Looking at getting a 924 running which appears to be suffering from double pump failure. It has a good spark, no fuel at the metering head, volts at the pump when cranked, but no noise from the pumps. I understand the in tank pump was only required for high altitude, hot climates, and can be safely dispensed with in the UK, and indeed, I have fitted a 944 filter in place of the in tank pump and run a turbo without it without problem. My question... Is can you get away without changing the in tank pump for a strainer? Will the in tank pump allow fuel to flow despite not working? My guess is it will, and that is what happened to this car - the in tank pump failed first but it continued to run because it wasn't really needed, until the main pump failed. Anyone any experience?
In tank pump...
- Thread starter tref
- Start date
924nutter
PCGB Member
I have. My main pump was getting tighter and tighter, drawing more and more current. I had a misfire too (incorrect fuel pressure so mixture incorrect). Eventually it melted the terminal on the fuel pump relay and about one inch of the insulation. Where the pump is situated it does not have a flooded suction; when the level in the tank is say just above reserve it may well work if you are on a long journey and use the fuel, but my expectation would be difficult starting with a fuel level below the level of the pump inlet. Roller pumps do self prime well if they dry out. It may well work if you keep the tank full but I reckon go down to less than 3 gallons and you might encounter trouble. Not to mention that the fuel is the lubrucant and the pump is a flow though pump with all the internals submerged in fuel. Spark form the com, easily more than half a joule,+ fuel vapour,+oxygen entering via the inlet=? You work out if it seems dangerous. I have never heard of the pump only being necessary only for high altitudes, but can unuderstand that half way up Mount Everest the air pressure is lower so the overall pressure drop at the pump would be less. 10,000 feet is roughly what aircraft cabin pressure is maintained at (which is aorund 0.45 bar) and you have to ask why the main pump failed in the first place. If it is because of the failure of the booster pump then you are going to have a main pump faliure again because you will still be without the booster. I'll have a root around in my shed, I have one lying about which was working when I took it out as part of my process to diagnose and rectify the classic 924 hot start symptoms. I was going to say that check the connection from the coil to the tacho, as this signal to terminal 16 (from memory) on the fuel pump relay enables it, but you have said that there is voltage.
The in tank pump being a potential cause of failure I agree... The supposed danger I do not... two pumps or one pump, either way there is the possibility of someone running the car out of fuel, and at that point it will scavenge an air/fuel mix which I agree is a potentially explosive mixture... but as far as I am aware cars with this type of pump don't have a reputation for chastising their owners by exploding if they run out of fuel! Please correct my knowledge of history of the 924, but didn't they run with a single pump to start with, then change to a dual pump, then back to a single pump anyway? I am assuming the early pump is a) not available, and b) superseded because it wasn't any good and so you wouldn't want to fit it anyway, but I haven't looked for a suitable replacement pump for this yet, but there seem to be a lot of "generic" pumps of this type about... and of course, which pump will be my next question!
Obviously I would like to fit the "best" pump available... I would be interested to know what the differences are - thinking I want sufficient flow rate to ensure it meets all demands of the engine, but by the same token doesn't overwhelm the fuel pressure regulator... I assume that pump technology improved over the production life of the 924, since the 944 pump would obviously be more than capable of meeting the fuel delivery requirements (without an internal pump) but of course my fear would be overwhelming the fuel pressure regulator.
If you do have an in-tank pump spare that would be great... I do prefer to keep things as they should be!
Many thanks,
Tref.
Obviously I would like to fit the "best" pump available... I would be interested to know what the differences are - thinking I want sufficient flow rate to ensure it meets all demands of the engine, but by the same token doesn't overwhelm the fuel pressure regulator... I assume that pump technology improved over the production life of the 924, since the 944 pump would obviously be more than capable of meeting the fuel delivery requirements (without an internal pump) but of course my fear would be overwhelming the fuel pressure regulator.
If you do have an in-tank pump spare that would be great... I do prefer to keep things as they should be!
