Electrical questions

[Guest]

Just got back from LeMans and expireneced a number of electrical failures over the course of being away (mechanically the car ran perfectly I'm glad to say other than bring slightly hairy on a very wet M20 on the way down)

* Firstly. The passenger electric window stopped working and I'm convinced its the relay. However, I can't find where the relay is, can anybody tell me where Porsche located it as it's not in the front boot compartment fuse box and doesn't appear to be in the engine bay one either. I can't find any details in Haynes as to where it may be located other than it does exist - its on their wiring diagram??

* No.2 - The cold air blower motor burnt itself out (and made a nasty smell in the process). Not yet looked at the manual for a difficulty rating on replacing one of these but wondered if any of you guys (or ladies) had changed one in the past and could give any good pointers. Warm air seems to be working fine so I guess the hot and cold systems have seperate motors??

No.3 - Noticed when the car's in reverse the reversing lights do a fairly good flashing disco impression. I guess this is a bad or faulty switch or connection at the gear box end but wondered if the switch was accesible without major dis-assembly work? Again, I've not yet checked the Haynes manual but I wasn't holding out much faith after its lack of descripitive assistance re electric windows.

Any asistance would be appreciated or, alternatively can anybody tell me if there's a better workshop manual around as the Haynes I've got leaves a lot to be desired compared to the Mkll Escort version they did......

Rgds
Antony

 

[Big_nige]

1. Often the actual switch gives up before anything else, doesn't it work from either switch

2. Easy swap but abit fiddley as you have to remove some annoying clips and springs that either catch you in the eye or fly off never to be seen again. The motors are quite expensive for what they are.

3. Check the bulb holders too as they can be abit flakey too, the contacts often need cleaning and bending abit for improved contact

 

[Guest]

1. No, doesn't work from either switch. I've checked the resistance with a multi-meter through the passenger door switch and it seems to "switch" as it should internally. Buggered if I know where the relay is though....

2. Think I'll whip out the passenger seat and have a fiddle here - thanks.

3. Don't think this is the issue as both lights flash in perfect unison indicating a fault further back in the wiring. Guess logic was to check at the switching end but wondered if anybody had had the same issue and new exactly where and how accesible the switch was.

 

[Big_nige]

the fresh/cold air blower is behind the dash not under the passenger seat.

 

[Guest]

Yes, read back what I'd wrote myself and laughed - I meant I'd take the seat out so I could get better access under the dash.

 

[al@broadway]

Hello Antony, I ve attached a link on the passenger door window issue, seems a common fault with a number of solutions possible.
Regards Alan

http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/fb.asp?m=281937

 

[Big_nige]

Haha, you still won't be able to access the blower when the seat is removed as its only accessible from the boot, pull the boot carpet away, remove the back of dash cover and you'll see the fresh air blower housing, remove the ducting and cables and the whole lot comes out. Dismantle and replace the motor.

The Bentley manual is better than the Haynes, although at about £60 is ain't cheap. You shouldn't really need it for this job but might help with future projects.

 

[lesworth]

+1 re Bentley. Haynes manual is about as much use as a chocolate teapot.

 

[Guest]

Guys. Thanks, great advice. I reckon this black box is odds on favourite with mine too. Off to the garage to find out. Thanks.

Ps. Fortunately didn't get around to removing my passenger seat yet.....

 

[richthomas]

I have just this minute put my fresh air blower back together at lunch time(89 3.2, I just haven't got around to changing my avatar yet!) after replacing the motor, it's a fairly straight forward job.

I haven't got either manual but it was all pretty obvious how it came apart once you look at it. Once you have removed the carpet and hardboard cover (4 screws), remove the bracket on the passenger side ( 2 10mm bolts). Undo the 3 hose clamps (1 drivers side, 2 passenger side, 7mm head) on either side of the fan unit and pull hoses free, pull the power cable socket from the under side, undo cable nut (7mm), and undo the 2 bolts (8mm) holding it to the shroud. Leaver off the cable clamp with a screwdriver being careful to hold it, you don't want it thing flying off never to be seen again! With a bit of wiggling and pulling the fan unit should now come out.

Pop the snap fasteners off the 2 into 1 pipe on the passenger side and remove. Leaver off the snap rings on both sides of the fan unit surround with a flat blade screwdriver, leaving your finger over the top. Be careful as these could fly off, or you could slip and put the screwdriver through your finger! The surround should now fall into 2 halves. Put the flaps aside to clean.

Now you should be left with the fan unit. You can replace the whole thing, but you can replace just the motor which is much cheaper, about £50. The fan blades are a push fit on the end of the motor, and are tricky to remove. A good tip I found out today is heat the top of the blades where they push onto the motor with a heat gun (on low) or hairdryer. You just want to get them warm. You should be able to hold the unit between your knees and knock the motor out with a centre punch and a hammer. I managed to drop mine on the kitchen floor before getting the blades off the motor and cracked the fans breaking the mount and had to get a second hand blade moulding, so be careful once you have it off. The plastic is not that strong. To remove the motor from the housing just undo the snap clips.

Refitting is the reverse of removal. Press the blades onto the motor with a 10-12mm socket and hammer, note that you can press it on too low so it rubs on the motor or leave it too high so it rubs inside the shroud so check as you are putting it back on.

I cleaned everything as it came off, and went slow working out getting it all apart so didn't note how long it took one afternoon, but put it all back together bonnet closed in less than an hour. Now got a lovely working blower, though even on full it doesn't blow that much air!

Hope that helps, and if you break anything getting it apart, don't blame me

Rich

 

[alex.powell]

If you are still unting for the relays, I think you will find it behind the speedo along with the central locking and some other thingy that I forget now...