Engine mounts.......

[wolfie308]

Whilst having my belts tensioned this week, I asked my Indie to investigate a strange rumble that has gradually become more noticeable over the last few weeks. It manifests itself as a vibration you can feel through the gear stick and also additional trim rattling and you can feel it slightly through the dash. You can now actually feel it a bit through the chassis as well.
Has been diagnosed as the offside engine mount which has partly collapsed(thought this was more an issue with turbos due to hotter exhaust)but I guess will affect all models in time.

Am awaiting a price for fitting and my question to the panel is... what are the views re using OE part which I believe is pretty dear, versus aftermarket part? Should they both be done or is it generally considered okay to do just the one? Any ideas of costs?

 

[Mike_Pollock]

You can certainly just do the one, when I swapped my engine the o/s one was sheared 7/8th the way round! But the n/s one just doesn't seem to go at all.
Dont know about prices but pattern ones would be ok for me.
Can be changed without removing the engine, but you do need a big lever to move the lump around!

 

[sulzeruk]

Worth doing them both as the O/S one is the hardest to get to, the N/S one is easy in comparison. The ones I buy from ECP are the same manuafacturer as OE one, just that the Porsche part number is ground of! I pay about £28 per mount I think.
Alasdair

 

[wolfie308]

Thanks Alasdair, that sounds okay price wise - maybe it was the front suspension top mounts I was thinking were pretty dear. I'll be getting both sides done ASAP in the New Year.

BTW....watched a programme recently on Discovery which reckoned that Bonnybridge was the centre of the 'Falkirk Triangle' - apparently the area with one of the highest number of UFO sightings in the U.K.[]

 

[chrisg]

Having done the engine mount change on my 951 a few years ago my advice would be as follows:

1. Ensure you remove the steering shaft from the rack completely - if not you'll bend the UJ joint and render it useless.
2. In order to do 1. remove the four nuts/ bolts holding the steering rack to the front cross member.
3. In order to support the weight of the engine whilst you lower the cross member, it's best to either a. jack the sump using a large piece of wood to spread the load or b. support the engine from above at the front eye hook AND the rear hook on the back of the cam cover.
4. Supporting the engine at the front allows it to twist requiring huge amounts of leverage to put the engine back to line up with the mounts.
5. Don't over tighten the 13mm bolts that go into the mounts - it's easy to strip the thread from the aluminium insert

Other than the above, it's pretty straight forward albeit very time consuming and frustrating to get at some of the bolts !