Many thanks,
Tref.
vitesse
Active member
This is all very interesting as I am trying to get a 1976 924 with points in the dizzy going for a friend who has had sadly ,a brain tumour,& now can't tackle it himself-hasn't run for 12 +yrs.
Are we talking here about Turbo 924's or any of them.
I've rebuilt the fuel distributor (don't ask) etc,checked all electrical values-get current at the points on trying to start,HT at the plugs but can't yet get it going although there has been the occasional cough-after trying.
I was getting round to thinking the old fuel was the problem-now I think it needs a lot more fuel adding to give me a chance--trouble is my friend has the car now at home in a garage enclosed within the house & he shuddered when I suggested draining the tank etc.
Have done the bit with jamjars under ea injector & now get equal amounts which accord with data over a fixed time ,but no idea of pressures.
One thing -can anyone confirm whether it matters which fuel line goes to which injector since they all pulse together & if it is important&just in case they are mixed up,is there a diagram that shows which goes to which?
This 924 seems to have just the one cylindrical Bosch style pump external (it whirs with ignition in start position,but not just with ignition on ) & there are 2 regulator type thingies mounted in the fuel lines after the pump.
Are we talking here about Turbo 924's or any of them.
I've rebuilt the fuel distributor (don't ask) etc,checked all electrical values-get current at the points on trying to start,HT at the plugs but can't yet get it going although there has been the occasional cough-after trying.
I was getting round to thinking the old fuel was the problem-now I think it needs a lot more fuel adding to give me a chance--trouble is my friend has the car now at home in a garage enclosed within the house & he shuddered when I suggested draining the tank etc.
Have done the bit with jamjars under ea injector & now get equal amounts which accord with data over a fixed time ,but no idea of pressures.
One thing -can anyone confirm whether it matters which fuel line goes to which injector since they all pulse together & if it is important&just in case they are mixed up,is there a diagram that shows which goes to which?
This 924 seems to have just the one cylindrical Bosch style pump external (it whirs with ignition in start position,but not just with ignition on ) & there are 2 regulator type thingies mounted in the fuel lines after the pump.
I am talking about a base model 924 here (I think it is about 1983), but I think the same applies. Your 1976 one is an early one, which I understand did have just one external pump, and no in-tank filter... so presumably particularly susceptible to crud from the tank. Depending upon where you are, I have a pressure test rig for it should you need it. You are correct as far as I am aware, the "CIS" bit of the K-Jetronic is "Continuous Injection System" and as it is continuous, I would also guess it doesn't matter which injector is connected where. By the way, if you have successfully rebuilt the metering head you are now a god. I have spoken to many who have stripped them down, thinking "how hard can it be?", but yet to anyone who has successfully got one back together and running! I would be interested to know more about it, as it the moment it is "just replace it" part for me.
The fuel degrading over time might have been a case once upon a time, but my 944 Turbo was stood for 3 years and 3 months with half a tank of fuel in it - I finished that fuel without problem, and carried on (I had another crashed 944 stood for over two years that started up after that time, again with the same fuel in the tank). The fact it was half-full I suspect is more the solution than a problem - I think the big problem with cars stood up is with an empty tank, cycled temperature-wise, leading to condensation forming in the tank. Water being heavier than fuel, the water collects at the bottom of the tank, where it ends up in the pump... and then in the metering head - neither of which like water. But that is an unproven theory of mine... But this is one more example I have found of a 924 stood with an empty tank then suffering pump problems, reinforcing my views...
The fuel degrading over time might have been a case once upon a time, but my 944 Turbo was stood for 3 years and 3 months with half a tank of fuel in it - I finished that fuel without problem, and carried on (I had another crashed 944 stood for over two years that started up after that time, again with the same fuel in the tank). The fact it was half-full I suspect is more the solution than a problem - I think the big problem with cars stood up is with an empty tank, cycled temperature-wise, leading to condensation forming in the tank. Water being heavier than fuel, the water collects at the bottom of the tank, where it ends up in the pump... and then in the metering head - neither of which like water. But that is an unproven theory of mine... But this is one more example I have found of a 924 stood with an empty tank then suffering pump problems, reinforcing my views...
