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Gear Leaver Stiff Techie Help Please

carlmthompson

New member
Hi,

Second post, very new!

My car's gear leaver doesn't return to centre - i.e between 3rd and 4th. Any ideas? Apparently there's a spring somewhere but the workshop manual is specifically unspecific where the sodding spring is. Also, sometime it does return to centre, usually when warm.

I've tried a bit of WD40 on the linkeage at the gearbox end, but to be honest, don't know enough about the set up to make a call!

Any ideas? Am I looking at a big bill, or could it be something simple?

It was picked up in the last service (listed on the bill), and mentions dropping the gearbox to fix it. Is this necessary do you think?

Help me please!

On the plus side, the wife won't drive it until it's fixed :)
 
The spring is inside the gearbox, however, my lux used to do this if it was left standing for a while. Spraying the linkage on top of the gearbox sorted it, but it is akward to get at, the linkage passes through the flange were the torque tube attaches to the gearbox and there are various linkage bits and bobs on top after it exits from the flange.
there is a pic Here its not that clear but the shaft (not shown) comes through from the left and joins to the rod towards the centre. Right on top in the centre there is a rubber spring thingy there is another on top on the far side, these are the ones that need lubing.
HTH
Tony
 
Thanks for that, I'll give it a shot. I only gave the WD40 a chance when I remove the nearside rear wheel, so only hit the parts I could see - didn't see anything above the gearbox but will look properly next time.

Analysis sounds spot on, as the car has only done 12k since march '01.

God damn sunday drivers! (Like me for this car but never mind) :)
 
Try grease spray on the linkages, you can get a can from Halfords for £3. WD40 will loosen them up but it will evaporate leaving the linkage dry.

Got any pics of your New Turbo.[:)]
 
Its not my picture, it came from the web, but it looks like a tray of allen keys to me.
Tony
 
Hi,

Picture below.

It's not perfect, but for a 14 year old car with 80k, it's about as good as it gets without going concours (and I would hate that as i want to use it!)

It needs a couple of bits and bobs, but has a full OPC history, and all of the bills & MOTS from the second owner on (the first owner was Porsche GB!)

0CB05CAF9CD64CA3A42EFC25A2F45BE0.jpg
 
Sorry I meant it needs a couple of bits and bobs fixing - really little bits, like there are a couple of dints in the roof (only the size of a 50p piece!), and the same on one of the rear wing edges. I'm not sure wether or not to get these sorted or not as all of the paintwork is original, and they're not that bad anyway.

Obviously the gear linkeage needs sorting, as well as a small engine oil leak (from somewhere high up at it hits the exhaust when it drips!) It's only about 3 drips a day (the dipstick level hasn't noticeably changed!)

One of the indicator lenses is cracked, but I'm splitting hairs really!

I do want a couple of bits for it - I'm after a second set of wheels for track days (the orignal wheels on are in really good nick ,so I don't want to spoil them!)

I'm after a three spoke wheel, as the orignal porsche 4 spoke one is a bit thin (and is the only thing that dates the cockpit by any significant amount!)

I've just got a Linen Leather Gator to replace the original black item that was a bit worn anyway. I've also just got a set of quick release battery terminals, as the original Porsche alarm seems to drain the battery within a week! I've heard people talking about battery conditioners on this forum, and this looks like it might be a better solution (enabling me to arm the car!)

Other than that, I want to keep it looking standard - I do intend treating it to some engine mods, but nothing rediculous - something along the lines of a new waistegate and chip, but I'll wait a while for this until the other gate is worn.

I've contacted my local OPC for it's next service (not due till April), and they've quoted £270 inc for a 12K service, plus another £30 inc for a coolant change. Does this sound okay? It was cheaper than I thought it would be, but to be honest, I service my other cars myself so don't know how much is reasonable!
 
Thanks for the pic - missed this first time round (the green for links looks very black on my monitor!)

