Dynamic wheel balancing
- Thread starter Guest
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pauljmcnulty
Active member
My wheels are going in for balancing as after 1000 mile on new tyres there is an obvious problem.
I'm using my local, but trusted, independant tyre specialist who fitted the tyres. Balancing ain't rocket science, but probably best not left to a "you can't get thicker than a ***** *** fitter" type operation.
I'm using my local, but trusted, independant tyre specialist who fitted the tyres. Balancing ain't rocket science, but probably best not left to a "you can't get thicker than a ***** *** fitter" type operation.
Guest
New member
I tried conventional wheel off balancing by a pretty good shop but the problem is still there. With dynamic balancing the front wheels are left on the car, spun up on a mini rolling road, and readings taken to balance the whole rolling plot. In this way variances in the disc, hub, bearing and tyre are factored in and you get a superior balance. I had them done on my last 944 at a place close to Porscheshop and it totally transformed the steering. Bit far to go just for balancing from Oxford though. Surely there must be somewhere nearer?
mik_ok
New member
You sure that balancing "on the car" is known as "Dynamic Balancing"?
I had prolems waaaay back balancing wheels on my Fiat Superstrada and payed close attention to the guy balancing the wheels. There is an option on most balancing machines for a "Static Balance" where (when placed on the car) vertical imbalance only is corrected. This allows them to site weights on the inner rim of the wheel only.
The other option is a proper "Dynamic Balance", which does the same as above but also considers "wobble" (for want of a better phrase) and you obviously need to site weights at (or close to) both wheel rims.
I've never used an "on the car" balancer, and never suffered any problems. If you take it to a reputed fitter and insist on a dynamic balance you may see an improvement?
I had prolems waaaay back balancing wheels on my Fiat Superstrada and payed close attention to the guy balancing the wheels. There is an option on most balancing machines for a "Static Balance" where (when placed on the car) vertical imbalance only is corrected. This allows them to site weights on the inner rim of the wheel only.
The other option is a proper "Dynamic Balance", which does the same as above but also considers "wobble" (for want of a better phrase) and you obviously need to site weights at (or close to) both wheel rims.
I've never used an "on the car" balancer, and never suffered any problems. If you take it to a reputed fitter and insist on a dynamic balance you may see an improvement?
Hilux
New member
Including suspension mods or alterations?
If you have pretty bad shake then it could be a number of things all inter related. Damper settings, camber, toe in etc.
Could be a duff tyre? Are they new or the originals fitted before the suspension tweaks [
]? Swap tyres on wheels and see.
Hey all,
This has been discussed alot in the past and most people found that it was the tyres themselves which were causing the wobble. Obviously this conclusion was found after making sure all other steering components were in a serviceable state. I had terrible tramlining and some wobble on my old tyres which had worn on the outside edge, after having the tracking corrected and new tyres its like a new car !
Cheers
Dave K.
This has been discussed alot in the past and most people found that it was the tyres themselves which were causing the wobble. Obviously this conclusion was found after making sure all other steering components were in a serviceable state. I had terrible tramlining and some wobble on my old tyres which had worn on the outside edge, after having the tracking corrected and new tyres its like a new car !
Cheers
Dave K.
Guest
New member
ORIGINAL: Hilux
Including suspension mods or alterations?
If you have pretty bad shake then it could be a number of things all inter related. Damper settings, camber, toe in etc.
Could be a duff tyre? Are they new or the originals fitted before the suspension tweaks [
The car only has 55,000 miles (totally genuine miles - supported by documentation) on the clock and the suspension is good. I replaced everything else - wishbones, bushes, wheel bearings, steering joint, track rods, gaitors, ball joints etc myself - about 5,000 miles into ownership (I had them waiting to go on my previous 944 - totalled by a drink driver hitting me head on). Tyres were new about 1000 miles before I took ownership.
Guest
New member
I tightened the rearmost retaining brackets to be sure they were in the same position (scribed around the originals on chassis) as before removal, then lightly tightened the formost bolts / nuts, lowered the car onto the ground and torqued them up. The (Haynes) manual didn't make any reference to a specific procedure but I always used to do this on my kit car and it seemed like the best practice.
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