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It's finally here!!!

bennyboy

bennyboy

New member
Picked up my 944 turbo today! What a machine! Drove it all the way home from Enfield and I'm already smitten! That view in the driver's side door mirror must be one of the best in motoring history - gorgeous flared arch - and especially if said mirror is of the cup variety! I spent ages trying to find something wrong, but I just can't! Not anything serious anyway. Haven't had much time to run through all the paperwork yet but it's certainly putting out more than 250bhp - chap told me it's definately had a DPW put on at some stage - so it will be interesting to discover the engine spec when I can get it in to a specialist. Little detail I think I like, the 'Porsche' lettering in the rear spoiler has been colour coded red! Goes quite well with the red calipers etc... and I think I'll get some red tinted rear lights too.

Couple of questions guys...(as usual for me?!)...

1. What should the oil gauge be reading? At idle and at speed? The 'engine oil' light came on but I checked it and there's plenty there?
2. The air con doesn't work - I knew that when I bought it - but even so, I'm sure there's more heat coming into the cabin than should be. Today (quite warm) I simply couldn't drive the car without the windows and sunroof open! I've played with all the heating controls and there doesn't appear to be any coming through the vents (but when it does it's hot), so I reckon it must be coming through the floor and bulkhead. Any ideas a) why I can't get cool air through the vents and b) to reduce the amount of heat coming through the floor?

Finally, I've mentioned previously that the car has some decent ICE. I'm actually pretty impressed with it all, except the door builds. The boot build is boxed and nicely trimmed in carpet, there's definately a sub and autochanger in there and I'll soon find out what else. Would anybody be interested in this for their car because I'm not a sound man...I want lightweight! Let me know.

Cheers, Ben.
 
Sounds great Benny, I'm sure you're going to have a ball [:)]

Oil pressure when cold -

at idle should be around 5 bar
at speed should be around 5 bar

Oil pressure when hot -

at idle should be around 3 bar
at speed should be around 4-5 bar

The constant heat from the vent probably means that a plastic clip has broken on the heater rods that causes the flap to stay fully open for heat. If you open the glovebox and remove the velour interior (5 screws IIRC) you will see the rods to the RH side of the glovebox. Make sure you pull the fuse for the glovebox light or it will probably blow while your messing around.

Full instructions can be found in the Garage Shop Manul section of www.clarks-garage.com it's under 'Heater Malfunctions'
 
BB
Good to hear you're pleased with the new motor.
Re your questions, - I have run one for a few years, there are folk on the forum who will know better than me but:

1. Don't ignore the Oil Light. It works off Oil pressure and while the sump may be full if there is no pressure the bearings will be damaged and the engine wrecked very quickly.

2a. My suspicion is the level is low and the "Engine Oil" message in the lower section of the left Dial is on. That is a sump Level sensor message. The ! red light comes on with it. These will be on at startup and stay on. It will reset automatically when you refill the Oil Level.

2b. Alternatively, if the Oil Pressure is too low, the red light at the low end of the scale on the Oil Pressure guage will come on. You see it (and all dash lights) with the ignition on prior to start-up.

3. A warm engine should show 4 bar pressure above 1800 rpm (approx). At tickover 860rpm, it should be 2 bar. They can tick over at 20% less than 860 and the pressure drops accordingly. The readings will vary according to Oil spec and engine wear. At some point below that the Oil light will come on, but not sure what the threshold is.

4. The warm air in the cabin could be a small plastic clip on the side of the heater control behind the dash. The good news is it costs about 15p and is not too hard to find. Remove the glovebox and its on a 3mm diameter Rod with a coarse threaded end. The bit to be careful of is, if you go looking and its not broken, - if you touch it it will break. It made of Nylon, and becomes brittle with time. Thats where I would start, if not that, then check the Vac operated valve at the rear of the engine block is operating when you select Hot & changes back when you select Cold.
The whole system is vacuum operated and a bit too complicated for its own good, but don't be afraid of it. I found loads of help on here.

What is your engine Water temp reading? (the guages are a bit hit and miss, they seem to run at all sorts of levels depending on the 'stat, but it should be consistent, and ideally with the needle on or below the horizontal)

My car does get warm around the tunnel at low speed on a hot day - its normal, but you need some pointers if yours is getting too hot. Are all the engine covers below in place? I will keep quiet as I'm not sure what to suggest on this point. It may be nothing.

George

944T

 
Good stuff Ben sounds great and welcome to the club. I think Paul has covered your queries but regarding your A/C the best thinkg to do is to take it to an A/C specialist and they can perform a vacuum test and recharge the system. They will also convert to R34A if it hasn't already been done. Last time I had a recharge it cost me about £60 and when I had the R34A converstion it cost me about another £50 or so on top.

You can also have a flourescent dye added to the gas so if you do have a leak (the leak check is not 100% foolproof) then they can track it with a UV light. The A/C systems on these cars are pretty reliable so there is a good chance that all it needs is a regas. Mine hadn't been used for about three years when I bought the car but worked fine after a regas.

Another note on the A/C is that it works best when used regularly. The good news is that it is actually a climate control system so I just leave mine on all the time. I've not noticed a major reduction in mpg, certainly not enough to offsett the cost of the increased frequency of the regas which could be two or more a year (mine was 2 last year when I only used the system very infrequently) but since i've had the system chugging away all the time it's lasted 11 months and still blasts out nice chilly air.
 
Call your local Porsche dealer and get them to mail you the clip. There is a guide and picture here: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/hvac-01.htm but please get them to double check the part number as it may be different for RHD cars. I can't seem to find my invoice with my part number from years ago [&:]

The fuse is in the fusebox under the bonnet on the passenger side. There should be a list of each fuse and what it does on the underside of the cover
 
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