Oh, and the running in start position, but not just with the ignition on I believe is correct - the fuel pump relay is only energised in the start position, or if it is receiving a signal from the ignition system to say the engine is turning - this is to prevent, in the case of an accident with a fractured fuel line and engine stalled for example, the fuel pump pumping the contents of the tank all over the road.
I am not sure what the second regulator looking thing is - but I believe the early ones also have a fuel accumulator at the back - this is to maintain a residual fuel pressure whilst the car isn't running, so the pump doesn't have to build up pressure before the car will restart.
I am not sure what the second regulator looking thing is - but I believe the early ones also have a fuel accumulator at the back - this is to maintain a residual fuel pressure whilst the car isn't running, so the pump doesn't have to build up pressure before the car will restart.
vitesse
Active member
Thanks Trefor?
Very interesting-the fuel regulator thingies obviously make up for the lack of initial pressurisation unlike the 924S/944's with the Motronic injection.
The problem always is -where does one start-if there's fuel,spark -but the battery doesn't really spin the engine over quick enough-no start--or is it the cold start valve sticking-no start--or the cold start injector floods perhaps-no start & so on--3 weeks ago,I suddenly thought I know it's because there is no water in the engine so no proper signal from the sensor for the cold start system-this was because there has been no tank cap on & no water visible-addition of water soon disproved that-so now I'm back to checking earth points(all rusty)--however I think after these posts ,a good start might well be the fuel tank,the pump,the actual fuel & how much is in there still & the fact that what is there could well be 12 yrs old
This weekend I'll pull out an injector(again) & check(again ) that the system is working.
As for the CIS head,it took 3 attempts to get a seal-as you probably know you can't get the thin metal shim which is all that seals the 2 castings-so absolute cleanliness-check both mating surfaces for slight burrs & I used a petrol resistant non setting gasket sealant -the main problem is that you can't really tell whether any of the sealant squeezes into the chambers & gums up the little valve like squirter jets or the tiny balance microholes in the shim.
Unfortunately,when the flow piston is seized in the valve body it seemed to me the only way to get it out--& afterwards,the system worked fine as said above as I lifted the diaphragm.
I suppose if all else fails ,the Bedford people only charge £146 or so for a rebuilt one,bench tested.
Can't describe myself as a god ,just trying to save my friend some money.
Incidentally your offer of the pressure test rig is generous-however I live in Formby-south of Southport.
Very interesting-the fuel regulator thingies obviously make up for the lack of initial pressurisation unlike the 924S/944's with the Motronic injection.
The problem always is -where does one start-if there's fuel,spark -but the battery doesn't really spin the engine over quick enough-no start--or is it the cold start valve sticking-no start--or the cold start injector floods perhaps-no start & so on--3 weeks ago,I suddenly thought I know it's because there is no water in the engine so no proper signal from the sensor for the cold start system-this was because there has been no tank cap on & no water visible-addition of water soon disproved that-so now I'm back to checking earth points(all rusty)--however I think after these posts ,a good start might well be the fuel tank,the pump,the actual fuel & how much is in there still & the fact that what is there could well be 12 yrs old
This weekend I'll pull out an injector(again) & check(again ) that the system is working.
As for the CIS head,it took 3 attempts to get a seal-as you probably know you can't get the thin metal shim which is all that seals the 2 castings-so absolute cleanliness-check both mating surfaces for slight burrs & I used a petrol resistant non setting gasket sealant -the main problem is that you can't really tell whether any of the sealant squeezes into the chambers & gums up the little valve like squirter jets or the tiny balance microholes in the shim.
Unfortunately,when the flow piston is seized in the valve body it seemed to me the only way to get it out--& afterwards,the system worked fine as said above as I lifted the diaphragm.
