I would rebuild them yourself. If you are even partially mechanically inclined, and have a dcent-sized bench vise, it takes about 4 hours total for both sides including removal, rebuild, and replacement.
The kit for the balljoints that I prefer is from SSI Auto. It has brass bushings instead of the stock poly and is patterned after the joints that the factory used in the 951 Cup cars. Here is the link:
http://www.ssiauto.com/index.shtml?/porscheperformance.shtml
When you order the kit, it comes with everything you need except for grease and new circlips. If you can't find new circlips at your local hardware store, www.rennbay.com has them.
ONE COMMENT ON "REBUILT" A-ARMS THAT YOU MAY PURCHASE FROM VARIOUS VENDORS: They often have done the rebuild in a way that is less than acceptable. Often times you see where they have drilled out the mounting area of the a-arm where the balljoint goes, and have pressed in a sealed kit called a "febi" kit. This is a one-time repair that does not last long. And, once it goes bad, it cannot be rebuilt. You are much better off rebuilding them yourself with the proper kit.
If for some reason the front a-arm bushings are in bad shape, you can get red polyurethane Weltmeister bushings. They are available from many vendors, including www.paragon-products.com. These are a little harder to replace than the balljoints. You have to break the end sleeves off them, then cut out the old rubber with a hot knife. After that, you need to take a hacksaw blade and CAREFULLY cut a longitudinal cut in the inner sleaves, so that they can be compressed and removed from the aluminum arm. Once that is accomplished, the new red bushings and brass inner tube press right in by hand.
Once done, a proper alignment is in order.
I would suggest, at this time when you have it all torn apart and are saving a lot of money by doing it yourself, treat your car to a new set of 968 caster blocks for the rear of the a-arms.
Hope that helps!
Cheers,
Jeremy
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