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Help with 964 Turbo 2 running problem

Beebop

PCGB Member
Member
I have a 1991 LHD 964 Turbo 2. When I bought is 18 months ago, there was a slight hesitation and a slightly "edgy" push in the back with the turbo on boost.

This was quickly diagnosed and corrected - but not quite. This has been the case 3 times since now. It's driving me batty. Each "correction" improves the performance (I suggest by means of improving something else but not addressing the root cause) - but that slight uneveness remains.

I have had the metering unit, injectors and regulator all renewed by Bob Watson.

I have had the wastegate replaced by a Tial unit, a manual boost control fitted, the bypass valve renewed, secondary fuel pump renewed and an electrical supply to the FI (not sure what) by Jon Mitchell.

In two further attempts to locate the problem, Jon replaced the cap, the rotor, checked and renewed the ignition ends, replaced various vacuum pipes, intake-to-intercooler seal and blanking caps.

The ignition leads were replaced in 1994 at the Stuttgart factory, but have done only 20,000 km since. These were measured by Jon as nearing the upper limit of the resistance range but not outside the range.

Another specialist near me thinks it very unlikely that the leads will be the problem - not impossible, but down the list of other causes. So, I am loathe to swap the leads on another goose chase (over £450 fitted); OK if I was confident that this would fix the problem.

The boost is set to about .85 - so fairly modest and shouldn't be "blowing out" the spark.

Has anyone any ideas what the problem could be? And who could you recommend me to take the car to? I live near jn 17 of the M4. Bob Watson is quite some drive from me; likewise Jon Mitchell. There's also Autofarm and Northway, both of whom are nearer. I'm really looking for someone with good experience of the Turbo 2.

Many thanks to anyone suggesting ideas of who/how to track down and cure this.

Iain.
 
I have seen this problem discussed in detail on the Rennlist forum recently.do a search there if you havnt already.good luck.
 
Hello Iain and Happy Easter.

I am not an expert but I would suggest you also check the coil. These things do fail (they crack) and and they are fairly hard to spot or are very often overlooked.

Good luck with your problem

Emilios
 
I am thinking the diverter valve. The stock plastic Bosch part is known to be unreliable.
I would buy and fit a Forge billet unit.

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=1304&product=FMCL007P

FMCL007P.jpg

 
Hi Nathan

ORIGINAL: nathan 1981 930 G50

I am thinking the diverter valve. The stock plastic Bosch part is known to be unreliable.
I would buy and fit a Forge billet unit.

I believe that the diverter valve was replaced by Jon (though I will check to confirm) - if so, it was probably by another Bosch part. But many thanks in any case.

Hi also Emilios

I presume that the coil would have been checked by Jon when he did the cap and rotor (but again I will check).

Hi also Jonny Boy,

I found various discussions on Rennlist that were similar and relevant - but none that were directly looking at this problem. Do you know which discussion, author, date or any other information that would allow me to check that I have not missed the one to which your refer?

Thanks,
Iain.
 
ORIGINAL: nathan 1981 930 G50

I am thinking the diverter valve. The stock plastic Bosch part is known to be unreliable.
I would buy and fit a Forge billet unit.


I have also replaced my stock plastic bosch diverter valve due to failure, however the symptoms Iain describes I think point more towards an electical(ish) problem somewhere..
 
Steve Bull in Devizes is very good. Maybe worth taking it there. Look in back of P.Post, usually sometimes got a small add in there. Could be worth a call.
 
Have you tried disabling the safety overboost switch ?

Simply earth the wire that goes to it.

Be very careful not to overboost your engine though. You will need to hook up a manual boost gauge to the inlet manifold and watch it while you are driving. If it goes over 1bar then you are overboosting and the switch is doing its job.

Remember that gauge in the car in the tach will not read upto 1bar.
 

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