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Headlight Wiring (Again)

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ukporker

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Has anyone got a wiring schematic for upgrading the headlight wiring - now Iceshark is no longer with us I suppose I will have to go it alone.
I think I can work out how to wire in the Relays but I understand that Icesharks kit included an upgraded voltage regulator on the alternator - has any one got any details of this.
Cable sizes used would be useful as well.
As most of my driving at this time of the year is in the dark I have come to relise how bad the lighting is.
This seems like a good project for between Christmas and the New Year for when I get bored.
If I manage to get this done I will post a parts list etc on here as I am sure that lots of other people would like to improve the headlights.
Did Icesharks kit include an upgrade for the spot/fog lights?

Richard
1987 951
D334 MKK
Nautic Mettavic Blue
 
I did have a schematic at one point. I'll have to search my backups for it (aswell as being stuck in the garage working on my new project!). I don't have specs on the cable Dan used though. I built my own!. I do know he liked using Aero spec wiring and welding cable for the grounds/battery cabkles he did.

The uprated votage regulator won't play a part in changing the schematics. Dan changed it because the original one could have been better. I don't have one though, so maybe someone who had one can pull a part number for you.

As for the fog/driving lamps, I think he did offer a "euro" kit to some of our friends across the pond, mostly to convert their cars to allow the slightly differing circuits, but I don't believe he made very many at all. I have 100W's in mine, and they seem to run fine. If you want to do it, I would run a similar schematic to the headlight bulbs via relays which should be pretty easy to create.
 
One thing to watch is that your '87 951 may have dim dip headlamps (the pods come up and glow on position 1). This plays havoc with the newly installed relays but can be avoided by not using switch position 1.
 
I was also intending to fit one of the Iceshark kits, so now I'm going the DIY route and have managed to get the following bits 'n pieces together......

A wiring diagram was recently posted on rennlist - it quotes a part no for the Hella relays which is unfortunately only a partial match to the items in the on-line catalogue at Hella UK.

Adjustable voltage regulators are available here.

Off-the-peg wiring looms are available from Summit Racing (though check bulb type), rallylights.com (although they don't seem too happy about shipping outside the US) and possibly also Daniel Stern.

And of course all the raw materials from Vehicle Wiring Products.

I'll let y'all know how I get on...........


A6CC0C960C8A4D8BA6DA43B753813D25.jpg
 
Thanks all for your input - I see from the wiring diagram that 10AWG cable is reccomended - this translates to 6mm2 UK sizing which seems fairly mighty to me. This size would be good for alternator to breakout connection but I would think a smaller cable (4mm2) from relays to lights would be ok (I intend to use 4 30 amp relays - 1 to each mainbeam and 1 to each dipped beam) - any electrical wizards out there who would like to advise on this.

John - my headlights do come up in position 1 but dont glow - I have got sidelights in the foglamps. Is this usual or is it some strange manifestation of Porsch lighting.

Richard
1987 951
D334 MKK
Nautic Mettavic Blue
 
ORIGINAL: ukporker

John - my headlights do come up in position 1 but dont glow - I have got sidelights in the foglamps. Is this usual or is it some strange manifestation of Porsch lighting.
Click to expand...

Hi Richard,

It isn't unusual for the pods to come up at position 1. I can't remember which build years do and which don't, but I know my '88 Lux did. The dim dip is a bit more unusual and might only be on '88 Turbos.

There is a modification which stops the pods coming up at position 1. I keep saying I will do it but still haven't got around to it yet. IMHO '44s look far better at dusk with just the lower lights on and the pods down. This is also better when running poor visibility on track days as it keeps the headlamps safe from stone chips.

I'm really pleased to see that Dan's work is being continued. It is great that he will continue to be remembered for his legacy to the 944 community.
 
I'd add to the aesthetics argument (and this is controversial I know) that in daylight when it is raining or foggy or just really dull so you want lights on you can run with the front fogs on and the pods down thus keeping the lenses clean for when it's dark and you need them to see with rather than to be seen by.[FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"]I know technically the front fogs shouldn't be used, but if it's not actually dark and they are anywhere near adjusted correctly then they will not cause other drivers any problems. When I have done this I have always turned them off in favour of the pods when dusk falls.[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
 
ORIGINAL: Fen
.........they are anywhere near adjusted correctly then they will not cause other drivers any problems.
Click to expand...

I do this with the S2. The fogs are adjusted to point well below a normal aim point and from the front they allow the car to be easily seen in poor conditions but have zero possibility to dazzle or inconvenience anyone. At this level they are of course useless at illuminating up the road, but that's not what I use them for.

On very dark country lanes they are very useful to illuminate the sides of the road just in front of the car and help you gain a 'peripheral vision' of exactly where the car is placed on the carriageway while the popups throw plenty of light forward to actually see where you are going.

Which is nice [:)]
 
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