off the bolt unscrewed with finger & thumb :-(
The noise knackered CVs make is a clacking, like a running horse by the side of the car.
The transaxle one on mine is full of what looks like rusty grit, the outer one is not to bad. Cheapest CV joint is from OPC with TIPEC discount believe it or not as it comes with all new bolts & washers & grease.
 

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Back
Top