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Handbrake Cable

scam75

Well-known member
Hi All

Handbrake cable to driver side wheel snapped today at wheel hub end. I've phoned OPC, and there is a short and a long cable. The short cable, according to OPC goes to passenger wheel and is held onto a bracket around the middle of the torsion bar with a small nut and bolt. However under my car today it looked very much like the long cable goes to the passenger wheel and the short cable to the driver wheel which seems back to front and is confusing me. The cable of mine that is snapped definitely looks like the short cable and connects with a nut and bolt.



Confused, any input welcome.

Cheers

Stuart
 
I've looked at my build pictures, to confirm, I never like using O/S and N/S because some countries drive on the opposite side :)

The long cable comes out of the handbrake lever and runs along the torsion bar to the LH rear wheel.

The short cable joins on to the bracket on the long cable and runs to the RH rear wheel.

Long cable is 95142407202 - £81.14 inc VAT
Short cable is 95142407102 - £58.62 inc VAT

Picture below - you need to reverse the image for RHD (same parts though just fitted the opposite way around).

The retaining straps (28 on the picture) are NLA, so I used some heavy-duty cable ties to stop the handbrake cable hanging down from the torsion bar. Item 21 is not required as these are built-in to the cable ends on the handbrake cable.

1725984070355.png
 
Thanks. I ordered a short cable, £51 inc vat with discount, arrives Thursday morning. Need to get it fitted before the weekend!
 
Got the cable fitted today but feck me, that is not a job to do on axle stands. I was practically licking the torsion bar with so little ground clearance. Damn fiddly as well around there and with everything about 3 inches from my eyes, it could easily be classed as torture!

Here is the old cable looking rather broken (you do have to look close as I laid the broken bit down near where it snapped!):



Not a job I ever want to to again but here is a brief synopsis.

Removed the guard plate (4 x 17mm bolts) to get access mid torsion bar to where the short cable joins to the long cable. Took an eternity to find the retaining clip with eyes so close to target and not enough room for a full finger wiggle. Eventually it came off quite easily. Then I could remove the 10mm nut and bolt that holds the cable on and remove the broken cable. Magic. So I thought, I'll just get the new cable attached here and then we are plain sailing at the wheel side to deal with the hub. Utter torture with no clearance but I finally find a way to contort myself and get the nut and bolt done up. All good. Then I have to slide the rubber boot back on the cable, as it had to be pulled back to get the cable through the tight as a gnat's chuff bracket. This took half an hour and a whole plethora of swear words to sort, did I say there was no room to work, yes I think I did!

All happy with myself at this point, I remove the caliper and brake disc, and realise all the handbrake shoes and gubbins need to come off, never mind, easy enough, done that only a few days ago. So I charge on, strip it all off and the lever bracket thing comes straight out, still attached to broken bit of cable. I have this in my hand when I realise I hadn't taken a mental note of the orientation, bollox! After much fiddling and f'king about I sussed out what was needed. Great, let's feed the new cable in now. Not great, the f'king thing doesn't go far enough to allow me to connect it! Super duper, I'm having a quick break contemplating removing the cable again (was not fun) and was most pee'd off with proceedings.

Then a bit of a eureka moment, maybe I can adjust the cable in car and let out some slack? Nope, here's a better idea, just unbolt the handbrake lever, it's only 2 x 13mm bolts and then we should be good. Anyone ever tried this without removing the seat? If not, don't, it's a nightmare. Anyway after performing miracles under the torsion bar I was undeterred, and got the thing off, seat in place, and hey presto, just enough room now to get the cable connected at the hub. An absolute canter to connect the cable back on, much like assembling a Kinder Egg toy, then set about the handbrake shoes and springs. They were not playing ball, took me ages and lots of swear words to get the bottom spring in, and then the rest was easy. Until I had to reconnect the handbrake lever with seat in place but 10 minutes of slick finger action sorted that. Time to whack the back disc back on now.

Then took another short break before plucking up the courage to try the lever, have I f'ked anything up, entirely plausible after the 3 hours of Hell and confusion I had just came through...........f it, here goes, and it worked! How good did that feel!

Back to the wheel and put the caliper on. Those spacer washers on the rear calipers are also torture by the way, but they gave in quite quickly thankfully. Then it was just one more potholing trip left to bolt on the guard plate and stick on a couple of cable ties to secure the cable to the beam. Boom, job done, easy!

I need a lie down.

Stuart
 
Well done,even I feel exhausted reading that! However ,that is precisely why I have a separate taller set of axle stands for jobs like that like when I replaced the rear brake pipe over the torque tube on a friends 1976 924.
 
Thanks. I can only get the car on to my axle stands at the lowest setting with the trolley jack I have, had I been able to lift it higher and use the 2nd or 3rd height settings things would have been more straight forward! I need to work out a better solution however it's high enough for normal rear end work, just not for getting as far back as the rear footwell. Thinking about it now, once it is on the stands, I could maybe lift it further on the chassis legs to put the stands up a bit. Maybe try that next time!
 
I have 2concrete breeze blocks which allow me to lift up higher in stages using my varied collection of axle stands to be used in succession picking various jacking points as necessary plus large baulks of timber all wide & long enough to take the jack & accomodate it’s front & aft movement as it lifts etc.
essential to use my wheel chocks front/ back plus I always place the removed wheel under the car as extra safety function.
Safety is paramount!
 

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