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how do you clean a MAF?

SNDa

New member
Cleaning the mass airflow (MAF) sensor gets mentioned quite a bit when the engine seems to stutter but how exactly do you clean it? 'Cleaning MAF' in the search function doesn't provide a DIY guide, so I'm curious.
 
1) Remove MAF from vehicle
2) Spray copious amounts of carb cleaner over the entire MAF. Allow to flash off & repeat a couple of times. DO NOT TOUCH THE ELEMENT!
3) Replace

The only tricky part is finding a torx bit with a hole in the middle.
 
ORIGINAL: NXI20

1) Remove MAF from vehicle
2) Spray copious amounts of carb cleaner over the entire MAF. Allow to flash off & repeat a couple of times. DO NOT TOUCH THE ELEMENT!
3) Replace

The only tricky part is finding a torx bit with a hole in the middle.

Are these readily available from the local car shop (most probably Halfords)? I'm assuming that the torx bit is needed to remove the MAF?
 
Hmm, I don't know about the Torx bit being "readily available" - I was lucky & one came with a "every conceivable bit & a few more" kind of kit I picked up at Maplins for, IIRC, under a tenner. Carb cleaner (or Maplins electrical contact cleaner also works) is readily available. The Torx bit is required to remove the MAF from the large plastic pipe it normally sits in. If you can't get the torx bit, you could just remove the plastic pipe & spray cleaner at the MAF inside. Not as neat but should work just fine.

Just checked & it's a T15 bit you need.
 
ORIGINAL: NXI20

Hmm, I don't know about the Torx bit being "readily available" - I was lucky & one came with a "every conceivable bit & a few more" kind of kit I picked up at Maplins for, IIRC, under a tenner. Carb cleaner (or Maplins electrical contact cleaner also works) is readily available. The Torx bit is required to remove the MAF from the large plastic pipe it normally sits in. If you can't get the torx bit, you could just remove the plastic pipe & spray cleaner at the MAF inside. Not as neat but should work just fine.

Just checked & it's a T15 bit you need.
Do you have a ref. no. or description?
 
Not sure if this help

Use Shell V Power - My daughter has an Audi A3 1.8T and the engine management fault lamp indicated a fault about every 2 months and had new sensors fitted each time by the main dealer under warranty, it was running on normal 95 unleaded, the last time this happened, in desperation I suggested that she switch to V Power and within 2 days the fault had disappeared, to prove that this was not a coincidence she went back to the original fuel and the fault returned, she now only uses V Power and has not had any recurrence of the problem.[:)]
 
The MAF cannot be directly affected by fuel as it sits in the air intake, long before any fuel is introduced. The sensors you are thinking of are the Lambda (oxygen) sensors in the exhaust system which detect the levels of oxygen in the exhaust gasses. Sounds like the dealer didn't do the ECU reset & training procedure after replacing the Lambda sensor.

 
I know it does not make sense, but since changing the fuel the problem has gone away, I have checked the dealers report and it definitely sayscleaned or changed air flow sensor, they have not changed the Lambda probes - perhaps they should have![>:]
 
Hmm, the only thing that the MAF really doesn't like is oil contamination. I suppose it's possible that with better fuel the ECU has not seen a knock-sensor signal & so hasn't needed to retard the timing & that may have had a knock-on effect on the crankcase pressure which has meant less oil vapour being recycled through the inlet. It would be inteseting to see what the state of the inlet pipework is. Bet there's a fair bit of condensed oil in there...

 
Thanks for that, if it happens again I will check the inlet as you suggest and I will endeavour to speak to the technician rather than the service receptionist.

Regards
Geoff
 

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