Menu toggle

Help needed

Guest

Guest

New member
Hey all. Now i know you'll all roll your eyes, but there's this noise coming from the back and i'm after suggestions as to what it may be causing it.

It's coming from the back, i'm pretty sure it's the drivers side (O/S) and it's a loud knocking. Not a consistant knock, knock, knock. Just now and again, intermittantly. And it's loud!! A loud metallic knock. I've had the wheel off the disc, the hub everything. I've checked the bearings and have repacked them. And now i'm stuck.

A clue may be that when it does knock there's a slight shimmy from the rear, and it has started to wobble a bit now and again.
I'm not going to drive it now till i've sorted it so can you help point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance
 
If you are sure there appears to be a shimmy or shake at the time if the noise it sounds like something is loose or broken, i would jack up the rear of the car support it on jack stands and use a jerry or breaker bar and pry / lever all the fixing points and bushes to see if anything is doing what it shouldn`t. i did have a case one day as silly as it sounds that i forgot to tighten the bolts on a brake caliper, did make a noise like yours not only when i was braking but in between times of breaking as well, good luck....
 
Thanks for the pointers lads. I don't think it's the cv joints, although i may be wrong. This is a different noise. It's best described as sounding like a hammer striking a wheel very hard. And there's a deinite shimmy from the back when it happens.
I've done a lot of hunting for it but it still evades me. Rob i'll do as you say and check everything is tight. Would anything in the suspension cause this?
 
Hi Darren,

Check the exhaust is not hitting something - this can often be overlooked and mis diagnosed as suspension or handbrake shoe noise.

Otherwise, raise car from the ground at rear and support on axle stands at the correct chassis points. This will allow the suspension to relax and the wheels to extend away from the chassis. Get a large long wooden beam (tree supports are ideal) and start levering the suspension arms etc. (gently) to see if any slack or play is evident. Also check damper mounts are not loose.

Difficult to know what to suggest without hearing or seeing the car. Where are you located?

Regards,
Andrew
 
I'm man enough to admit when i'm wrong so aplogies to the first chap. I did a lot of checking today and the last thing i did was get it up on stands and thenstart the engine and put it in gear. One side was fine, the other side where thenoise is coming from is a different story. The good side wheel flys round where as the bad one struggles, A LOT!!! It just chugs around. So there's the problem, either the drive shaft or the cv joints.

Anyone got a spare unit? I'm going to have a go myself, it really looks quite straight forward (Famous last words). Is there anything to watch out for? Or where would you suggest i get the replacement parts?

Thanks for taking the time to help lads. i really appreciate it.

Darren
 
ORIGINAL: Darren

I'm man enough to admit when i'm wrong so aplogies to the first chap. I did a lot of checking today and the last thing i did was get it up on stands and thenstart the engine and put it in gear. One side was fine, the other side where thenoise is coming from is a different story. The good side wheel flys round where as the bad one struggles, A LOT!!! It just chugs around. So there's the problem, either the drive shaft or the cv joints.

Anyone got a spare unit? I'm going to have a go myself, it really looks quite straight forward (Famous last words). Is there anything to watch out for? Or where would you suggest i get the replacement parts?

Thanks for taking the time to help lads. i really appreciate it.

Darren
Click to expand...

It is an absolute peice of cake to change the C/V joints, but check it is the joint, as your post does not make it clear if you restrained each wheel in turn to check for drive. The effect of the diff would be for one wheel to get all the drive and one to barely move, unless the transaxle has LSD
New joints may now be supplied filled with C/V joint grease, mine weren't when I did my 924 many years ago, but grease was supplied. Get the correct splined key to remove the bolts, and buy 24 new bolts. The joints are retained by circlip each end, IIRC. I did all four on my 924 in less than a Sunday morning, and it was all un-emotional and completely stress free. A quick look a "you know who's" shop show me that they are the bargain of the century because I damn-well paid £46 each for genuine Lobro joints back in 1989, and here we are 18 years later and "dearest shop in the uk"shop still only want £46 per joint, or £60 odd for the turbo. Add your vat of course, but still hardly a swinging increase in all those years. Got to be worth doing the four then. Torque the new bolts up to 36 lb/ft
Happy Easter[sm=spanner5.gif]
 
Would definitely recommend EMC - sensible pricing plus s/h bits off the race cars they are prepping, not to mention Kevin's patter thrown in for free and a look at the cars they're working on!
 
Check the switches are connected/put back together properly on the drivers side as the passenger side will definitely not work if that isn't connected properly (they run in series - I believe anyway).
 
Plenty of generic battery operated units for sale on ebay but if its in the garage currently stick it on axle stands and take the wheels off, harder to move and no dead weight on your tyres during the winter.
 
Waste of money. Car thieves nowadays are either opportunists who would give up as soon as they cant start it or the alarm goes off, or pros who steal cars to order who you have little defence against as they will break into your house to get the keys. Just keep your keys in a safe place, you'll be fine.
 
If concerned you could maybe look for a cheap wireless household alarm system to put on the garage so it goes off if anyone breaks in, (or you forget to disarm when opening the door [:D]). Sensors connect wirelessly so very straightforward to install. May put anyone off breaking in and even just nicking anything else you've got in there like tools if they see the siren/bell box externally. There seem to be some on eBay for around 60 notes, no idea how good they are, or even a just a dummy bell box with flashing LED's ?

Mind you'd need to be careful you didn't get false alarms if any rodents get in there, but then maybe it would a useful warning they had. They managed to get everywhere in our Boxster one year, fortunately without any major damage to it, but shredded scarves, fleeces, nest in the pollen filter, and **** absolutely everywhere, really nice clean up job!!
 
1bogis said:
Would just removing the DME relay disable the car?
Click to expand...
Yes. Even disconnecting the battery will deter most thieves. This sounds like a local gang and likely to be caught before long.
 
1bogis said:
Would just removing the DME relay disable the car?
Click to expand...
Yup, it's what I do if I ever go on holiday without the car.

But please don't laugh when I tell you the time I came back from holiday and couldn't start the car. Took me ages to gently push the car out of the garage and I even enlisted the help of a neighbour to push me up and down the road trying to bump start it. Only when we were both thoroughy knackered did I remember I had taken out the DME relay [&o]
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Porsche
Lockton
Pirelli
Officially approved
Oracle Finance
WEX Esso
Collecting Cars
Archant Dialogue
Back
Top