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gear shifter

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hi

i have a lot of wear on the gear shifter where it conects to the gear shift rod (the gear stick has about 3" sideways play when in gear) is there anyway of repairing this or is the only answer to replace it with a new one? apart from the conection to the gear shift rod what else holds it in i see there are two bolts at the bottom do i just undo theses and it will come out?(as i cant find it in the manual)


cheers big al
 
At the front you can replace the inner gear lever for about £35 at the same time there is a nylon bush (couple of quid) at the base of the lever which will be worn. Also the sprung washer is a few pence so worth replacing. If you are interested I have the part numbers somewhere and will dig them out.
This will improve things but not remove the wear completely as the rod that goes back to the gearbox will also have some wear in it. I did think about a repair to the linkage but decided it was too much effort for now.

In addition there is a linkage at the back of the car that wears, this comes as an assembly for around £85 and is harder to fit cos you can't easily get at it as its on top of the transaxle. this sometimes also works loose but I tried tightening mine and it broke so don't use much force.

Tony
 
hi


where you get the gear lever from for £35 also could you give me the part numbers and if thats all the cost i will just replace everything

i checked the gear linkage at the transaxle and all seems well there as far as i can tell
 
OPC - Lancaster Cambridge but mainly as they were giving me a 15% discount on some other bits ordered at the same time, the gear lever bits only 10% (PCGB member) so you nearest Porsche centre should offer similar prices.

P477.711.205.D Gear shift 25.66 +VAT (even cheaper than I remember)
P944.424.231.01 bearing shell 0.98+VAT
P900.028.005.02 spring washer 0.05+VAT
P900.116.005.02 lock washer 0.17 +VAT

Part numbers taken from invoice - my car is 1990 turbo you might want to check if yours is different - in fact check anyway I might have typed wrong!

One thing to watch out for when fitting the bottom piece where the nylon bearing goes has slotted bolt holes so mark the position before undoing. I needed a vice to assemble the new bearing o the new rod but forget exactly how it went.

Tony
 
another gearshift question... I've seen a few short-shift kits available for the 944 (although they all seem to require the gearstick/knob to be replaced). My question is simply whether it's a worthwhile option to consider?
 
I had a similar problem on my 24. It was so bad that 5th wouldnt engage if you moved the lever slowly, as the rod rubbed along the edge of the hole in the tunnel. If the mechanism is the same, and if I understand correctly, you are saying that there is lost motion between the lever and the remote rod. If this is the case then a simple improvement can be made by removing the pin from the lever by grinding off the weld and replacing it with either a 10mm or 12mm (I can't remember now) socket cap screw. It must be a socket cap because they are made from high tensile steel due to the need for the head to resist stretching when being tightened. In this application, we just require the strength of the material, as the bolt will be welded back in. Choose a bolt of sufficient length to have a plain (unthreaded) portion long enough to go through the cylindrical eye in the shifting-rod. With the faciclities available to me it was no difficulty turning a circlip groove in the right place, so you will need to get that done somehow, and when that is done, get the bolt welded into the lever. It reduced the freeplay in my gear lever by a huge amount. I would say 80%; becaue I could do the work, it cost me nothing, except my time
 
ORIGINAL: danmason

another gearshift question... I've seen a few short-shift kits available for the 944 (although they all seem to require the gearstick/knob to be replaced). My question is simply whether it's a worthwhile option to consider?

I've got one on my Turbot, and another one waiting to go on my S when I fit my new gearbox.

HERE

The one on the Turbot is very short throw and seems a bit notchy, so it'll be interesting to compare the one on the S when i fit it. Overall a significant improvement from the 'pudding stirrer'.

You do not have to change the gearstick/knob ! Fitting can be done from under the car, but is much easier on a ramp and you may have to temporarily bend the heat shield around the back box to get your arm through the gap. Make sure you lubricate the bearing surfaces (rose joints) on the linkage !!
 
Some pics of the standar rear part here and here. Didn't take any pics of the front end bits - but I probably have the old parts in the garage if anyone is interested.
Tony
 
ORIGINAL: 944Turbo

OPC - Lancaster Cambridge but mainly as they were giving me a 15% discount on some other bits ordered at the same time, the gear lever bits only 10% (PCGB member) so you nearest Porsche centre should offer similar prices.

P477.711.205.D Gear shift 25.66 +VAT (even cheaper than I remember)
P944.424.231.01 bearing shell 0.98+VAT
P900.028.005.02 spring washer 0.05+VAT
P900.116.005.02 lock washer 0.17 +VAT

Part numbers taken from invoice - my car is 1990 turbo you might want to check if yours is different - in fact check anyway I might have typed wrong!

One thing to watch out for when fitting the bottom piece where the nylon bearing goes has slotted bolt holes so mark the position before undoing. I needed a vice to assemble the new bearing o the new rod but forget exactly how it went.

Tony

hi

wow thats cheep here is a quote from Porsche-apart

Hi
We can supply a refurbished gearknob @ #48 plus vat
This is an exchange item and we charge a #25 surcharge until
your old gearknob is returned
We supply various colours
Regards Simon
 
Except my prices are for the insides and as porsche shop mention coulour I think that is for the leather outers, which are probably best sourced from a specialist, I think prestige parts were the cheapest around £30.

Tony
 
I have exactly the same problem, and have done the following to take up the slack, which seems to work, but woul appreciate any comments from 'experts'

I reduced the amount of float by using a suitable washer. Then cut a section from a 10thou feeler gauge which 'filled' the groove.

Result a non floppy gear, but am concerned now that the amount of clearance that the pin has was intended.

(I used to be indecisive, but now I'm ......... )
 
Agreed your fix is the better way.
However the eye has wear in it too, so to effect a proper repair this would need to be opened up and sleeved down again?

My 'Fix' is a bodge really, but as I don't have the facilities works. My only concern is that it is now a rigid connection, allowing rotation but no lateral movement, is this be a problem?
 
I dont think there should be any lateral movement - certainly with a new lever it almost all dissapeared - I had been thinking about sleeving the linkage as well but decided not to bother, maybe In the future if it gets bad again, or if I decide to change the clutch - making linkage removal from the car an easy option I will sleeve it with Delrin or similar.
Tony
 
Actually you would be surprised, but the pin on my lever was barrel shaped and yes the eye may have some wear, but you would not believe the improvement. Oh the ignomany!! On the P E T cd the lever has the same part number (eat dirt) as the 924, so there is another source for inspiration, but dont tell the Scrappy or the price might shoot up.
 

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