Drum-in-disk parking brake shoes never wear out because they are only ever applied when the car is stationary. However, the bonded-on linings can become detached from the shoe. This happens because moisture seeps under the bonding adhesive, causing rust to form in the bond which will eventually dislodge the lining. When this happens, all or part of the loose lining can slip round and wedge itself between the other lining and the drum, locking the wheel. Cars that are always garaged and never used in the wet rarely suffer this problem.
The image below shows the shoes on my 15 year-old 987.2 Cayman. Two pieces of detached brake lining can be seen on top of the disk with the bare shoe above. The other shoe looks OK at the top but the bonding has also let go on the lower half.
Over the years, I have replaced rear brake shoes on many drum braked cars so had no qualms about tackling this. New shoes and caliper bolts were duly ordered from Design 911.
Before starting, I checked on-line for videos of shoe replacement. I found a few that told me very little. There were videos that made it look really hard, but if you have experience with drum-braked cars, there should be nothing too challenging. The document below details the process that I used. If anyone has suggestions on better approaches, please post a reply to this thread, especially if they have any hints on refitting the shoe to hub carrier retaining springs.
Attached is a pdf showing the procedure that I used.
The image below shows the shoes on my 15 year-old 987.2 Cayman. Two pieces of detached brake lining can be seen on top of the disk with the bare shoe above. The other shoe looks OK at the top but the bonding has also let go on the lower half.
Over the years, I have replaced rear brake shoes on many drum braked cars so had no qualms about tackling this. New shoes and caliper bolts were duly ordered from Design 911.
Before starting, I checked on-line for videos of shoe replacement. I found a few that told me very little. There were videos that made it look really hard, but if you have experience with drum-braked cars, there should be nothing too challenging. The document below details the process that I used. If anyone has suggestions on better approaches, please post a reply to this thread, especially if they have any hints on refitting the shoe to hub carrier retaining springs.
Attached is a pdf showing the procedure that I used.
