Fuel pump?
- Thread starter will87r
- Start date
peanut
Active member
Hi sorry to see that you didn't receive a reply.
May I ask how you have tested and decided that your fuel pump needs replacing ? what tests did you apply ? does your car have a no start /poor running problem?
The fuel pump and fuel filter are rarely at fault and often the first things replaced, often un necessarily. '
May I ask how you have tested and decided that your fuel pump needs replacing ? what tests did you apply ? does your car have a no start /poor running problem?
The fuel pump and fuel filter are rarely at fault and often the first things replaced, often un necessarily. '
Hi guys, thanks for the reply. the car kept running for 30 seconds to a minute and cutting out, so lying under the car i could hear the fule pump start to squeel just before the engine cutting out. In order to eliminate any other faults i wired the fuel pump directly to the battery and ran the car, with same results. The pump seems to run and then seize or lock up. then if you leave it for a few seconds and start it will run again and do the same. This seems a fair indicator although more experienced thoughts would be appreciated? do you know a more reliable test? I tried running the pump backwards to clear any debris stuck in it, but to no avail.
Thanks
Thanks
You sound about right to me.... call Alasdair
Mike
Mike
peanut
Active member
before you decide I would suggest you disconnect the test nut on the fuel rail and attach a length of garden hose into a clear container. Remove the DME relay and jumper pin 30 to 87b which will put your fuel pump onto continuous. See what delivery flow rate you get in say 30 seconds
I'd also attach a fuel pressure gauge to the same test point and see what fuel pressure you get . You could also then do a fuel pressure leak down test .
You should be able to use an old fashoned tyre air pressure gauge for the test and they only cost about £5.00 on ebay.
I'd want to eliminate the FPV ( fuel pressure valve ) and the fuel pump non return valve before shelling out on a new pump
I'd also attach a fuel pressure gauge to the same test point and see what fuel pressure you get . You could also then do a fuel pressure leak down test .
You should be able to use an old fashoned tyre air pressure gauge for the test and they only cost about £5.00 on ebay.
I'd want to eliminate the FPV ( fuel pressure valve ) and the fuel pump non return valve before shelling out on a new pump
peanut
Active member
depends on the car model and pump type but generally if your pump can deliver nearly 850ml 28.7 fluid ounces in 30 seconds the pump is supplying more than sufficient fuel. I used a clear 2lt plastic coke bottle. Be ready to pull the bypass link wire out of the DME socket cos it pumps awful fast !
Have a look on Clarkes Garage under the Garage Workshop Manual in the fuel section
http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Have a look on Clarkes Garage under the Garage Workshop Manual in the fuel section
http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
