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engine blocks

chrismanchr

New member
right Ive had the bodywork on my 944 s2 done so now its the engine !

the symtoms are a pronounced knock when cold - which sounds to me like piston slap but theres no oil loss ,smoke etc

and also more recently an internal coolant leak which could be head gasket

I expect when I take off the head ,a bore or the bores will be scored as the car has overheated badly in its history due to a retarded owner who wouldnt fix a little plastic elbow off the water pump and ran it low on water

now I bought a secondhand engine off ebay very cheap that had snapped the timing belt but on stripping it down I found cylinder no 2 had a big 'scuff' on the bore but the other 3 bores where perfect

I'm wondering if the engine thats in the car has very scored bore I might just put in the bottom end Ive got from ebay for the time being

Or and this is for the real 944 experts ,according to all the books Ive read about the 944 they say the s2 block comes from the 2.7 being 104mm bore does this mean the 2.7 block can be used in an s2 engine and give 3.0 cc as theres one on ebay at the moment in good condition and the tolerance group is 1 which is the same as both the s2 engines I have so I must be able to make a good engine out of the lot of them

please feel free to give your opinions
 

scuffed bore on no.2


the rest of them look like this


the full bottom end still complete


the difference between the engines must be the crank throw

heres the block for sale
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... ink:top:en

and comes with crank girdle
 
Yes but make sure the pistons are of the right tolerance group when you will measure the bores of the block you plan to use.
 
yes I know about that the block that was for sale was tolerance group 1 which seems to be the norm actually as both my engines are tolerance group 1 theres group 0,1 and 2

that engine block I saw on ebay strangely sold straight after I posted it up ,its been on ebay for months lol mmmm

who ever bought it if you use it on a s2 rebuild let me know how you got on
 
Shame really, as it would be to my mind a better way to go as at least you can see the bores before buying. If one does come up again the you will need longer head studs which I have found can be a bitch to get out and don't get the crank pulleys confused as they are different between 8v and 16v.
 

ORIGINAL: TTM

Yes but make sure the pistons are of the right tolerance group when you will measure the bores of the block you plan to use.

yes I know about the tolerance groups ,I'd much rather find a full good bottom end !!! that you can see the bores

but a block group 1 tolerance is good
 

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