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How much can I do

Kongsodoken

Active member
Christmas is coming and I get my car back from the body shop next week, after a weekend of fitting the tailgate and locks back together I will be ready for a new challenge [;)]

next on my list is the engine rebuild which will include new steering rack and associated bits new clutch,master cylinders, wiring harness rebuild,ecu,brake booster and lots and lots of plating all of which I think I can cope with on my own but the engine rebuild I,m out of my depth but I want to try and do as much as I can so my question is

Can a complete novice like me remove an engine

Assuming I can [8|]can I strip it myself and then just send the bits to be rebuilt/ machine

At what stage does doing it myself reduce the quality of the finished job,

I enjoy doing everything I can myself and the reason for owning the car is to do just that

Many thanks [:)]

If anyone has a link to a picture thread how to remove the engine then please post it

 
What is required for the engine?

I'm no car mechanic but I removed my cylinder head, sent it to be skimmed, measured the valve seat wear and guide wear,lapped the valves in and rebuilt it with new seals, belts etc. If the cylinder bores are ok and you have good oil pressure maybe nothing else needs doing and you don't need to remove the engine. At the end of the day it is just a kit of parts and I'm sure you will be able to tackle it.

If you do everything yourself you can be assured of the quality (unlike some garages) and take a few pictures along the way to keep for posterity.

I would encourage you to have a go and if you get stuck there will be plenty of people to advise on here.
 

ORIGINAL: Kongsodoken


Can a complete novice like me remove an engine

Removing the engine is not too difficult as long as you have access to:

4 x axle stands
2 x trolley jacks
An engine crane
A trolley to drop the engine on to.

From memory the process as follows (I might have forgotton a couple of bits and pieces but hopefully you get the idea!)

1) Raise can onto axle stands. Remove exhaust. Remove driveshafts, Remove coupling that connects rear of torque tube to gearbox input shaft.

2) Disconnect speedo sensor and reversing light switch on gearbox. Unbolt gearbox from torque tube, lower the rear of the car down so that the gearbox is 'sat' on the trolley. Unbolt gearbox x-member, raise car, roll trolley out with gearbox on it.

3) Unbolt torque tube from engine and slide torque tube towards rear of car so that it is clear of the clutch.

4) Disconnent engine wiring loom, fuel lines, throttle cable. Support weight of engine with crane. Remove front suspension. undo engine mounts and drop-out front x-member.

5) Put the trolley under the engine and drop the engine down. Then raise the front of the car and roll the engine out from beneath:

IMG_5814_zpsca4b265d.jpg


Mick
 
Ive got major engine issues and Ive thought of removing my engine myself ,it looks a daunting task ,I hate getting under cars as it is

Ive got a second hand engine in the garage that I bought cheap off ebay (s2 engine) and its not a small unit lol

dont start it unless you really know what your getting into ,the only thing thats stopping me is removing the engine
everything I need to do I'm totally confident in doing
 
I have found from previous experience on d.i.y that the best part is that there is no rush to do the job . When it get to much walk away and tackle it again next day , sometimes it may over bare you and there for it ends up sat in your garage for years !
If you are going to do a good complete engine rebuild ? The mileage of the engine comes into play ? If the big end bearing need replacing or the con rod shelf bearing need replacing ? This might in turn need the crank grinding ? This is a specialist job and not for a novice .
Top end rebuild is straight forward , replacing head gasket and oil seals , exhaust gaskets and stuff .
Then the dilemma of entrusting some one to rebuild your engine for the right money and expect them to do it with pride .
Get recommendations of engine rebuilders from the forum ? Blue print or upgrade the pistons ?
Choices Choices
Have fun and keep us all updated with regular pics :)
 

ORIGINAL: J.C944TurboMan

I have found from previous experience on d.i.y that the best part is that there is no rush to do the job . When it get to much walk away and tackle it again next day , sometimes it may over bare you and there for it ends up sat in your garage for years !
If you are going to do a good complete engine rebuild ? The mileage of the engine comes into play ? If the big end bearing need replacing or the con rod shelf bearing need replacing ? This might in turn need the crank grinding ? This is a specialist job and not for a novice .
Top end rebuild is straight forward , replacing head gasket and oil seals , exhaust gaskets and stuff .
Then the dilemma of entrusting some one to rebuild your engine for the right money and expect them to do it with pride .
Get recommendations of engine rebuilders from the forum ? Blue print or upgrade the pistons ?
Choices Choices
Have fun and keep us all updated with regular pics :)

totally agree ,lots of reseach is like learning experience from other people issues and mistakes , dont see it as something you can do in a day or even a weekend although as for removing the engine its best not to leave it all hanging or half done ,so prep work essentail ,I'm sure you know all these things ,but parts will be your main bug bare as pistons if its a 944 engine will be matched to the bore and have tolerance groups so you need to match pistons to the bore and theyre very expensive new ,also if the alusil bores are scored then its a whole different ball game of do you repair the block or just get a secondhand engine and take a chance the same thing wont happen ,Ive been reading and searching on the internet for months ,I even bought a broken secondhand engine to have a look how to tear it down and of course there was plenty of good spare parts in there ,these arent like a conveintional engine and need alot of reading up before a rebuild is attempted
 
Thanks for the replies, I guess engine removal is within my skill set, I,m thinking that I remove all the easy bolt on bits and refurb those myself and send the block,head and cam to a specialist...

But someone tell me I don't have to remove the gearbox and torque tube to drop the engine[:(]
 
I saw a post on someone removing the engine with the torque tube and gearbox still in place. Only problem is I can't remember where I saw it!
 

ORIGINAL: DarrylH

I saw a post on someone removing the engine with the torque tube and gearbox still in place. Only problem is I can't remember where I saw it!


yes I saw that one and the engine came out the top ,but ! you's have to take them off i think to intstall it !
 
it all depends on that block mate if the liners are good your ok but if theyre scored or damaged its a whole different ball game

where are you by the way? if you need help I'm sure a few us could give a hand
 
You can remove the engine from the top, but I'm not sure if you would still need to move the torque tube backwards so that the splines clear the clutch - with the rad and fans removed there may be enough room to move the engine forward to disengage the splines but I think it would be tight.

Mick
 
If you take the power steering pulley off then the engine can come out of the top, I've done it both ways (top and bottom) both have there advantages, for example out the top means not needing to get an alignment done afterwards but means more stripping down of the engine and more risk of damage to the engine bay and things like the oil pressure sender, it also depends on the reach of the engine hoist. Taking the engine out the bottom means the car has to come apart further but the engine can stay in one piece.
The hardest bit can be getting the clutch fork out and splitting the steering linkage. It's all relative but I don't see an engine removal to be a terrible job, just one that requires patience and methodical working. An extra pair of hands can save a lot of time.
Pull the dme relay out try and start the car to depressurise the fuel rail and take your time which ever way you do it, oh and block off any open ports with latex gloves and gaffer tape.
 

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