Engine Oil, what would you recommend?

[Kumaran.Govender]

Hi,

I need to find this out quite urgently. I am driving up to North Wales later today and was doing a quick check on my car (Cayman 2.9 PDK) and noted that the oil level was quite low, when I run the check it comes out at the lowest bar on the graph. So I am planning to top up the oil but I am a little unsure about which oil I should go for. The manual is recommending SAE 0W-40, 5W-40, 5W-50 for above -25 degrees celcius or Porsche A40 approved. I have checked online and found the Shell Helix Ultra which is 5W-40 and Porsche A40 approved. Does anyone recommend this or the Mobil 1 0W-40, both of which are fully synthetic?

Any advice/options will be welcomed.

BTW: Is it normal to be topping up oil in the car? My previous car never needed to be topped up, only ever required a top-up at service time.

 

[JohnP]

I use Mobil 1 0W-40 all the time. Oil top-ups are not unusual as long as it does not become excessive.

 

[Motorhead]

+1 for Mobil 1 0W-40 Kumi. If it's been OPC maintained (or leading Independents for that matter), they'll have used Mobil 1 as it's Porsche's recommended supplier. Just make sure that you check the level when the car is on a flat surface. You'll need less than 1.25 litres for a top-up. Regarding oil consumption, providing you've not got a leak and you're not trailing clouds of blue-ish smoke, it really depends upon how and where you drive. My Cayman's not a daily drive but I always check the oil level whenever I've had a run, just in case. I suggest that you keep an eye on the level over the next few days as a precaution. Have a good trip to Wales - there are some excellent roads up there..! Jeff

 

[Buddy]

Also remember that the oil level is to be checked while the engine is warm so take a drive to warm up, then find a flat and level place to check the oil switch off and wait 5 minutes, top up in 1/4 ltr steps, checking between top ups. But give the oil time to reach the tank. I can't remember if the measurement needs the engine to be run after top up to return the oil to the tank. It's surprising how few places are flat and level but at least you still have an indication of having an oil level. I sometimes find I need to top up after a service and then round about once a year to the next service.

 

[Motorhead]

Note that Kumi has a 2011 (Gen II) Cayman Buddy. FYI you can only check the oil level when the car's stationary and the engine is warm and running. Then there's a 1 minute countdown before the level is checked. Jeff

 

[Kumaran.Govender]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Getting ready to hit the road now. Mobil 1 it is. Cheers.

 

[JohnP]

Inspired by this thread I have had a good look through my handbook (Gen 1 'S'). Oil for these should be checked either when cold 'if the vehicle has not been driven for an extended period' (not defined) OR with the engine at operating temperature. Oil consumption as listed in Technical Data - Engine Specifications is given as 'up to 1.5 l/1000 km' which seems surprisingly high to me.

 

[ChrisW]

I find that 350 mil tops up my Cayman R once it shows less than full, --- and it has done this twice in 6000 miles --- the last time very recently. I didn't turn it over after adding the oil, should I have ? Other than starting it the following morning []

 

[Motorhead]

ORIGINAL: ChrisW ....I didn't turn it over after adding the oil, should I have ?....

I don't think it's necessary Chris, other than to check the level. The watercooled engines (with the exception, I think, of the Mezger-based engines in the Turbo and GT3) aren't actually dry-sumped, so the oil goes straight into the sump. But they do have both scavenge and supply pumps as in a dry-sump system. Incidentally, the Handbook says that the difference between the min and max marks on the display is approx 1.25 litres and that the increments are approx 400ml, so your 350ml is about right. Are you measuring it with a pipette..? Interestingly JohnP, the level measurement procedure has changed between the Gen I and Gen II cars. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, on the Gen II cars the level can only be checked when the car's stationary and the engine is warm (>60deg C) and idling. Jeff

 

[ChrisW]

A baking measure [] I wipe it clean and then stick it in the dishwasher so the 'wife doesn't know [][]

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

ORIGINAL: Motorhead Interestingly JohnP, the level measurement procedure has changed between the Gen I and Gen II cars. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, on the Gen II cars the level can only be checked when the car's stationary and the engine is warm (>60deg C) and idling. Jeff

That's because the Gen II engine is effectively a dry sump engine. The oil pan is separated from the crankcase by an oiltight sheet metal plate. The engine needs to be running so that the crankcase and heads are being drained by the scavenge pumps, and that's when the oil pan is at the correct level.

 

[Motorhead]

Well, that is interesting Richard - thanks for the info. A dry sump engine.....with a sump..! I'm wondering if that's been done so that the core engine can be used for the forthcoming 991 Turbo/GT2 and GT3 to meet the increased demands of track use? Jeff

 

[ChrisW]

Thanks Richard, So oil surge in Gen 2 with semi'slicks is not an issue ?

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

Here's what the 997 Gen 2 Service Technik says (same applies to 987.2): Oil supply The oil supply in the new generation of engines has been essentially redesigned with the following objectives in mind: • To ensure the supply of oil even during very high lateral and axial acceleration • To reduce friction and drive losses The main differences between the new oil supply system and that used on previous models are as follows: • Additional oil extraction point in the cylinder head • Electronic demand-controlled oil pump • Additional watertight sheetmetal panel between crankcase and oil pan Compared with the previous models, the new 3.6 and 3.8-liter engines have not only one, but two extraction points in each cylinder head. In addition, the new 911 engines now have a total of 5 oil pumps instead of 3. These are located in the oil pan and are driven by a shared shaft. They include 4 extraction pumps for the cylinder heads (2 per cylinder head) and a new demand-controlled oil pressure pump. I suspect to are correct Jeff & Chris. Effectively, the oil tank is the bottom section of the crankcase. Being horizontal, rather than vertical on the old Mezger GT3/Turbo engines, I wouldn't have thought it was quite as effective at preventing surge, but I guess that if baffled well it would certainly be better than the M.96 and M.97 engine. It would stop any oil splash in the crankcase though. Time will tell, I suppose. The M.96 engine looked good on paper....... [] Edit: I've put this diagram together from the parts lists, so you can see how it goes together:

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks for that Richard. Nice to see the actual layout. I presume that splash oil from the crank/small-end bearings/pistons collects on the sheetmetal panel and then drains somehow to the heads to be collected by the four scavenge pumps. Yes, I'd read somewhere else that the engine uses an electronic demand-controlled oil pump. Does the pump incorporate some form of electronically regulated by-pass valve rather than a conventional spring-loaded ball valve device? By the way, can I add my congratulations on the 996 Guide - a great achievement. I was hoping that now you're a Cayman owner we might see something from you on that topic but I note that someone has beaten you to it already..! Maybe a revised edition for the 987? Jeff

 

[Richard_Hamilton]

Drop me an email Jeff and I'll send you the Technik. As I understand it though, the oil in the crankcase runs into the collectors (26&18) and is scavenged into the lower tank.

 

[gmcraib]

I have the shell helix in mine, got an independant to do an oil change and that is what they used. I have a bottle to top it up. I think it had mobil 1 in before, so in comparison I would say that the car uses more oil now but it is difficult to be sure. The car will need another oil change soon ahead of some trips away and trackdays so if I get an independant to do it then I'll specify mobil 1 this time. Not sure if I will change the oil again after trackdays (probably a good idea) but if so perhaps revert to helix again for pootering about off season so to speak.