Drive Shaft CV joint boots

[bryno]

Pre MOT inspection yeterday shows offside outer boot split. To remove drive shaft requires 32mm socket, T40 Torx "screwdriver" and Porsche tool 9560 ball joint press to undo the control and track arms and an 8mm stud socket for the drive shaft cap bolts.

Q1: Anyone know what's so special about this press or will a propriety ball joint splitter using a threaded stud on a lever do? I have some old type splitters you hammer into the joint but always thought them a bit brutal and prone to damaging any rubbers present.

Q2: If the CV joint is OK (seems to be i.e.not clicking or grumbling) can you get the joint off the shaft easily to replace the boot, i.e is it the rubber bellows that stops the joint coming off the shaft once its off the car?

Q3: I have seen split rubber boot kits which go over the cv joint, you add the grease then glue the split boot and clamp the rubber to the shaft. Anyone any experience of using these?

 

[Mark_Bennett]

Funnily enough an inspection at West London OPC on Saturday revealed exactly the same problem on mine...
Spooky coincidence?

The quote was for 1 & 1/2 hours labour, plus parts...

Beyond that I'm afraid I'm no use - I can't answer the questions [&o]

 

[bryno]

Hi Mark,
I presume that they are going to change the whole drive shaft? The "Bentley" service manual suggests that's what's done if you have split boot I'm trying to see if its necessary (I don't think it is unless someone tells me otherwise), anyway we will will wait and see what replies we get.

Cheers

Bryn

 

[Mark_Bennett]

Was told just the boot, repack with grease, renew fixings (jubilee clips I guess

) and that's about it. £60-odd for the "bits"

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

The special tool is just a proprietory ball joint splitter - personally I wouldn't use a forked joint splitter as you are likely to damage the ball joint rubbers. The boot rubbers are available from Porsche at about £23 each (ouch!). You could also try eurocarparts.com.

Edit: Drop me an email if you would like the instructions.

 

[bryno]

Richard,
As ever thanks for the tips, I would like the instructions, please email to bryno@globalnet.co.uk.
I will buy a joint splitter like the one in your attachment, they are commonly available and as you say do less damage than the old fork type and heavy hammer(ouch!).
Any experience with the split boots I mentioned that go over the joint and are then glued after filling with grease and then banding to the shaft?
Cheers

Bryn

 

[Glyn]

I changed my wheel bearings on the rear, didnt use any type of splitter.
Use a metal bar to apply pressure away from the joint after loosening the nut, loosen until the head of the nut is level with the top of the threads, have someone apply pressure on the bar then give the top of the nut a bash with the hammer - it falls apart, I know this sounds brutal but it does not cause damage (unless you bash the life out of it - a few gentle taps will dislodge it)- honestly, You will find most mechanics do it this way too.
The bottom joint obviously you can't hit the top with a hammer, however apply pressure with the bar in the same way and hit underneath the joint upwards - again it will come apart.