I suppose if all else fails ,the Bedford people only charge £146 or so for a rebuilt one,bench tested.
Can't describe myself as a god ,just trying to save my friend some money.
Incidentally your offer of the pressure test rig is generous-however I live in Formby-south of Southport.
OK, if you have the correct amount of fuel going into the jam-jars, and you have a spark, you have the ignition and fuel system working well enough to make an engine run... low pressure/high pressure etc might make a difference on how well it runs, but it should run...
I reckon you have broken the back of getting it going, assuming you have good compression on all cylinders?
Taking the slightly more esoteric approach to bringing a 924 back from the dead, I reckon that you really need to get it running in order to find out what is wrong with it... which sounds like a catch 22, and to a degree it is, but these things always go better once they are going I'm afraid!
However... to that end, things like vacuum leaks or incorrectly set airflow meters etc can all screw you over, so I would try jamming open the air flow valve a little to ensure that fuel is getting to the engine - yes, that means removing the big air hose (which could be leaking), but it means you can be sure that you are getting fuel to the injectors. Bearing in mind this also stands a high chance of flooding the engine. If you want to be really sure, do the jam-jar check and then stuff the injectors back in their little hoes and try it, because then you know the injectors are injecting fuel.
After that (or before actually) I would be double checking valve and ignition timing, and plug firing order, as these can stop an engine running which has spark and has fuel. After that, I would retard the ignition dramatically whilst the engine is cranking, just to get the thing to fire, and then have a mental not of roughly where it needs to be really, and move it back to there as soon as it is running.
When an engine fires after it has been dead for a while it usually scares the bejasus out of me and I immediately switch it off, but once they have fired once, they are usually a lot more amenable to firing up again... please excuse the Grandma and eggs scenario which is probably occurring here!
I reckon you have broken the back of getting it going, assuming you have good compression on all cylinders?
Taking the slightly more esoteric approach to bringing a 924 back from the dead, I reckon that you really need to get it running in order to find out what is wrong with it... which sounds like a catch 22, and to a degree it is, but these things always go better once they are going I'm afraid!
However... to that end, things like vacuum leaks or incorrectly set airflow meters etc can all screw you over, so I would try jamming open the air flow valve a little to ensure that fuel is getting to the engine - yes, that means removing the big air hose (which could be leaking), but it means you can be sure that you are getting fuel to the injectors. Bearing in mind this also stands a high chance of flooding the engine. If you want to be really sure, do the jam-jar check and then stuff the injectors back in their little hoes and try it, because then you know the injectors are injecting fuel.
After that (or before actually) I would be double checking valve and ignition timing, and plug firing order, as these can stop an engine running which has spark and has fuel. After that, I would retard the ignition dramatically whilst the engine is cranking, just to get the thing to fire, and then have a mental not of roughly where it needs to be really, and move it back to there as soon as it is running.
When an engine fires after it has been dead for a while it usually scares the bejasus out of me and I immediately switch it off, but once they have fired once, they are usually a lot more amenable to firing up again... please excuse the Grandma and eggs scenario which is probably occurring here!
924nutter
PCGB Member
The injection system on a 924 is of the continuous injection system, hence the term CIS; this means that fuel injection is continous, to all four cylinders and whilst it looks untidy it is not vital to the running of the engine that they all go back in the same place. Fuel pools behind the inlet valve whilst it is closed and is atomised by the injection stream when the valve opens and in practice works very well. It was on the 928 and 924 turbos too. They do not pulse!
If your fuel dispensing quantities correlate with the given values of volume over time then the pressure will be correct; flow through through a fixed orifice is dependant on pressure ergo correct flow proves correct pressure.
