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G3 rubbing compound

dann944

dann944

New member
I'm gonna have a go at restoring the paint work on the '44

any tips from people that have used G3 on their cars??

D.
 
I think G3 is a fine compound but you would probably get best results using a rotary, or is that what you were intending? You could try it my hand but it may take some elbow grease and these German Porsche paints are hard.

You may not get rid of some of the deepest scratches on the paintwork when polishing by hand but you can round the edges off them considerably making them alot more difficult to see and therefore less noticable. I've achieved results I'm quite pleased with using Sonus SFX1 and SFX3 (by hand), but there are alot of compounds out there to choose from.

If I were you I'd do the whole wash, clay, polish (correction then finish) thing and then protect with an LSP like a hard wax or paint sealant, I use Optimum Opti-Seal (sealant) and its great.[:D]

Edd
 
As said, G3 works well with a mop. To get a polished shine from G3, it's best to use G3 liquid which is meant to leave a 'polished' surface, leaving your sealer to go on top.

Well worth trying on your own. I took years off the paint on my MGB once I mopped it.
 
Cool thanks for the request i have just ordered a rotary mop online and some G3 liquid, hopefully it will just be a paint touch up after that and not a full paintjob :)

Dann
 
Apply the G3 to the car with a moist cloth (doesn't have to be dripping wet but a bit more than just damp (soak it and wring it out a bit)) Before using it on the P&J practice on somewhere less important (offer to polish the neighbour's bonnet for nothing!) Don't let the mop head get too hot.
You may find Farecla G6 is a better alternative, much less abrasive.

Take some before and after pictures.

Cheers,
 
Be careful and keep the mop moving all the time, watch corners and bends and edges as you`ll strip the paint off far easier than you can imagine.
 
As proof that the warnings are well founded, even from those that think they are capable of being careful, hands up all those that have gone too far with cutting compounds?

Um...[:eek:]... yep...

Oh... and that was by hand...
 
You have to be extremely careful with the mop head too. Its very easy to damage the edge leaving it useless...
 
Yes, must use masking tape to cover all the panel edges. TBH I haven't got on too well with G3 liquid, G10 though I found to be really really good and be worked very hard until it breaks down. The problem with G3 is it dries up really fast but then as you add water it just runs/washes off in clumps etc. If anything I prefered using it by hand. I use a little spray bottle to keep the pad cool. My brother told me though that when they used that stuff in the bodyshop they would just go hell for leather and keep dipping the pad into a bucket. Full on mess approach, perhaps I was just trying to be too careful. I can recall the 2 of us using G3 on the S2 several years back in this way, it created one hell of a mess but it worked really well.

This reminds me I need to sort out all the scratches on my 968.
 
If the paintwork was as faded as it was on my MGB (and that wasn't mega dull), going by hand will take the best part of a day if not longer (I remember when I did my old MGB). G10 didn't do much nor did AG Super Resin. G3L helped get the shine back alot and then AG SP put the finishing touch on it eventually.

I used to believe the horror stories about what could happen. Yes you can burn the paint, but the times that I have done it, it has been fine. You do have to keep an eye on corners (I do them by hand), but it can restore faded paint quite quickly. The way you guys go on, it sounds like an exact science[;)]. G3 can come off easily, but it's best if you do one panel at one time, and keep the panel/pad lubed up with soapy water.
 
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