Head Lamp adjustment
- Thread starter Guest
- Start date
See this link to previous thread. Pictures included from my manual.
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=210616
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=210616
If a 997 has the same arrangement as a 996 then the correct size box spanner is not provided (8mm I think) - I had to find one at 11PM in Norway last year!.
David W.
New member
I had a "dry run" in my Box 987 last night, it's not a 2 second job as it takes a while to get the rear light cover off and on again, (which has 4 screws holding it). The box spanner and screw driver are in the tool kit. It is obviously easer at home than on the side of the road when the boot is empty as well!
DW
DW
sidicks
PCGB Member
I did mine in the tunnel on the way over to France - I don't believe that the latest version of the handbook has the instructions iin, so be careful !!
The tool kit does contain everything you need, and once you have done it the first time, it is relatively straight forward - less than 10 minutes for both lights from start to finish. The main problem I found was once I'd got the lights out and had removed the back, I couldn't see the switch that needed to be flicked despite looking for ages. Once I'd realised where I should be looking it was actually quite obvious.
I'd certianly recommend having a practice in the garage before you leave !!
Sidicks
The tool kit does contain everything you need, and once you have done it the first time, it is relatively straight forward - less than 10 minutes for both lights from start to finish. The main problem I found was once I'd got the lights out and had removed the back, I couldn't see the switch that needed to be flicked despite looking for ages. Once I'd realised where I should be looking it was actually quite obvious.
I'd certianly recommend having a practice in the garage before you leave !!
Sidicks
MarcBC
New member
An old thread, but I wanted to say I have just done this conversion (off to Germany for two days on Tuesday) and was pleasantly surprised to see how easy it was. The headlamps still appear to work!
The only questionmark is the T-O lever in my bi-xenon lights is on the righthand side of the lamp as you look into it from the back. The hand book suggests it is on the left.
The only questionmark is the T-O lever in my bi-xenon lights is on the righthand side of the lamp as you look into it from the back. The hand book suggests it is on the left.
It is fairly easy, the hardest part is worrying about the force required on the T bar to remove and replace the headllamp unit.
Interestingly it is more time consuming now as there were no screws nor provision for them on the back of the unit on my 996 C4S. The clips seemed more than adequate and I changed mine many times.
I haven't had the nerve to omit the screws on my Turbo though, even for a couple of weekend trips. Are the screws really necessary? I assume that they are or they wouldn't be there!
Interestingly it is more time consuming now as there were no screws nor provision for them on the back of the unit on my 996 C4S. The clips seemed more than adequate and I changed mine many times.
I haven't had the nerve to omit the screws on my Turbo though, even for a couple of weekend trips. Are the screws really necessary? I assume that they are or they wouldn't be there!
I suspect the screws improve the water-proof seal closure.
One thing which is not clear in the manual (mine at least seems to relate to a slightly different set of parts) and I would appreciate some confirmation of is : when you change the levers do you move both in the same direction, rather than one up, one down. I ask since I am guessing that the lever is merely moving a reflector which would imply opposite movements for left versus right. I do so little night driving that I haven't had the opportunity to notice if there is a problem with my set-up (if there is one).
MarcBC
New member
I moved both levers were in the same postion before and I moved them both to the other position, in one direction. I just went for a test beam (sad aren't I). The beam is now totally flat as it should be.
The levers do move a reflector, the one that pushes some of the light up and to the left (on a C16 UK car).
The levers do move a reflector, the one that pushes some of the light up and to the left (on a C16 UK car).
Both the levers went the same way on the basis that they were both set to "O" so I just moved them to "T".
They were fine and assuming they were set correctly in the first place (mine were) moving the levers should be uniform in the same direction although I cannot really remember. A small torch like a maglite helps to read the very small markings inside the light..
I think that you would soon find out from flashing drivers if they were set incorrectly as they are so bright!
They were fine and assuming they were set correctly in the first place (mine were) moving the levers should be uniform in the same direction although I cannot really remember. A small torch like a maglite helps to read the very small markings inside the light..
I think that you would soon find out from flashing drivers if they were set incorrectly as they are so bright!
Thanks for the confirmations - useful to check here rather than trip over a problem later... The right-hand drive builds always strike me as an afterthought so I treat anything like this with caution.
What does T-O stand for? - maybe I'm missing the obvious but if it was in english and the instructions paralled it with a like-for-like picture then I would have more confidence.
What does T-O stand for? - maybe I'm missing the obvious but if it was in english and the instructions paralled it with a like-for-like picture then I would have more confidence.
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