The pump will have a fail safe, in the case of the 1976 car, there is an earth to the metering unit housing, which when made disables the fuel pump realy, as the engine cranks and the metering plate lifts the earth is broken and the relay energises. Haynes Manual page 252 item g19 current track 15. Info only; on later cars a signal was derived from one of the coil terminals, the one that goes to the tacho. It sends a signal to terminal 16a on the fuel pump relay and when it gets either the correct voltage or maybe as in the 944 200 rpm cranking, (I don't know that exact detail) the relay is energised. It was thought sufficient that the earth be made to stop the pump in the event of an accident but it was realised that in an inverted collision with the ignition on, the pump might continue to run so a method was devised monitor the engine. Take off the banjo shaped peice of ductiing and check that the plate is centred in the plenum chamber, and that it lifts without biinding. A single peice of detritus in the bore of the metering pin will probably cause it to bind, and if you have misalgined it by even the tiniest fraction on reassembly it wont slide up and down properly. Fair play on disassembling the metering head. I have had one apart too and reassembly is not for the faint hearted or quiverring of finger.
From the pump to the metering head, there is a fuel accumulator near the fuel pump; that is all that should be there. This I believe was in line to provide a volume of fuel to stabilise the pressure as much as anything. When the engine was stopped it did help to keep the fuel line pressurised. Through out its life the 924 suffered from hot start problems which turns out to be caused by the check-valve that is screwed to the end of the pump. Once this starts to let by the pressure drops faster than underbonnet temperature and the fuel in the line vapourises so it means a lot of cranking to fill the lines back up with fuel. I will not go into it now but there is a very good method to minimse these hot start problems involving the use of the fifth injector, but too long winded unless there is a need to explain it.
Under the bonnet there is the filter and the cold start regulator or control pressure regulator (cpr). It could be that after 12+ years the cpr has stuck in the closed position. The pressusre either side of that sqaroid stainless diaphragm is contolled in a certain way. You will notice that the cpr is connected to the centre of the metering head. when the CPR is open, i.e. cold, the pressure above the diaphragm is reduced, allowing it to deflect more for a given air flow, and enriching the mixture.
Under a plug in the metering unit casting there is a 3mm hexagon socket that strictly speaking sets the CO2, by adjusting the mixture. It has a wide range of adjustment so if you think it is too lean try giving the screw an eighth of a turn in, and give it a try. Make a note of the number of adjusments you makeand don't go more than a turn and a half. If have been down this route and it is entirely possible to squirt so much fuel in you get to the threshold of a hydraulic lock. Bear in mind that in theory the mixture was correct once and would probably not have been disturbed so it was in the correct position. You are simply trying to compensate for a cpr that might not be working so if the engine does start to cough more, or even run then it is likely that the cpr is at fault.
If your fuel dispensing quantities correlate with the given values of volume over time then the pressure will be correct; flow through through a fixed orifice is dependant on pressure ergo correct flow proves correct pressure.
The pump will have a fail safe, in the case of the 1976 car, there is an earth to the metering unit housing, which when made disables the fuel pump realy, as the engine cranks and the metering plate lifts the earth is broken and the relay energises. Haynes Manual page 252 item g19 current track 15. Info only; on later cars a signal was derived from one of the coil terminals, the one that goes to the tacho. It sends a signal to terminal 16a on the fuel pump relay and when it gets either the correct voltage or maybe as in the 944 200 rpm cranking, (I don't know that exact detail) the relay is energised. It was thought sufficient that the earth be made to stop the pump in the event of an accident but it was realised that in an inverted collision with the ignition on, the pump might continue to run so a method was devised monitor the engine. Take off the banjo shaped peice of ductiing and check that the plate is centred in the plenum chamber, and that it lifts without biinding. A single peice of detritus in the bore of the metering pin will probably cause it to bind, and if you have misalgined it by even the tiniest fraction on reassembly it wont slide up and down properly. Fair play on disassembling the metering head. I have had one apart too and reassembly is not for the faint hearted or quiverring of finger.