Definately didn't spray that bit - will give it a go with some WD40 to give it a clean, before giving it a good blast with some grease spray (thanks Andriko)

Now all I need's a dry day to take it out the garage!!

Have attached a picture of my new gear gator for anyone who's interested - a dodle to fit (if a little fiddley).



20AE2C4AF3724ADD9C93CA5C7173FD57.jpg
 
Be careful with the battery isolator because once the battery is isolated you cannot open the boot, the latch is controlled by an electric motor [&:] whether you use the interior button or the key. To open an isolated boot you have to crawl through from the rear seats then pull down the boot carpet and pull on the wire cord that runs from the motor to the actual latch.

That service price sounds very reasonable from an OPC. An S2 should need approx 4 hours for a 12k service so they must be charging you approx £50 an hour then £70 for the parts - oil, oil filter, air filter, plugs. Make sure that price does include the parts. It is worth double checking that they do regularly see 944's as most OPC's do not anymore.

I personally would prefer to use an independant specialist as a good one will see many more 944's than an OPC and will therefore be a 944 expert.
 
Thanks for that.

I know about the electronic release - after the last time the battery went flat, I had to crawl through to open the boot - not to difficult, but not much fun either!

I'm going to get a conditioner at some point as that sounds like a better solution, and will allow me to alarm the car.

As for the price, I confirmed that this included everything - parts, labour and VAT.

As the car has full OPC history, I'd rather keep it that way, but as it happens, we don't have many (if any!) Porsche Specialists in Newcastle, so there's not much choice anyways. If anyone knows different that would come in handy!!

The guy I spoke to knew his stuff - he even mentioned that the blead screw on the coolant change might be a problem if it hadn't been changed for a while (it has as it happens) - apparently they become a problem to get out when they haven't been moved for 5 yrs or so.

The list in the service manual for the 12K is pretty long, so it sounded like decent value to me - if it's 4 hours for an S2, I would expect a little longer for the Turbo, as there's a few more items to do on the check list.

I'll let you know how it goes - I haven't tried for a bit more discount with the PCGB membership yet either, so I might try and get another 10% of the parts! you never know!!

 
There is a post in the drivers side scuttle area with a blue plastic cover - if you attach some jump leads (negative to engine positive to the post) you can open the boot. You may be able to start it but I would prefer to do that direct to the battery.
Tony
 
Thanks - I'll have a look for that. Might be slightly difficult to get at as my garage is quite narrow, but might save me crawling through the boot (i'm not as young as I used to be!

I'm guessing it was put there to start the car (BMW have the same sort of thing under the bonnet).
 
Carl,
Where is the blead screw on the coolant, I must be blind i cant find it[&:].
Theres a yellow sticker near the bonnet catch thats shows a diagram of where it is, but i can't understand what the picture is showing. I bet its really obvious[:D][:D]
 
Errr,


Not as easy as it sounds. The workshop manual is specifically vague, and I've not take a look ,myself. The story goes (although Im sure someone will correct me!)

Up until Model year 1989, there were two bleed screws - one on the crank case, and one on the radiator (which make ssense!)

From 89 on, the crankcase bleed screw was discontinued, and moved to the water pump housing, although it says that this is for Turbo models only, so it gets a bit more confusing!!

Rather than trying to explain more (blind as I am by not actually having had a look yet!!), i've attached an image to this message, and one to the next from the workshop manual - if it makes it clear to you where the pictures are located, I would be grateful if you'd tell me, meaning I wouldn't have to hunt around [;)].



43B285168CA5484AA8AE5A5A7DD15B23.jpg
 
Not sure about the s2 (or that picture) on the lux it is at the front of the head on top of a coolant elbow, on the turbo it is in a similar place but on the side of the coolant elbow almost under a hard pipe (to the intercooler) and often hidden by the number 1 plug lead,
Tony
 
Thanks for the reply - allowing me to post he second piture!!

As I said, haven't had a look myself, but am assuming they're both at the bottom somewhere[:)][:)]
 

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