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Guru and upgrade questions?

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My car was totally standard until recently, low milage and in excellent mechanical condition.

I've now had a Guru 1a kit fitted along with a Bailey DV and a new Vacuum hose set, the car has improved immensly and although I'm not desperate to get higher BHP numbers I'm obviously interested in them. The car is booked in for a power run next Wednesday and I'm wondering what to expect.

Has anyone else had a similar upgrade and had their car tested after?

Also if you were me what would you go for next?

I'm thinking better wastegate followed by a custom remap by Wayne at chipwizards I've set myself a goal of 300 BHP and I'm hoping that's going to be enough :)

Cheers, Tim.
 
Yes i have the chips, Shims and FPR + Exhaust and deCAT pipe.

I havnt managed to get a run on the dyno yet, but i am hoping for about 300-320bhp from mine runnnig 18psi to 5000 and about 15ps > 6000rpm.

I havnt managed to get a power run yet, but i will in the next few weeks. Its more so i can check the A/F and boost leavels match what my gauges are telling me and so i can calibrate the accuboost.

The next step for me is the MAP kit, and a new wastegate. i
 
I had mine dyno'd at Jamsport in Northampton after fitting the Guru kit. I thought my wastegate was in good condition so didn't shim it (too much hassle). The dyno measured 287 bhp and 331 lbft at the flywheel, but it showed that I was making it all before 4000 rpm and that the wastegate was being forced open and losing all that lovely boost.

I stuck in 9mm of shims and now the wastegate stays firmly shut until 5,500 rpm and drops down to 14psi of boost at 6000 which is what the chips are designed to do. The car has a lot more power at the higher revs so should now be over 300bhp, but liek Slim I haven't been back to the dyno yet.
 
So what wastegate alternatives are there? I know about the DP one that Andrew sells but are there any other worthwhile ones?
I can have anything delivered to a friend in the states and hand carried over here so should be the cheapest option.

Tim.
 
Not 100% sure but i think that the one Danno does at Guru is about $180 yes dollars. If you can get away with p&p then thats a bargain. He might (like them all) need the old one back...
 
You can pick up a TiAL wastegate from someone like Speed Force Racing, with the adaptor plates for a little over $300.

Since I know personally of 3 standard wastegate housings that were cracked (out of how may that have been checked? I don't know but it's not a good ratio, possibly 1 in 10 at best) then I think the fact the TiAL is a complete new unit is a good idea. If you then find your old wastegate is sound then you can sell it on to someone else.
 
I would agree that the Tial is the current best buy. It is by far and away the most popular WG used by Turbo owners on Rennlist, and with the current exchange rate is a steal at $300 including the adpator to make it truly bolt on.

I am fairly confident you could sell an original WG in good condition on places like ebay for around £50-100 which is another bonus
 
I sold mine for £80 - given that the core charge from Promax is (IIRC) £150 even that was a 'deal' in my eyes, done for Eddie as he's another exile from the homeland.
 
They had a special over Christmas on Rennlist - I thought that they said they were going to keep it on permanently.

MySwiss on Rennlist was matching it at the time, but I don't know the URL for him/them.
 
To sum up with some final questions

Is a shimmed original wastegate in perfect order as good as a third party replacement? (If not why not?)
Is a cheaper imported Tial as good as the DP one's that can be had easily here at a premium cost?

I don't mind spending money on the right item but hate to buy the cheaper option only to wish I'd gone for the better/more expensive option in the first place.

What have those of you who have bought a replacement wastegate thought of it? , did it make a difference and were you pleased with the result?

Thanks, Tim.
 
No, a shimmed original is always a compromise. They are designed in such a way the purely spring pressure keeps them closed - a spring is an analogue device and it is bound to strart to open slightly long before you want it to. Also you can only shim so much - all shimming does is pre-load the spring by compressing it at rest, hence the travel is reduced.

A TiAL is better than the 'DPW'. It essentially works the same way, but the DPW sold in the UK (Lindsey Racing ones, I believe) are a modified actuator on the original body (hence being exchange). That means they bolt straight on, but as I said above I know of 3 cracked bodies, and how many 944 Turbo's that have been checked do you suppose I know? Can't be more than 25-30 tops, so at best 1 in 10 are cracked. The cores are crack tested before they are modified, but what's to stop them cracking afterwards?

I have a TiAL 46mm on mine and in the 3 1/2 weeks I got to drive it I was impressed, but I had a rebuilt head and turbo and an Autothority MAF fitted at the same time, so that's hardly conclusive. Loads of Titanic guys have had a "DPW & Wayne" conversion though and they raved about it. Basically you can adjust the boost and you can hold it to the redline (more or less).
 
Thanks Fen that's really useful and explains it a bit more.

So what's the advantage of the bigger Tial over the smaller?

Also if you don't mind me asking what failed on your engine?

Thanks, Tim.

20 to eight and getting quietly pissed while the missus watches Corrie :)
 
The sump failed when it met with a solid object at 70+mph [;)]

I have a bigge TiAL because Bob Watson recommended it based on experience with 962 race engines (they run 2). Seemed good enough... I don'tknow if the 38mm wasout then or not.

I guess the bigger gate can cope with bigger power, although I've seen the 38mm quoted as capable of supporting 450rwhp on a 944T and also that you want a smaller gate for higher boost. Who knows? My guess is that the bigger gate can drop boost more quickly / handle a bigger volume of compressed charge. Anyhow I'd buy a 38mm if I were in the market today.
 

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