From the pump to the metering head, there is a fuel accumulator near the fuel pump; that is all that should be there. This I believe was in line to provide a volume of fuel to stabilise the pressure as much as anything. When the engine was stopped it did help to keep the fuel line pressurised. Through out its life the 924 suffered from hot start problems which turns out to be caused by the check-valve that is screwed to the end of the pump. Once this starts to let by the pressure drops faster than underbonnet temperature and the fuel in the line vapourises so it means a lot of cranking to fill the lines back up with fuel. I will not go into it now but there is a very good method to minimse these hot start problems involving the use of the fifth injector, but too long winded unless there is a need to explain it.
Under the bonnet there is the filter and the cold start regulator or control pressure regulator (cpr). It could be that after 12+ years the cpr has stuck in the closed position. The pressusre either side of that sqaroid stainless diaphragm is contolled in a certain way. You will notice that the cpr is connected to the centre of the metering head. when the CPR is open, i.e. cold, the pressure above the diaphragm is reduced, allowing it to deflect more for a given air flow, and enriching the mixture.
Under a plug in the metering unit casting there is a 3mm hexagon socket that strictly speaking sets the CO2, by adjusting the mixture. It has a wide range of adjustment so if you think it is too lean try giving the screw an eighth of a turn in, and give it a try. Make a note of the number of adjusments you makeand don't go more than a turn and a half. If have been down this route and it is entirely possible to squirt so much fuel in you get to the threshold of a hydraulic lock. Bear in mind that in theory the mixture was correct once and would probably not have been disturbed so it was in the correct position. You are simply trying to compensate for a cpr that might not be working so if the engine does start to cough more, or even run then it is likely that the cpr is at fault.
vitesse
Active member
Thanks ,Tref & John-having stripped & rebuilt the metering head,I did check the diaphragm having released the control pin & that is all OK-as you say Tref,it is a catch 22 situation--but I haven't stripped the CPR or the Extra air regulator but did check the latter was closing.
What I haven't done so far -(mainly because I am scared of breaking the rusty looking unions) is remove the pump,filter,etc to make certain there are no blockages caused by crud.
The guy who resprayed it for him did give up trying to start it saying it kept flooding & hydro-locking-which is when I discovered that the control pin was jammed fully open.Have also checked the firing order & that's OK.
Despite a constantly recharged battery it soon loses the vitality to spin the engine quick enough & for long enough to allow fiddling!Then I run out of time as need to get back home to keep my wife from getting too uptight about all the time I keep spending elsewhere
What I haven't done so far -(mainly because I am scared of breaking the rusty looking unions) is remove the pump,filter,etc to make certain there are no blockages caused by crud.
The guy who resprayed it for him did give up trying to start it saying it kept flooding & hydro-locking-which is when I discovered that the control pin was jammed fully open.Have also checked the firing order & that's OK.
Despite a constantly recharged battery it soon loses the vitality to spin the engine quick enough & for long enough to allow fiddling!Then I run out of time as need to get back home to keep my wife from getting too uptight about all the time I keep spending elsewhere
vitesse
Active member
Made some progress today having decided to concentrate on fuel.Up to now I have totally believed my friend when he said there was plenty of fuel in the tank-when I turned up today the 1st thing he did was to add a gallon of petrol to the tank when I asked him was he sure there was plenty in the tank.
Checked the instruments ( hadn't bothered before because normally my head's in the engine bay,he turns the key)--fuel gauge below empty-low fuel lamp on--so popped out 1 injector-removed air filter-removed relay & fitted my switched & fused remote control lead to terminals 30 & 87-ignition on ,switch closed--pump running & plenty of pumped air from the injector--QED-not enough fuel despite the gallon added.
When previously I was checking fuel flow there must have been just enough to allow the pump to to pick up fuel but not much more.
