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Fitting new rear shocks

steve 944t

steve 944t

Member
I have a nice shiny new pair of rear M030 Konis [:D] which I will hopefully be fitting at the weekend. It looks very straight forward, but is there anything I need to be aware of? I seem to remember reading somewhere about adjusting them to the softest setting initially to bed them in properly. Is this necessary as it would be a bit of a pain to have to remove them again to adjust.
I managed to shear 2 bolts off while changing the rear ARB bushes. Currently running without the ARB while I drill the old ones out. Not fun. Here's hoping I dont have a similar problem with the top shock mounting as that could be a real disaster [:mad:]. Plenty of WD40 applied so far.
I will be offline until Thursday but any tips will be gratefully received.
 
ORIGINAL: steve 944t
I seem to remember reading somewhere about adjusting them to the softest setting initially to bed them in properly. Is this necessary as it would be a bit of a pain to have to remove them again to adjust.
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It is not necessary but they will be wearing out more quickly if they are improperly bedded.
When readjusting them it is not necessary to remove them from the car, you only have to unbolt the lower mount.
For readjustment, make sure to lift the rear of the car in order to remove any weight/effort from the shocks for easy unbolting of the lower mounts.
 
any tips will be gratefully received
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Lots of WD40, and then some more and then some more after that [;)]

Don't get over enthusiastic with the biggest breaker bar you can find, I know it is a great temptation. The lower shock eys bolt into a big alloy casting and so this is always going to cause trouble. Try using an impact driver in preference to the breaker bar.

Heating the bolt is another good way of freeing it but you are in reasonable proximity to the fuel tank and heating the bolt will destroy the shock lower bushes which will put you in a point of no return.

I mean Steve, it's only two bolts mate. How difficult can it be? [;)]

Them ones down the bottom are pretty damn fightening, I can tell you.
 
The only tip I can offer is that the top mount goes right through the wheel arch and the bolt is hidden under the underseal. So you need a socket on the wheel arch side and a spanner on the gearbox side to stop it just spinning around [8|]
 
Thanks guys.
I mean Steve, it's only two bolts mate. How difficult can it be?
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Exactly my thinking, which is why I thought I had better ask for assistance! [;)] I will keep spraying with WD40 and an impact driver is on its way from those helpful people at screwfix.
I will set them to soft to bed them in properly - will probably still be an improvement over the current set up, which is a bit on the bouncy side.
Stand by for my next post - "I've broken my lower shock mounting. Where can I get a new one?" [:D]
 
The only tips I can give you are the same as everyone else. The top bolts on mine were relativley easy to undo, the bottom ones had me making lots of noise, they are on there tight. I think the best advise I could give you is have some to help. One person on the back of the top bolt, and one to undo made the job a lot easier, and it took the force of two people pushing on an extension bar to get the bottom ones undone, I just couldn't move them on my own. If you are doing it on your drive try to get the back as high as you can, there's not much room under there[;)]

Good luck

Rich
 
I hit my extension bar with a 4lb lump hammer and it broke out OK. I was a bit concerned that one of the bolts would shear though.
 
Well I didnt get round to doing this at the weekend so I have another week of WD40-ing to try to loosen the bolts. The prospect of the bottom bolt shearing is a bit worrying as I still have one of the sheared ARB bolts which is resisting all efforts to be drilled out[:mad:]. Hopefully the impact driver will shock the bolt loose. Still, the positive side is that I have now got used to how the car handles with tired shocks and no ARB so it should feel like a brand new car once it is all back together!
 
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