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HEATER STUCK ON HOT

Big Load

New member
hi my heater is stuck on blowing hot air in the cabin. i can cook an egg in here[:-]

the Vacuum operated heater coolant valve seems to work ok but not sure how to test it. I've also been told to replace the coolant hoses!!! anyone have a clue?????

the upper and lower collect hoses look ok are there any others i should inspect. also what is the connection between the heater coolant valve and the coolant hoses.
 
Yeah I would like someone to come forward and say they service vacuum systems for 928's. My S4 heating / cooling is all over the place and makes some funny sucking noises when starting and at low revs [&o]
 
have a look at your heater control valve and the pipes leading to it. most likely a leak. change the valve (its cheap) and see if the pipes have a leak. change them as well as a matter of course.

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc_heatv.html

 
I had the same problem in my first 928, but if it is blowing hot that means the hot water is getting where it should, but you cannot turn it off or control it. So why would you need to change hoses? Sounds a bit strange.
The vacuum system is a pain as any leak anywhere will stop the heater, cruise control and a few other things working as they are all linked together.
The best thing I did was to buy a vacuum tester, they are fairly cheap and are so helpful to pin point any leaks and check the valves work. They can be got from Machine mart ( https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/gunson-77003-vacuum-pump?da=1&TC=SRC-vacuum) and online. An alternative method is to pull the vacuum pipe out of the valve start the car and put your finger on the end and see if there is vacuum. This can be done for all the pipes.
The heater valve on the bulkhead under the air filter can be cable-tied shut which would enable you to see if this is the problem and you have a vacuum leak.
I had two of the vacuum valves in the dash leaking, a pain to get to as I had to remove the centre consul, but I managed to block them off and this then gave hot or cold. This was as far as I got before I sold that car.
Other than the vacuum side of things there are a few other checks you can do on the bulk head on the passenger side the is a vacuum connecter called the spider that has several pipes coming in and out of it, I have been told that these can be troublesome so check all the pipes are seated well. Also all of the black rubber connecters need checking to see if the pipes are loose so losing vacuum.
If you lie upside down with your head in the drivers foot well and look up there is a little black box (motor) with a linkage that comes out of the side. It is at the back and slightly to the left if I remember correctly. This is the unit that mixes hot and cold air. If this doesn't move when you move the temperature slide obviously you will only get hot air. This can be pushed one way or the other if it is not working to give you cold.
The other checks are both the internal temperature sensor, located on the dash, and the external temperature sensor located in the front passenger side wing under the light pod. Most people who I have talked to have often found this to be faulty, but if I remember correctly if they fail it usually means you get hot or cold and nothing in between.
There are links on how to get to this and other checks you can do on this site http://www.nichols.nu/tips.
Hope this helps a bit. It is all I can remember doing when I went over mine
 
Thank you James and Big Load. Lots of good tips and ideas there. I'd better get cracking!

Greg
 
Hi Greg,
my first thing is get a vacuum tester, I cannot emphasise how this makes thing so much easier. When I first had a 928 I got told this by other owners and they were right.
You can see what vacuum reading you have on different lines, also you can see if they hold vacuum, and check the non return valves and switches work.
Also I bought a cd rom of the workshop manuals from ebay, really useful as you can see what reading you should have and also how to do every job on the car.
These usually are about £5, and well worth the money.
Regards,
James
 
just doing research on this vacuum stuff and came across thsi write up. pretty cool stuff

http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1987%20HVAC%20Vacuum%20Leak%20Testing%20and%20Repair%20Procedure.htm

I'm going to buy a vac test mity vac[:D] first before i rip things out
 
That's a great write up, wish I had seen that before I just got stuck in to taking my centre console out a couple of years ago. It really covers everything.
The only thing I did different was to leave the heater control unit in place as I found that you can take the plugs of the back and lift it out in one go.
I found also that it took me a good long day to take a part and then put back together again, but I just blanked off the broken vacuum actuators as I didn't have the parts to repair them.


 
Mityvac MV8000 Vacuum Pressure Pump & Test One Man Brake Bleeding Kit Silverline

just bought this one:) before i run to Cambridge.

best start at the beginning and test for vacuum before i attempt this. thanks for all the replies so far though. i think my heater valve is working but i do have a leak somewhere. for now i have just cable tied it to allow cold/ ambient air in. i will try as well do do a write up on it then post it

once i have done my test if anyone needs to borrow it, just let me know. the only thing i ask is you pay the postage and return it in working order otherwise replace any broken parts[:D]
 
i still have not had the chance to look at it. i did cable tie the control valve which did work but need to find time to actually fix it. [:(]
 

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