So friend has been told to get 4 gallons in there before I try again to start it,Today tried once on the key & got an indication of combustion so encouragement![&o]
Checked the instruments ( hadn't bothered before because normally my head's in the engine bay,he turns the key)--fuel gauge below empty-low fuel lamp on--so popped out 1 injector-removed air filter-removed relay & fitted my switched & fused remote control lead to terminals 30 & 87-ignition on ,switch closed--pump running & plenty of pumped air from the injector--QED-not enough fuel despite the gallon added.
When previously I was checking fuel flow there must have been just enough to allow the pump to to pick up fuel but not much more.
So friend has been told to get 4 gallons in there before I try again to start it,Today tried once on the key & got an indication of combustion so encouragement![&o]
vincematthews
Member
Its worth checking the 50mm (approx) diameter plastic air hose that connects the two rubber ducts for vacuum leaks. I've had one collapse slightly inward on the manufacturing seam and it completely b#**ed up the starting. There two of these joins, one along each opposite side of the tube; one looked fine and the hidden one to the rear was the one that had gone.
vitesse
Active member
Well some more progress-having stripped the WRU, checked resistance which was correct cleaned the reasonable amount of crud settled on the filter & reinstalled same decided to properly check out ignition side again by setting flywheel at TDC-so far had trusted it all to be OK.
Found distributor to be miles out so removed & replaced correctly-tried to start still getting backfire & no running so this week checked plug leads which were labelled--aha-cylinders 1&2 were transposed at the distributor--last thought -really check cam timing so removed cover find & mark the tiny dot & discover camshaft timing also miles out-like 75mm from the the pointer on the cam cover.
Slackened adjuster-fitted belt correctly-advised my friend to buy a new one for fitting next time(looked like it was the original fitted 1976/7) then had to reset the distributor again & reset the points using my very handy Rotax points setter,finally rechecked the ignition static setting using a bulb between the coil & distributor.
When my friend twisted the key ,the engine started immediately with no obvious fuel leaks but unfortunately he pumped the pedal.Repeated attempts meant it started each time the same but would only run for 10 secs or so each time although it seemed to be getting longer.
Time to head home then via helping another friend using my DTI to check crankshaft endfloat on a Wolsely Wasp engine he has rebuilt for one of his friends in the MG car club.
It has seized up on them twice after having had all the crankshaft/big end bearings re-metalled.
So next time I think :
a) Check back through the fuel filter,pressure accumulators ,fuel pump & any outlet filter in the tank outlet
b)Slightly enrichen the CIS distributor setting
It maybe that the problem is still the old fuel settled in the tank bottom & may need to clear that out .However big relief that it consistently starts Just got to get it to warm up so I can use my dwell angle & CO (CO2) meters.
Found distributor to be miles out so removed & replaced correctly-tried to start still getting backfire & no running so this week checked plug leads which were labelled--aha-cylinders 1&2 were transposed at the distributor--last thought -really check cam timing so removed cover find & mark the tiny dot & discover camshaft timing also miles out-like 75mm from the the pointer on the cam cover.
Slackened adjuster-fitted belt correctly-advised my friend to buy a new one for fitting next time(looked like it was the original fitted 1976/7) then had to reset the distributor again & reset the points using my very handy Rotax points setter,finally rechecked the ignition static setting using a bulb between the coil & distributor.
When my friend twisted the key ,the engine started immediately with no obvious fuel leaks but unfortunately he pumped the pedal.Repeated attempts meant it started each time the same but would only run for 10 secs or so each time although it seemed to be getting longer.
Time to head home then via helping another friend using my DTI to check crankshaft endfloat on a Wolsely Wasp engine he has rebuilt for one of his friends in the MG car club.
It has seized up on them twice after having had all the crankshaft/big end bearings re-metalled.
So next time I think :
a) Check back through the fuel filter,pressure accumulators ,fuel pump & any outlet filter in the tank outlet
b)Slightly enrichen the CIS distributor setting
It maybe that the problem is still the old fuel settled in the tank bottom & may need to clear that out .However big relief that it consistently starts Just got to get it to warm up so I can use my dwell angle & CO (CO2) meters.
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