Engine Cross Member for Carrera 3.2

Guest · Jan 3, 2006

First time on the general forum, thought someone might be able to help. I /we have almost rebuilt my 3.2 Carrera (1987), after a big end bearing failure. We have discovered that the engine cross member has been broken and welded, and not very well repaired at that, could we fabricate a new one or would you recommend purchasing a new OEM. Thanks in anticipation. Scott (Llandudno)

Alan_Armstrong · Jan 3, 2006

Buying a new one could be expensive....try contacting Douglas Valley Breakers for a 2nd hand one, if you want to ensure condition, they normally are happy to take digi photos and email them to you!

Guest · Jan 3, 2006

Hi Alan, many thanks for the reply, will contact them asap. Scott(Llandudno)

rob911 · Jan 3, 2006

If its the rear crossmember your talking about - its pretty common for them to shear next to the external mounting bolts - the bolts seize in the crossmember.
If the repair is carried out well - they usually last but remember the rear crossmember is subject to a lot of stresses.
I recently replaced one to a 914 and it cost approx 125 euro new.

Gwyn 686 · Jan 3, 2006

Hi Scott,
There is a cross member for a 1988 Carrera for sale on "E" bay item number 4600 967 490 current price is £50.00 +p/p.I have bought items from this seller on previous occassions and they have been fine......regards.Gwyn.

Guest · Jan 4, 2006

Hi Gwyn, many thanks for the reply, and the info, I will have a look all the best for the new year. Scott (Llandudno).

nathan 1981 930 G50 · Jan 8, 2006

I wouldn't recommend Douglas Valley Breakers, they screwed me over.
They sold me a part that didn't work. When I opened up the part I could see why, someone had been in there before and cut some wires. I reconnected the wires but it still didn't work. They told me to post it back which I did and they never refunded my £60.00.
Whenever I rang it was never convenient and they would ring me back, but they never did. Eventually I gave up on it.

Guest · Jan 9, 2006

Thanks Nathan, I have e.mailed them but they haven't had the courtsey to reply, so I won't be bothering. I have decided along with my mate to fabricate the rear engine crossmember from 1 inch steel tubing, and then getting it nickel cadmium coated. Should look the DB's and be a lot stronger. Thanks Scott.

nathan 1981 930 G50 · Jan 11, 2006

Good luck.

I think the genuine part is OK, but some people lift the car via the engine with a trolley jack or via the hole in the bracket with a hoist. Either puts strain on the bracket.
Where I had a lot of work done once they lifted the car a little with the bracket using a engine hoist. I advised them not too as I had heard about those brackets breaking. They said it looked plenty strong enough. 90 secs later a rubber engine mount popped out of its metal holder... I then said if they could not get it back together I would pay half towards a new replacement (I'm way too generous), they got it back in the mount though.

Will your creation weigh less than the original bracket ?

Guest · Jan 17, 2006

Hi Nathan, thanks for your mail, the cross member had been tacked and was ready for welding proper, but a friend of mine who said he was good at welding said he could do it, but has sh****d it, so we have to start again tonight. I have attached a photo of it before it was welded proper. It will be a little heavier than the original bar, but it will be stronger and better looking when it is finished. Will put a pic of on the forum when that is done. Thanks Scott (Llandudno).

nathan 1981 930 G50 · Jan 21, 2006

I didn't Email you. Maybe it was someone else.

1. You have lost the flexibility of being able to move the threaded ends backwards/forwards to line up with the mounts in the car.

2. Where the two square tubes meet near the ends it will be difficult to weld them together inside (approx 25 degrees) using a mig welder (maybe your welder will use arc or oxy/acetylene torch).

Maybe it would be easier to reproduce the original out of thicker metal.