Heel and toe - have you adjusted pedals?

Guest · Dec 1, 2005

All, After many months of ownership I remain frustrated by my ability to heel and toe precisely/consistently in the 993 (LHDs seem slightly easier) even when deliberately wearing low-profile shoes (size 10, so should not be restricted by simple dimensions). I am able to do so comfortably in other cars I have experience in, e.g. the TVR pedal box which I find very natural. My independent tells me that my 993 pedal box is at "standard" settings, so I wanted to find out whether anyone has found a better setup and how adjustable the box is? Any thoughts appreciated.

Sundeep · Dec 1, 2005

very trcik pedal design, I'm sure I could figure it out with lots of prastice...

although based on my attempts so far, I think my right leg needs to be at least half a foot longer for it to work ? [

]

vic cohen · Dec 1, 2005

Dont worry ur not alone ...............there is some adjustment to bring the accelerator pedal up , just pop it off at the pedal and unscrew rod as far as u can ..................when u hit the brake pedal hard enough the levels do match up , but thats a bit of a catch 22 if u still 'learning ' how far to go
Alternative , big pedal screwed on may help , but build the pedal up , and the levels will equalise , hopefully making it easier ....................i roll the outside of my foot , no idea what happensif u actually do mit the other way

38F3E1 · Dec 1, 2005

I find it an absolute pig on the 993 where as on an early 911 its as easy as pie.

38F3E1 · Dec 1, 2005

I am talking RHD in both cases.

oliverjamesthomas · Dec 1, 2005

The easy answer is machined aluminium pedal covers that are purpose designed for the job. They allow you an increased surface area that actually makes the whole thing an awful lot safer, (I've seen the results of a driver's foot slipping off the brake and fully onto the accelerator - ouch, springs to mind....!). I mainly drive wearing leather soles and even in the wet don't have any problem.

From my perspective, I find the accelerator pedal height fine, although I can't honestly say if it has been adjusted prior to my ownership. It sits further to the bulkhead than the brake and I find that once the slight 'slack in the brake pedal has been taken up and the brakes are biting reasonably, I,m able to heel/toe quite effectively.

Regards

vic cohen · Dec 1, 2005

I drive an older 911 to work and back currently, agree no prob watsoever , it is indeed harder IMO on the 993 but Mo will corroborate it works on Track days ..........except when u take both hands off the wheel , but thats nothing to do with the pedals..................in fact apiece of advice from Nick Faure !

Guest · Dec 1, 2005

OJT, I was not sure from your post whether you actually use these after-market pedals yourself? In any case, do you know who supply/manufacture them - I may try...

Thanks to all for the advice so far

oliverjamesthomas · Dec 1, 2005

Jonathan

Yes I do use a set, similar to these:

www.hargettprecision.com/Pedals.htm

Regards

Guest · Dec 2, 2005

I find the pedals are too far apart for my size 10s. To get partial coverage of the accelerator pedal I have precious little coverage of the brake. OJT's race-style pedals look like they'd do the biz.

Pro tem I'm taking small comfort in that 'Roadcraft' says don't brake and change gear at the same time... BTW, best set-up for H&T I've come across was in BMW 3-series 1997, you know the er, EXX variety.

Guest · Dec 2, 2005

OJT, that Hargett gear looks v good value. You say your pedals are 'similar'... but not the same? Hargett ones OK for RHD, d'you know?

Pickled Piper · Dec 2, 2005

ORIGINAL: std70040

BTW, best set-up for H&T I've come across was in BMW 3-series 1997, you know the er, EXX variety.

Funny yo should say that. The best pedal layout for H&T I have ever come across has been on an E36 BMW.

pp

oliverjamesthomas · Dec 2, 2005

Peter

There is no difference between pedals for either LHD or RHD. Whilst the ones in my 993 aren't from this company, I have actually purchased a set in the past for a project car I'm fettling. The two sets are 99% the same, the only real difference being the pattern of the drilling. Sizes are an exact match and they're a hell of a lot cheaper than pedals from some of the better known manufacturers - Bonus!!![

]

Regards

Guest · Dec 3, 2005

Yes OJT, those Hargett pedals look v good value! Would you recommend Race 1 over Race 2 or vice versa? Or are the differences purely cosmetic?

BTW, how much drilling is required? Tricky job...?

Guest · Dec 3, 2005

ORIGINAL: Pickled Piper

ORIGINAL: std70040

BTW, best set-up for H&T I've come across was in BMW 3-series 1997, you know the er, EXX variety.

Click to expand...

Funny yo should say that. The best pedal layout for H&T I have ever come across has been on an E36 BMW.

pp

Yes, PP. H&T-ing was natural, easy and rather a joy. I always positioned my foot on the brake pedal ready for it.

oliverjamesthomas · Dec 3, 2005

Peter

I think the difference between Race 1 and Race 2 is purely cosmetic. Mine are the Race 1 version and I don't seem to remember there being another version, so perhaps 2 is a new style. Fitting is a doddle - just backbreaking, because you're bent down into the driver's footwell! Two machine bolts for each cover, six holes to drill and two pedal rubbers to remove - easier than polishing!!!![

]

For what it's worth, the machining on them costs peanuts, so perhaps they'd be interested in a bulk sale if there's more than one of you interested.

Regards

mmylonas · Dec 4, 2005

All of you having problems have probably tried this already (and with finely shod size 8's maybe I have an advantage..) but if you try rolling your foot over onto the accelerator to touch it with the outside edge of the shoe while keeping pressure on the brake rather than actually "heel & toeing" you may have more luck. An instructor friend pointed out that heel and toeing was born in the days when the pedals were so far apart that an aspirant racer literally had to keep a toe on the brake and stretch his/her foot sideways across in a desperate attempt to make contact with the accelerator and give it a stab. No pedal extensions then. Had to do it in an old Alfa I used to race. Nightmare.

These days the pedals are so much closer together it's easier just to roll your foot over. And on track days and fast road driving I haven't had any problems.

Good.

Melv · Dec 4, 2005

Assuming the set up is the same for the 964?

Get another accel pedal rubber and stick it over the extg rubber to bring the level up.

Fit metal pedal cover over the brake pedal offset slightly to the right -works a treat on my car.

BTW -the metal of the pedals is extraordinarly hard -I got thru TWO toughened drill bits fitting ONE cover!!

Yes -H&T probably not so appropriate on road these days and 'Roadcraft' and 'IAM' preach braking and changing gear separately -but useful on the track to bring the revs up to suit a lower gear. They also preach 'brakes for slow, gears for go.'

Interesting talking to my 17yo who is currently having driving lessons -he is encouraged to go from fourth to second where appropriate and not change down thru all the gears.

Make sure on track if you are not H&T ing that you brake BEFORE changing down or there is a risk of locking up the driven wheels when you let the clutch in in the heat of the moment.......and for those of you who have stamped on the brakes in a kart on the turn in you will know the consequences!! [

][

]

LK_991GTS · Dec 4, 2005

ORIGINAL: mmylonas

An instructor friend pointed out that heel and toeing was born in the days when the pedals were so far apart that an aspirant racer literally had to keep a toe on the brake and stretch his/her foot sideways across in a desperate attempt to make contact with the accelerator and give it a stab.

Often too the need for heel and toe was because the throttle pedal was in the middle with the brake on the right.