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Immobiliser removal problem

Paul Fraser

New member
Hello all, long time since I've been round these parts... Looking for some help.

I have a '86 944 that has been lying in the garage since I moved to this house five years ago (too busy, and lost interest).
At the time the windscreen wipers and heater were becoming intermittent and then stopped altogether. Then the car wouldn't start.

Traced the problem (I think) to a badly installed Toad immobiliser that had badly mangled the wires that go into the bottom of the ignition. Bare wires wrapped round cuts in other wires, etc. I removed the immobiliser (which I am not sure was properly installed) and reconnected all the wires back into the ignition plug. Bit of a bodge job as it was hard to get them all to fit smoothly with the short length available to fit.

Also went under the fuse box and removed a T-wire from a red wire (I assume this was the ignition circuit, which I think should have been cut in half, with two wires going to the box) and reconnected the black/green wires together (the fuel pump cut).

Things I don't think are a problem:
Continuity tested the black/green wire that goes from the fuse box to the fuel pump goes into and it is fine.
Fuel pump works when 12V applied direct.
New DME relay.
New Ignition switch.

Things I think it might be:
The ignition wiring. When I put the ignition switch to position 2 I believe the fuel pump should run but it doesn't, nor do I get 12V from the green/black wire coming from the underneath of the DME relay.

Am I correct in this and does anyone know how I can work out if I have rewired the ignition plug correctly?
Should I look at putting in a new dash loom. Are they available without having mangled wiring from immobiliser installs? How big a job would that be?
Is is worth maybe getting one and splicing the ignition plug onto the current harness?
Any other ideas or suggestions welcomed; I really need to start making progress on this or it is off to Ebay or the scrappy.
 
DME does not pull in until a certain cranking speed is achieved (45 RPM) ? this in turn gives 12v to the fuel pump and pulses the ignition (Coil) also fires the injector pulse via the ECU., check out Clarkes garge for a DME bypass wire frigg which will prove the DME.
Crack the nut off the front of the fuel rail and crank with a rag over the rail as it will pump fuel if the DME is pulling in and sending voltage to the pump and provide fuel, stick a spare plug into each plug lead and earth it to the engine to check for spark (after the fuel soaked rag and any excess fuel vapours have been removed)
Fresh Fuel also helps.
 
Thanks Frenchy. Looks like I have been barking up the wrong tree with the fuel pump getting a 12V signal when not cranking. I should have tried here earlier. Will report back.
 

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