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Fuel lines

S

SUSIT

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Guys, who of you have replaced the fuel lines and how difficult was it?

Had an advisory for the rear section in October, put car in to garage late November for a week while on holiday to get it amongest a number of things done to come home to it not being dont (amongest a number of things) [:eek:]

Might tackle it myself if not too bad a job

thanks in advance [;)]

Stephen
 
There is more than one way to skin that particular cat and how you choose to do it determines the level of difficulty. The problem is that the OE lines run between the rear beam and the body and the only way to replace with OE is to drop the rear beam first (as I have done). Not difficult but time consuming and carries a reasonably high chance of one thing leading to another along the way (siezed/snapped bolts, knackering the mounts etc etc) and of course before you can get the rear beam off, you'll need to take the exhaust off...... you get the idea. Another option (there may be several more) is to replace some or all of the OE lines with rubber petrol hose. You can then run the hose pretty much anywhere you like (including up and over the rear beam) and so long as you clip it securely and ensure its not chafing on anything or too close to anything hot or moving, the MOT man should be OK with it. I expect this would be a much easier (and ALOT cheaper) job than the OE option.
 
I did it the proper way using the correct OEM parts not hard but time consuming and expensive about £400 in parts if I remember correctly. if I was doing it again I would use the 968 lines as the parts only run to £130 or so I,m told the original parts have lasted 25 years so I guess It,s good for 25 more,.......If I ever finish it[:D]
 
Ken, sure you will find something else to take apart, good on you fella, when you have finished there will not be an awful lot that you have not done, get it back together for the decent weather and enjoy it.
 
I did it with braided flexible lines using a kit from RPM... I had to do it on a gravel driveway over a weekend so it was the only sensible option. If I had to do it again, I would drop the rear beam and adapt the 968 lines.
 
I've got the RPM lines on mine as well, it cost as much as the OEM fitted so I'm not sure of the advantages? I presume they know how to fit them as fast as anyone, but the time taken was the same as I was quoted for replacing with OEM.
 
You might as well do all the rear brake lines and the two hoses as they are similarly inaccessible behind the beam. You need to disconnect the brakes anyway to drop the beam so it makes sense to do them with the brake fluid drained down. But then by the same logic, you might as well take the calipers off while you're at it and check for plate lift and sort that if needs be. And then if you've got the calipers off, you might as well take the discs off and give the handbrake shoes a check........ The other "biggie" is the spring plate bushes which can apparently be done with the beam dropped a bit but still attached to the car. But if you have the beam on the bench/floor, now would be a good time to do them. Then of course, there are plenty off opportunites to discover rust in places which you have never been able to see before when the beam was in place and the beam itself surely deserves a little bit of love while it's off. I am presently working my way through this list myself so I'm getting quite familiar with my back end (ooh, er!). On mine, the rubber torsion tube carrier mounts fell apart in my hands so I am currently converting them to a solid steel version and I'm going to fabricate steel mounts for the bananas while I'm at it. Nearly forgot cv joints.
 
ORIGINAL: Monkeythree You might as well do all the rear brake lines and the two hoses as they are similarly inaccessible behind the beam. You need to disconnect the brakes anyway to drop the beam so it makes sense to do them with the brake fluid drained down. But then by the same logic, you might as well take the calipers off while you're at it and check for plate lift and sort that if needs be. And then if you've got the calipers off, you might as well take the discs off and give the handbrake shoes a check........ The other "biggie" is the spring plate bushes which can apparently be done with the beam dropped a bit but still attached to the car. But if you have the beam on the bench/floor, now would be a good time to do them. Then of course, there are plenty off opportunites to discover rust in places which you have never been able to see before when the beam was in place and the beam itself surely deserves a little bit of love while it's off. I am presently working my way through this list myself so I'm getting quite familiar with my back end (ooh, er!). On mine, the rubber torsion tube carrier mounts fell apart in my hands so I am currently converting them to a solid steel version and I'm going to fabricate steel mounts for the bananas while I'm at it. Nearly forgot cv joints.
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Lol you sure you didn't miss anything [8|] Thanks for the heads up, brakes are not long done but i think I should take the rear end off my old white S2, refurb it and do a swap. My blue one is my daily driver so cant afford for it to be off the road any length of time. Stephen
 
Well you did ask [;)] ! Having a spares car is a real luxury for a job like this. If you had your spare beam all pre-prepared, I would say you could probably swap out the OE fuel lines over a weekend. Mornings job to drop the beam, afternoons job to swap out the lines, second morning to refit the shiny new beam, second afternoon to fettle, adjust handbrake, bleed brakes etc I dropped mine single handedly but it would definitely be easier with two people as its a heavy and unwieldy lump.
 
I had my indie fit nylon fuel lines. That was 16 years ago, nor trouble since. Very cheap too, less than £200 fitted. Modern fuel tanks are made from nylon
 
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