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Fuel pipe replacement

Tom

New member
My S2 has just failed its MOT due to a fuel leak from one of the metal fuel pipes at the rear drivers side that has rusted. Not wanting to drive any distance, I've had a quote from the nearest German car specialist - it has come in it at over £1000, and they say they'll need to drop the rear suspension down to fit the new pipes. I've spoken to my usual specialist too but he recommends trying to do the job without dropping the suspension down (because all the bolts may be seized and if they disconnect the torsion bar then the whole suspension will need setting back up). Has anyone got any recommendations about the best way of doing this? Apart from the cost, I don't want this to turn into a saga.

 
it can be done by just releasing one side of the beam, and pushing it down you only need about 3 inches of space to get the lines through, I have done this job twice now.

the suspension will not need re-setting up again as you dont need to undo any of the adjustments.

the parts come to around £250 for all genuine Porsche, you might as well change the fuel filter while you are there.

you need the car about 12-14 inches up in the air and you need to remove the front wheel and arch liner, the rear wheel and shock on the drivers side, the exhaust mount on the torque tube, the OS brake flexi hose, that should give just enough room to get the pipe through.

you will need the two main pipes

return 951 356 935 02 £69

feed 951 356 967 02 £67.00

the two short metal pipes at the front might need replacing

944 356 969 10 £57

944 356 937 10 £62

9 new fixing clips 999 511 199 40 @£2.00 each

possibly the filter rubber hoses

951 356 041 07 £44

941 356 047 10 £17

Filter 928 110 253 06 £27

tank to fuel pump hose

951 356 557 00 £9

worth replacing these as they need updating for modern fuels with additives, a bit of patience and a lot of swearing!

prices are a rough guide only as my price update is now about a year out of date

 
You can also replace the lines with flexible hose which doesn't require dropping the suspension at all. RPM used to sell a kit for £300 with all the pipes and fittings. I'm sure you can get the parts for cheaper but since I had the car stranded it was worth it to know I had all the right fittings.

 
Or you can do a temporary fix that will get it through the MOT for about £20 by cutting out the rotten pipe either side of the torsion beam at a convenient place and fitting 10mm & 8mm bore rubber fuel pipe with double fuel pipe clips each side. You need to push the flex hose onto the steel pipe about 50mm. You can do this without dropping the torsion beam. Its a temporary fix but in my experience it can last years.

 
When it comes to fuel lines, do it once and do it right. Or as I like to say, don't f!&£ with fuel!! As Waylander says the parts from Porsche aren't too expensive for what they are. Any other 'fixes' are a bodge in my opinion so I wouldn't go there personally.

If the indies price inclucludes replacing with genuine parts and doing a proper job of it, then that price doesn't seem too unreasonable having carried out this job myself last summer.

 
I'm with Richard on this one. It's a once in a lifetime job so might as well do it right with OEM parts. As well as peace of mind of knowing it's been done properly it will oil the wheels if/when you come to sell it and can show a prospective buyer the invoices for a proper job.

 
Not doing it right is like using water as brake fluid!

it will work for a while but soon it will be about as much use as an Amish electrician

 
I agree, best to do the job properly, for me that means using original hard pipes, not so sure about it being a lifetime fix though? I changed mine more than 10 years ago now, still good today but I doubt if they will be in another 10 years, though. Car is now 30 and it's very likely that I'll still have her in another 10 or even 20 years, therefore, I would expect to have to change the pipes again during my ownership, can't say that I'm looking forward to it, though....:(

Pete

 
I'm sure I recall someone saying that the Porsche parts now come with a join in them to negate dropping the rear beam - might just be wishful thinking though?

My mate had the pipes from tank to filter to rail and back again replaced with MSA-approved nylon braided Teflon hose and AN fittings for about £250 - might be overkill on a road car though.

 
The Porsche parts do come with a join in them but it's not for the purpose of avoiding dropping the rear beam. The join is to make it easier (read cheaper) for Porsche to distribute them around the dealer network.

Unfortunately the rear beam still has to be dropped to get the OEM parts correctly clipped into position.

 
Thanks everyone for the quick and detailed replies. I've decided to get it done properly (Porsche parts) and look forward to being back on the road - she was sounding very good ticking over in the MOT bay following recent service with new belts, dizzy cap & rotor arm.

 
Admittedly, I would do it with Porsche parts if I had to do it again (in the comfort of my garage).

But IMHO there is a world of difference between joining the pipes under the car with fuel line (or worse, jubilee!) clips and running completely new braided hoses from the fuel filter all the way to the fuel rail.

If the torsion bar is being dropped, it would be crazy not to replace the brake lines as well, while they are in there. If the fuel lines are rotted then the steel brake lines are not far behind.

 
robdimond said:
You can also replace the lines with flexible hose which doesn't require dropping the suspension at all.

+1

If originallity isn't important then simply splice in a piece of flexible hose and jubilee clips . it will get the job done for a few pounds . Or better still buy a brake and fuel line pipe kit and make up a short length of copper pipe with connectors and cut your fuel line either side of the rear axle and fit connectors to the cut ends then simply reroute and fix your fuel line somewhere safe and convenient below the suspension.

My local indie did mine for 1x hours labour with parts...well under £100.

 
I had my Lux repaired by a local garage, no issues at all with the leaking part patched. The S2 has the RPM braided stainless kit. I would go that way again, but not spend £300-plus on their kit necessarily. I certainly wouldn't pay the 5 hours labour they charged to fit their own kit! Either way, I don't see how original is any better than flexi options myself.

 
Tom, if they'd be of any use to you, I still have the fuel lines taken off my 92 built 968 cab last August, which at a guess are very similar to your 91 S2. to me they look in good nick. I'm 10 miles from J9 M20.

 
Had my complete chassis mounted system changed for nylon (same material as your fuel tank) in 1998. Its never been a problem since.

 
Paul 290T said:
Had my complete chassis mounted system changed for nylon (same material as your fuel tank) in 1998. Its never been a problem since.

Now this is a good shout, if you can find the correct fittings to do it and work out a sensible way for the flexible link from the inner wing to the fuel rail (above the fuel rail). A decent, well assembled plastic set on lines should outlive the car! i did briefly look in to this, but my local hydraulic companies generally don't want to know when it comes to automotive stuff...

 

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