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Jacking Points

sawood12

sawood12

New member
Immediately behind each front wheel arch there appears to be a jacking point sticking out of each sill. Is it safe to use axel stands on these points to support the front of the car?

I have used them as secondary points with axel stands but always using the jack as the main weight bearing support but I now want to raise the front end completely and support on both sides on axel stands.

Cheers
 
Yes they look like donuts (dirty, greasy donuts anyway).

Jack up the passenger side first then lower the donut onto an axle stand. Then do the same on the drivers side. If you leave all the weight on the drivers side first it 'can' deform the floor pan under the accelerator, which then causes wierd decelleration problems [:eek:]

It's an easy fix tho - thick towel in drivers footwell and hit the floor with a lump hammer. I kid you not [:-]
 
ORIGINAL: Diver944
It's an easy fix tho - thick towel in drivers footwell and hit the floor with a lump hammer. I kid you not [:-]
Click to expand...

Yep, been there, done that as, after jacking the car the throttle would stick open. This could have been very interesting but I happened to check it before going out - be careful though as my ham fisted brother managed to hit the accelerator pedal and snap it [:'(] luckily they're only about a tenner [:D]
 
That's very strange. I've just started to search the forums for problems with sticky throttle cable. It seems to go to the floor in jumps rarther than smoothly.
This has just started happening since I changed my alloys from Teledials to 996 17's and used the round jacking points behind the wheel with a trolley jack.
Could this be the same thing? Has the chassis bent? What can I check for?

I'm worried now.

Regards
Daz.
 
All sounds very dodgy....

I am impressed that you linked your sticky throttle to jacking the car up.........wow!

Is there anywhere else.....more solid?

Whats the best place for the trolley jack?

What about the back?

........OOps starting to panic!!!

Mike
 
Well, I bet that's not in the Porsche workshop manual for a sticking throttle!
As above. I've just given the floor a thump with a hammer, just to the right of the pedal and it's cured....

Worrying that there's no long term creasing, difficult to see.

I've just checked the handbook and these are NOT jacking points.
Should have checked more thouroughly.

Daz.
 
It's the castor mounts i'm trying to get at. Finally getting round to replacing with 968 castor mounts (I'm assuming you have to support the car so both front wheels are off the groung to take out any ARB forces on the lower wishbone).

The workshop manual shows that on 4 point lifts you get in garages to place the pads on the structure in-board of the donut things. Don't know if this structure is strong enough to support one axel stand while you jack up the other side though, especially since my axel stands dont have a large circular pad to spread the load.

But it sounds like plenty of people have used these donut features with great success so I might just risk it.
 
I changed my castor mounts using the std Jack.

Via the ARB, load on the suspension at the oposing side holds the suspension up at the side you are working on.

Made it very easy to swap them over. No idea how hard it woul dbe otherwise, but I'm guessing the arm would try to drop.
 
Well that makes it even easer then if I can get away with jacking up one side at a time. Should be a doddle if I can get the bolts off with minimal of trouble. Lot's of WD40 on them at the moment.

Cheers.
 
Mine sits on the donuts on axle stands several times a year and as long as you rest it on passenger side first its not a problem.

I should point out the 'jacking' point is midway along the cill right under that diamond shaped indicator in the bubbly paint. Jack it up under the diamond, place axle stand under the donut, and lower. Repeat on the other side.

I'm fairly sure when I did my caster mounts I jacked one side up at a time anyway. The wishbone moves slightly but can be held in position by hand as you attach the new caster mount.
 
Hi Steve. Do a quick search of the forum, there was quite a lengthy post about jacking points only a few weeks ago

Cheers
Andy
 
Steve

I had a similar situation over the winter whilst dropping the rear axle - makes for difficulties !

With regard to actually jacking i.e. lifting the car, I always use the central jacking point in the middle of the sill that sits under the small diamond or arrow stamped into the sill. This is a good safe point to jack the car up and get it up in the air, albeit only one side at a time.

I then usually put axle stands under the rear axle trailing arm (solid ali) just to the rear of where it mounts into the body through the out bushes. Another alternative is directly under the trailing arms where the rear shocker lower mount is. This does mean that the car is 'sprung' and sitting on it's suspension.

For the front, my preferred location is directly on the chasis rail about 3" backward from where the rear track control arm mounts (castor) are. Another option is to remove the undertray and use the front cross member. The only drawback about this option is width or stability of the base.

Hope this helps,

Chris
 

I agree with Chris, but I would only use the rear shock mount for very quick jobs, as because its "sprung" getting in to the car and similar loading can put "bouncing" loads on the stands which can get them to slip sometimes.
Would certainly go for solid mounts for any length of time.
What jobs are to be done?
 
I agree with Chris, but I would only use the rear shock mount for very quick jobs, as because its "sprung" getting in to the car and similar loading can put "bouncing" loads on the stands which can get them to slip sometimes.
Would certainly go for solid mounts for any length of time.
What jobs are to be done?
Click to expand...

Sending the wheels away for refurb so have a couple of weeks without them. Am changing discs/pads, putting coilovers on, brake lines, braided hoses, dropping gearbox.
 
Steve

I assume you're dropping the gearbox so you can fit new rear brake hoses ? I would consider doing the fuel lines as well if this is the case, FYI, you'll also have to drop the rear axle.

Chris
 
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