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How I changed front Oil cooler without removing bumper

algray

New member
How I changed Front Oil Cooler without removing front Bumper



Tools needed
1 32mm spanner
2 16mm spanner
3 13mm spanner
4 10mm spanner
5 Illustration 104-05 (oil cooler Dia. From OPC )
6 WD40
7 LOCTITE 574
8 Engine Oil (for Topping up )


1. Jack the front of car( see P-car.com)
2. place Jack stands at front
3. remove front wheel
4. remove wheel arch liner
5. remove front left splitter


Before loosening the bolts on the oil cooler , I found this to be the hardest part *tip* use WD40 on the nuts on the oil cooler pipes connecting to the oil cooler, the nuts had started fusing to the oil pipe (corrosion) let the WD40 sit for awhile. *no need for a bucket or loads of papers the oil pipe should be empty [:D]. I also put electrical tape around the wheel arch edges just in case the spanner slipped.

Once you have the pipes off then set about removing the cooler.
1. Remove the two bottom left nuts which holds the oil cooler tray in place
2. unplug fan and oil switch
3. move horns out of the way no need to disconnect (electrically)
4. remove drain pipe from fan housing
5. on the top left corner of the oil cooler there is a rail with cables which is kept in place with a nut on the fan housing, YOU MUST remove this nut
and then move the rail out of the way, so that the oil cooler can be lowered without any obstructions
6. remove the left front headlight
7. remove 10mm screw there are two in there(where the headlight sits), one for the oil cooler and the other for tray with the ballast resistor.
8. this is the tricky bit, look carefully how the oil cooler sits in the tray, there are two rubber insulating feet on the oil cooler at both ends. Please note
the oil cooler is not bolted to the oil cooler tray.
9. You need lift the oil cooler out of the tray (lift above the studs at both ends of oil tray ) and at the same pull the bottom of the tray toward yourself.
10. Once you have done 9 the oil cooler can be removed with no problems.


I was contemplating whether I should replace the ballast resistor, because it looked fine, I decided to check if the resistor was OK on doing so the resistor started to fall apart. Very easy to change when the oil cooler is out.


****OPC Swindon said they use LOCTITE 574 on oil cooler thread, so I did the same ***


Parts Description

P964.207.220.02 Front Oil Cooler 964 993
P964.624.110.00 Fan SW 964
P993.616.521.01 Series Res
P999.703.323.00 004881/Rubber Buffer

OPC Swindon have been great gave me some very good advice, OPC said they can give up to15% on some parts so it always worth checking with them first.

Please do not. go driving to test without Topping up the oil. Follow instructions in the handbook on the checking oil level and topping up, I had to let my engine run for approx. 30mins to get up to temp.

***Tip ****
Wait for oil temp. to be at 9am/9pm then top up until level is at 3am/pm, I was told that is good level to for track days as well, and of course please check you dip stick, just incase you have a faulty gauge.

I hope the will help anyone contemplating a job like this, if there are any errors, or anything that I have missed please feel free to add or correct.



 

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