Just a few quick notes about changing the suspension on the front of a 993 - don't think they are here already apologies if they are.
Background: 1996 C4S on standard suspension, to be replaced with Bilsteins and MO30 springs and roll bar.
First thing to be aware of is that the lowest strut mount bolt is18mm, I did not have one in my toolset despite working on a few cars over the years (fortunately my next door neighbour did), I have my own now [
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There is a note in the manual about getting the top nut off the strut assembly (to remove the spring) and that a special tool is needed - I did not have the patience to wait for the tool to turn up, so I took an angle grinder to a deep socket to create a little 'window' for an allen key wrench to fit in - you just have to be a bit inventive to get enough leverage to prevent the allen key turning when you turn the socket!
Unfortunately I then discovered that the Bilsteins come with a 22mm nut not a 21mm (as the original), I am not sure why this is but I am not brave enough to re-use the original (must be bigger for a reason?), so I have ordered the correct tool for tightening the 22mm nut (no rush and I figure I may get to use the tool again so can't be bothered to angle grind another socket).
Replacing the roll bar is an absolute pig of a job []
The clamps over the bushes cannot be removed completely and make removing the bushes from the bar nigh on impossible. In the end I had to use a screwdriver to lever the clamps up to give some extra clearance - using plenty of 5mm thick rubber to protect the surrounding area. Even doing this it was still difficult because I did not want to lever the clamps any more than necessary.
Once the bushes are out of the way it is a 'simple' matter of twisting the bar this way and that until you find a route out of the car (not as simple as it sounds) make a mental note of the route taken so that you can follow it in reverse when the new one goes in []
Replacing the roll bar was probably the longest part of the whole job.
If during the job you decide to disconnect the caliper brake pipe at the connection with the hose (rather than leaving it connected and the caliper supported on box), beware that if this connection has not been disturbed for a while the flare nut might be corroded on to the pipe. Mine was on one side and totally destroyed the pipe - on the plus side they are not too expensive (about £7 each) my recommendation would be have them available.
When removing the ancilliaries from the old strut the plastic bits have a 'plug' in the centre of each fitting which needs to be pushed out from behind, it is a bit fiddly - I ended up using a variety of different tools to do it. In hindsight depending on price it might be easier to simply replace them.
Can't think of anything else. Apart from the roll bar it is a fairly easy job []
Hopefully there will not be another of these when I have done the rear suspension []
Background: 1996 C4S on standard suspension, to be replaced with Bilsteins and MO30 springs and roll bar.
First thing to be aware of is that the lowest strut mount bolt is18mm, I did not have one in my toolset despite working on a few cars over the years (fortunately my next door neighbour did), I have my own now [
]There is a note in the manual about getting the top nut off the strut assembly (to remove the spring) and that a special tool is needed - I did not have the patience to wait for the tool to turn up, so I took an angle grinder to a deep socket to create a little 'window' for an allen key wrench to fit in - you just have to be a bit inventive to get enough leverage to prevent the allen key turning when you turn the socket!
Unfortunately I then discovered that the Bilsteins come with a 22mm nut not a 21mm (as the original), I am not sure why this is but I am not brave enough to re-use the original (must be bigger for a reason?), so I have ordered the correct tool for tightening the 22mm nut (no rush and I figure I may get to use the tool again so can't be bothered to angle grind another socket).
Replacing the roll bar is an absolute pig of a job [
]The clamps over the bushes cannot be removed completely and make removing the bushes from the bar nigh on impossible. In the end I had to use a screwdriver to lever the clamps up to give some extra clearance - using plenty of 5mm thick rubber to protect the surrounding area. Even doing this it was still difficult because I did not want to lever the clamps any more than necessary.
Once the bushes are out of the way it is a 'simple' matter of twisting the bar this way and that until you find a route out of the car (not as simple as it sounds) make a mental note of the route taken so that you can follow it in reverse when the new one goes in [
] Replacing the roll bar was probably the longest part of the whole job.
If during the job you decide to disconnect the caliper brake pipe at the connection with the hose (rather than leaving it connected and the caliper supported on box), beware that if this connection has not been disturbed for a while the flare nut might be corroded on to the pipe. Mine was on one side and totally destroyed the pipe - on the plus side they are not too expensive (about £7 each) my recommendation would be have them available.
When removing the ancilliaries from the old strut the plastic bits have a 'plug' in the centre of each fitting which needs to be pushed out from behind, it is a bit fiddly - I ended up using a variety of different tools to do it. In hindsight depending on price it might be easier to simply replace them.
Can't think of anything else. Apart from the roll bar it is a fairly easy job [
]Hopefully there will not be another of these when I have done the rear suspension [
]
