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Help required - Hatch release

Mike_Pollock

Mike_Pollock

PCGB Member
Member
Hi All

My electric hatch release has just stopped working - no idea why just stopped working.

I've checked all fuses and they're ok - there is 12v at the switch and motor, motor works when 12v connected to blue wire (switched live) at motor, switch works as it should when removed on the multimeter, blue wire tests ok for continuity (switch to motor), all the wiper arms on the gear look good, earth is good, white wire tests ok for continuity- switch to motor.

hatchrelease.jpg


I am now stumped!

Any suggestions gratefully accepted!
 
Hi Well you seem to know what you are doing, so I may not be of any help except to direct you to the mechanical side of the boot release. I found when ours was not working that first the ignition had to be on to operate the small motor at the boot end, but I found that the cable had come away, re attaching the cable with the metal part of a chok block did the trick.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Keith.
 
Hi Keith
Thanks for your time and thoughts, however the mechanical side of it is fine and I can even get the motor to turn -but not from the switch!

And its driving me mad!
 
I know how you feel, the switch is some how linked through a safety mechanism so that the boot can not accidentally be opened when on the move if the switch is operated. Could only get ours to work when stopped and ignition set to axillary.
Relax and carry on.

Keith.
 
Thanks Guys
Mine is a very early car , the first with the internal release, and as far as I can see there are no interlocks and the key in the boot lock is entirely mechanical.
Everything tests fine but just doesn't work together!
 
Sorry cant help, but are you sure you have the right drawing as that shows two switches. One on the boot key and one for the switch in the footwell. You say the early cars dont have a switch on the key, so maybe different wiring??
 
Pretty sure its the right one.

The switch in the boot area is actually within the motor unit itself, the arrangement that allows the cam to complete only one rotation per press of the button.

I know the lock pretty well as I had to rebuild the whole lot (as well as the rest of the locks!) when I got the car.

More fiddling has shown the live to the switch is intermittent, so I have isolated it either end of the dash, and picked up a convenient permanent live, so problem solved!

Thanks for all your inputs.
 
it sounds like you are almost there.
Ok I've rewritten this so that hopefully it makes sense........[;)]

The motor is constantly earthed via terminal 3 (T3)

There is a constant +12v sitting on terminal 2 (T2) of the cabin push button switch

There is a constant +12v sitting on terminal 53a (T53a) which is disconnected from the motor by the internal switch (see diag motor at rest ) .

When you press the push button in the cab the switch connects the +12v from B/1 sitting on terminal 3 (T3) via cable to terminal 53 (T53) on the rear hatch motor. Because the motor is already earthed it starts to turn one revolution. After the motor has turned a few degrees the +12v from T53 is disconnected within the motor and the +12v sitting on T53a is now routed through T31b to T5 then to T2 and then back to T53 thus supplying the hatch motor with a second +12v to replace the lost supply through the push button switch.
When the motor turns 360 degrees back to start position the internal +12v supply from T53a is disconnected and the motor stops unless you are holding down the push button when the process starts over again.

b****r sorry Mike I missed the part of your last message saying 'problem solved' maybe note in the title or first post might prevent others typing their digits to the bone [&o]
 
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