Just getting my car ready for the MOT and I noticed one of the gaiters is split at the gearbox end, so if I only disconnect at the gearbox how hard is it likely to be to remove the inboard CV joint ?, alternatively I could fit one of the split and glue gaiters or is that a no no ?.
Driveshaft gaiter.
- Thread starter pauly
- Start date
I'd have thought that if you are doing an inboard gaiter then you'd do better to take the whole driveshaft out. Yes it's a bit more unscrewing, but it will be a fair bit less hassle than trying to do it with the outer end still attached to the car.
There's been questions about CV's on here recently - do a search. They aren't hard.
Never tried the wrap-and-glue ones. (Never seen them either.) Therefore can't comment on them.
Oli.
There's been questions about CV's on here recently - do a search. They aren't hard.
Never tried the wrap-and-glue ones. (Never seen them either.) Therefore can't comment on them.
Oli.
You "should" be able to just undo the six spline bolts on the outer joint in order to drop the drive shaft - it was only because some-one had problems with those that the main hub nut (which is high torque, big spanners, and an extra person on the brake to undo, but that is all) was mentioned previously.
I have tried the "glue together" split CV joint boots, and didn't get on with them - I consider them a bodge to get through the MOT, and they are split again in a fortnight. Not worth doing really, since the inner CV joint boots do not fail an MOT anyway!
One the shaft is off it is a doddle to do it properly in a vice on the bench.
I have tried the "glue together" split CV joint boots, and didn't get on with them - I consider them a bodge to get through the MOT, and they are split again in a fortnight. Not worth doing really, since the inner CV joint boots do not fail an MOT anyway!
One the shaft is off it is a doddle to do it properly in a vice on the bench.
tr7v8
New member
Just recently done 5 driveshafts over two cars (don't ask!)so have the recent scars!
You can just drop the inner end off but you'll need to remove the circlip & then pull the CV joint off before the gaiter will come off. Not sure I'd have managed it even on a ramp, on the drive way on jacks not a cat in hells chance. It is worth getting some new bolts (6 per joint) & stripping it all off, stripping & cleaning the joints & putting fresh grease in.
I knew one of my CV's was knackered but on my AROs car it wasn't until we stripped & washed it we found the inner part of the joint was badly chipped through the case hardening.
You can just drop the inner end off but you'll need to remove the circlip & then pull the CV joint off before the gaiter will come off. Not sure I'd have managed it even on a ramp, on the drive way on jacks not a cat in hells chance. It is worth getting some new bolts (6 per joint) & stripping it all off, stripping & cleaning the joints & putting fresh grease in.
I knew one of my CV's was knackered but on my AROs car it wasn't until we stripped & washed it we found the inner part of the joint was badly chipped through the case hardening.
Having just re-built mine after a trackday, you may have a real problem removing the in board end. After removing the six bolts it took 1 week of plus gas each day and 20 mins of heat on one small part and then a very blunt cold chisel to get it moving. there is no way you could do it in situe and the glue and split CV's are rubbish. You cant get the glue in the groove without getting grease in there as well.
I am however still impressed with the quality of the parts compared to the usual mass produced rubbish.
Think I am going to have to get a 911!!!! (Will keep the 944 though)
I am however still impressed with the quality of the parts compared to the usual mass produced rubbish.
Think I am going to have to get a 911!!!! (Will keep the 944 though)
tr7v8
New member
It's worth shopping around I bought mine from an OPC as I get a discount & the CV Joint was coming from them, so it was convienient. But I found bolts from 60p to 1.98, the first price is a bit dodgy in my view & the latter is OPC. The bolts are high tensile & I wasn't sure about the 60p ones! I put a smear of copaslip under the heads to ensure I can get them out in future. I also had suspicions that water had got in from the small end of the gaiter & popped a cable tie on it. The two new joints we bought came with new bolts & shaped washers.
Very likely - the method of fit is exactly the same as Mk I golfs, even if the size is different. You will have a bolt you can match up now anyway.
One thing worth thinking about... It is so long since I change done that I can't remember, but having taken one off my spares 944 today, I noticed grease leaking from the "back" as soon as the bolts were loosened. I would assume, therefore, that there should be some sort of gasket or sealant between the CV joint and the hub? Worth bearing in mind for those of us that use salvaged parts!
One thing worth thinking about... It is so long since I change done that I can't remember, but having taken one off my spares 944 today, I noticed grease leaking from the "back" as soon as the bolts were loosened. I would assume, therefore, that there should be some sort of gasket or sealant between the CV joint and the hub? Worth bearing in mind for those of us that use salvaged parts!
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
